7 – 18 July 2012
Shirley: To get from Seattle to Canada we opt for the two-ferry option: one ferry from Seattle to the Olympic Peninsula, and a second from the peninsula to Vancouver Island. Our buddies Ken and Carol have decided to ride to Alaska so we’re going to meet at the Port Angeles wharf on the peninsula and cross into Canada together.
On the first ferry we meet fellow GS rider Tom, a middle-aged businessman who’s heading home to Suquamish, a local First Nation community on the peninsula and Bostonian photographer Michael Warren who’s working on a book of photos of people and their favourite things. Michael’s intrigued by our journey and asks us to stop by if we get to Boston, so we can be a part of his ‘Somebodies’ collection. We’ll keep it in mind.
We’ve got time to kill before we meet Ken and Carol so Tom takes us on a tour of Suquamish, past the community longhouse with its totem looking over the water to the city of Seattle. Chief Seattle, the leader who managed to keep the peace between the indigenous people and the founders of the city of Seattle, is buried here. He’s obviously revered by his own people and admired by the descendents of the settlers in a country where there was so much violence all in the name of progress.
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It’s a glorious day for a boat ride and the ferry crossing to Canada is calm. We make travel plans with Ken and Carol for the ride to Alaska. The timing is just about perfect to get to the top of the world in good weather.
A short way into the crossing the engines slow and the haunting sound of a sax playing a hymn drifts up from the car deck. There’s a ceremony being held for a valued member of the company, their ashes scatter into water and relatives throw flowers. We can’t hear the words but it seems like a fine way to be farewelled.
A very simple border crossing, where they ask if we’re carrying firearms or bear spray (it’s illegal to bring both into Canada), then a stamp in our passport and we’re in. Ken and Carol are visiting friends and we head to Nanoose Bay where we’ll spend a few days R&R before the long, hard ride to Alaska.
It’s a mighty spot, our apartment overlooking the bay. Deer wander through the garden and we spot them grazing on the side of the road heading into the resort. There’s a kitchen so we can cook. Eating out is great but not every night.
On our first night we cook wild Chinook salmon on a BBQ at the edge of the bay. Brian follows the fishmonger’s directions and the fish is delicious — a magnificent meal cooked in perfect surroundings.
Brian: The bike needs tyres and I’m keen to try Heidenau, a more robust on road/offroad tyre than those we’ve been running. The road to the Arctic Circle will include about 1,300 kilometres of dirt and these tyres should be perfect. The local bike shop, Adrenaline Motors, has them in stock.
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We meet Ken and Carol in Vancouver Island’s Chinatown, the oldest in Canada. In the heart of Chinatown is Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in Canada. It featured in the motorcycle scene in the Mel Gibson/Goldie Hawn film Bird on a Wire, but I can’t see us fitting the big BMWs down it.
On the ride back to Nanoose Bay way we stop at Duncan, billed as the town of Totems. Yellow footprints on the footpath lead us to about 40 magnificent totems depicting eagles, loons, man, fish and whales. It’s all very impressive.
And we stop at Chemainus, the town of the murals. This was a logging community and as that industry dried up the townsfolk invited artists to paint the town, literally. It seems to be an idea that’s paid off. The murals depict life in the town over the years and we’re all drawn to the First Nation people — it’s like they are looking deep into your soul.
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Back in December we were contacted through our webpage by Vancouver Island biker Greg Neufeldt. He says he was put onto us by a twitter follower of his. Twitter? That’s something we just don’t understand, but we’re intrigued. We Google him — seems he’s worked in places like Kandahar and rode the bike for Claudio of Long Way Down fame, while he filmed a doco in the Americas. It’s a pity he can’t join us for a ride around the island tomorrow.
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Vancouver Island boasts some amazing roads and brilliant scenery. We spend a long day on the road from the east coast to the west through the forests, over the mountains, past rivers crashing over rocks and down to the sea at Tofino. Just out of Nanoose Bay there’s a cafe with goats grazing on the roof. We sail past with the promise to stop on the way home.
Cathedral Grove is home to a giant Douglas Fir tree, nine metres around the girth. It’s colossal. At Sproat Lake there are the massive Catalina flying boats converted to water tankers and used to fight forest fires. We don’t realise how big they are until we see one parked at the back of the base with a bus parked under its wing. They’re monsters.
The road takes us around a lot of good corners and I’m very impressed with the new tyres, even though there is a bit of tyre roar from the front wheel.
We end up at Wickaninnish Bay. There’s driftwood piled high on the beach with a sea mist clinging to the sand. It’s the perfect location for a murder mystery — very atmospheric.
By the time we get to Tofino the mist is clearing, revealing the most magnificent day. Some mist hangs around the valleys, the sun glistens on the water and the sky is the bluest blue. Each day we’re on the road in this western area of the Americas we see the most wonderful scenery. We’re blessed but not when it comes to seeing the goats grazing on the roof. They’re tucked away in their shelter when we get back at the end of the long day.
Shirley: Brian’s lost another filling, the second in the last couple of weeks. It’s time to visit yet another dentist. We know we’re in a first world country now. The dentist is good but there are no kisses here. It costs nearly $400 for the two fillings, and our travel insurance won’t cover it. Oh well, I think I prefer Brian to have his teeth, no matter what the cost.
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At last we get to meet Greg after months of email communication. His pleasant face beams a welcome when we meet at Adrenaline Motors. He’s a good natured and interesting bloke who’s worked for Doctors without Borders in Africa. He’s a nurse by profession and doing an electrician’s apprenticeship at the moment so when he does another posting with Doctors without Borders he can lead the mission — you need to be multi-skilled to do that.
We really enjoy our time with Greg and there’s one thing I’ll be forever grateful to him for and that’s introducing me to the chocolate Boston donuts at Tim Horton’s. This Canadian coffee chain is everywhere and I can feel a regular treat coming on.
Brian: We’re on the road again and it’s the last major dash to Alaska. On the mainland we take the Sea to Sky Highway to Whistler. The road is brilliant with the water of the Inside Passage on one side and the mountains on the other. Wow!
Whistler is manic so we don’t stay long — the road is calling. Along the highway we see our first bear warning signs, but no bears.
This is a fantastic road — sweeping curves rather than tight turns and beautiful scenery around every corner.
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We need to slow down to wait for Ken and Carol who are a day behind us so we set up camp at One Hundred Mile House on Highway 97. At dinner in the local bar we meet two Alaskan girls on BMWs. They have good local knowledge to share like the free campground at the Harley shop in Anchorage. All bikers are welcome — even BMWs. Shirl’s going to be used to camping by the end of this trip.
Shirley: Our camping gear is great. Sleeping in the tent is so comfortable. We have a cooker but not much else. Ken and Carol cook toast on their burner and are happy to share.
On the road to Prince George we see some other bikers at the Tim Horton’s. While Brian and Ken talk bikes I introduce Carol to the joys of the chocolate Boston donut. — yet another oral delight.
We turn onto the Yellowhead Highway and now the bear warning signs are joined by moose warning signs. Plenty of signs, but no bears or moose.
At Smithers we set up camp again. We’re now just one day’s ride from the finger of Alaska that runs down the western side of Canada. Not only should we see bears there, at Hyder, we should see them fishing for salmon.
The Smithers campground is run by the council. It’s right on the river and the Babine Mountains look down on us. The only drawback is the mozzies. We’ve been warned about them and the bearers of the bad news weren’t exaggerating. They’re so big they could carry you away.
But there’s plenty of firewood and we’ve got a good bottle of red. The four of us sit around the fire and talk well into the night.
Tomorrow we’ll be sleeping in Alaska.