Argentina’s capital is renowned for its shopping. Here visitors can find high-quality artisanal goods like jewelry and mate gourds. Leatherwork (piel) is also an ingrained part of the culture, and clothes, bags and shoes represent a long gaucho tradition of craftsmanship with some modern Italian flare thrown in for good measure. Where fashion and retail are concerned, comparing Buenos Aires to Milan and Paris isn’t a huge stretch, and despite inflation and rising prices, travelers can still find deals on clothes to beat the prices of these European fashion meccas.
Browsing in Palermo Soho
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
VAT
Visitors should note that, because Argentina is a closed economy, high import taxes mean all electronics are sold at exorbitant prices. So while it’s fine to do your clothes shopping in the city, you should purchase any new cameras and electronic devices before departing. Another thing to consider is that Argentina imposes a national sales tax, or VAT (Value Added Tax) of 21 percent on all products. It is possible to get a VAT refund upon exiting the country, but only if you made your purchases at shops displaying a Global Blue Tax Free sign. Many travelers don’t take advantage of the refund because it’s often little reward for much work. However, those who are interested can learn more at www.globalblue.com.
Palermo Soho boutique
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
Opening times
Buenos Aires commerce generally operates on a 9am−5pm schedule, with shopping malls and larger establishments staying open later and at weekends. However, some smaller stores (especially those in quieter neighborhoods) may observe the siesta, and close from around 1−3pm; and it’s not uncommon for these smaller businesses to close on Sunday and Monday. Also check if your shopping day falls on a national holiday (of which Argentina has many) as most establishments will be closed.
Where to Buy
Microcentro
Anyone looking for premium leatherwork and handicrafts should head straight to Microcentro. The city center is home to a number of retailers selling high quality leather goods, particularly on Calle Florida. Galeriás Pacifico (www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar), located at Calle Florida and Avenida Córdoba, is one of the largest and most upscale shopping malls in the city. Aside from leather goods, shoppers in this neighborhood can find traditional gaucho handicrafts such as silver rings, woven bracelets, hunting bags, artisanal mate gourds, and of course the iconic bombachas, those cotton horse-riding pants perfect for galloping across the Pampas.
Between Microcentro and barrio Recoleta visitors will find Avenida Santa Fe, a major east-west thoroughfare cutting through the north of Buenos Aires. Walking under the towering Baroque facades towards Palermo, shoppers have their pick of everything from designer outlets to smaller boutiques, from skate shops to hip clothing retailers.
Signs for sale at San Telmo’s Sunday flea market
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
Palermo Viejo/Soho
But it’s the tree-lined cobbled streets of Palermo Viejo (the neighborhood’s old town), also known as Palermo Soho (between calles El Salvador and Niceto Vega), that attract shopaholics en masse. It’s the preferred neighborhood of young designers who want to deliver locally made haute fashion to the masses, thus skirting the import taxes retailers normally would incur by importing from Europe. Highlights include Lucila Iotti (www.lucilaiotti.com) and its fashionable shoes, the concept boutique Casa Cavia (www.casacavia.com), which features a bookstore/perfumery, and Dubié (www.dubie.com), from local designer Agustina Dubié who is known for her elegant yet deconstructed clothes.
San Telmo
Shoppers with limited time though should concentrate their efforts on San Telmo. Here you’ll not only find some trendy boutiques (like Pablo Ramírez, one of the country’s most famous clothing designers), but this is also antiques heaven and Gil (www.gilantiguedades.com.ar) here is a veritable treasure trove of elegant textiles, clothing, collectibles, knick-knacks and gewgaws.
There’s also the Sunday flea market, or Feria de San Telmo, which takes place in Plaza Dorrego from about 10am until 5pm and is popular with locals and tourists alike. Here row upon row of artisans peddle their wares and antiques, such as gramophones, jewelry and even marionettes. The market cuts through San Telmo down Calle Defensa, lined with myriad cafés and restaurants making this stretch the perfect place to grab a post-retail bite to eat.
Barrio Palermo’s outdoor market takes place Saturdays and Sundays in Plaza Serrano from 10am to around 8pm. It’s light on antiques but heavy on handicrafts, clothing and jewelry. It’s also great place for a weekend stroll.