Lao is the official national language in Laos, which, considering its modest size and population, has a remarkable linguistic diversity. Ironically, even if a foreigner makes every effort to learn the basics of Lao, he or she will still not find it easy to communicate with all the country’s inhabitants. There are numerous ethnic languages, of which many people still speak only their own. The other insurmountable cultural barrier is the ongoing poverty and lack of education.
Lao is described as a “Southwestern Tai language,” and is spoken by approximately 25 million native speakers in Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Tai languages comprise a closely related linguistic family, of which the Thai language of Thailand is the most widely spoken member. The word “Tai” is used to refer to the entire group, because “Thai” is designated as the language of Thailand.
Lack of accurate data makes it difficult to confirm the number of languages spoken in Laos—research has been limited by problems of access—but there are an estimated eighty living languages and around 120 distinct dialects. Most of the minority languages are endangered, with a few exceptions (notably Hmong and Khmu). The strongest neighboring foreign languages heard and used in Laos are Thai, Vietnamese, and Mandarin. Children watch Thai TV, absorbing the language through cartoons and commercial jingles. There are still many Lao citizens who can’t speak or write their national language, and it’s not just smaller ethnic groups but large ones like the Hmong.
The Lao alphabet, or akson Lao, is the primary script used to write the Lao language and some other minority languages in Laos. It was also used to write the Isan language in Thailand, but it was replaced by the Thai script.
There is a surprisingly small number of books published in the Lao language, for both children and adults.
The rich oral tradition of poetry and folklore among the Lao predates their written literature and is still very much alive. The earliest evidence of written literature dates from the sixteenth century. In the nineteenth century the great social and political upheavals in the region became a prominent literary theme, often expressed in Buddhist and mystical terms. Lao literature was deeply influenced by the literary tradition of the neighboring kingdom of Lan Na in present-day Thailand.
Gradually, religious schooling was replaced by secular, government-sponsored education, and traditional Lao literature declined; it was also changing due to Thai and Western influence. Maha Sila Viravong was an important scholar of traditional Lao literature and history. His three children, Pakian Viravong (pseudonym Pa Nai), Duangdeuan Viravong (Dauk Ket), and Dara Viravong (Duang Champa), are well-known Lao writers from the mid-twentieth century.
In today’s world, where spoken national languages are reinforced with standardized spelling and grammar, the writing of Lao in Latin script is confusing. There is no standard system of transliteration and the result is a mix of English and French spellings. It doesn’t help that the country itself is known as Laos as well as Lao PDR in many official “world countries” listings!
The official name of the country is Lao PDR, and in the much-used alternative of Laos the “s” of Laos can either be pronounced or not. The various versions of its name—Laos, Lao PDR, and even Pathet Lao—are confusing. In French the “s” technically remains silent, although during colonial times it was they who added the letter to pluralize Lao as a noun for the people. Now they have followed other Europeans and do pronounce the “s”!
Only “Laos” or “Lao PDR” is used as the name of the country. “Lao” is not used as a noun to refer to the country; it can be an adjective, and a noun only when it refers to the people or language. Lao people do not pronounce the “s” when saying the name of their country, or certainly not when speaking Lao. They refer to it as “Pathet Lao,” meaning “Lao Country.”
It’s worth noting that cultural groups in many Asian countries pronounce the name of their country differently. China, for example, has thirteen written languages—and not one of them pronounces “China” in the same phonetic way!
What is the best term? It is still a sensitive issue with such a diverse ethnic history and presence, and has long been debated by academics. Professor John Walsh calls the population “the Lao people.” Technically this would refer only to the Lao, the major ethnic group, where “Laotian” might mean citizens of Laos as a whole. President Obama addressed them as “the people of Laos,” indicating the entire population of a country striving to become a single nation. This will take time and, yes, the different people of Laos may gradually merge into one, but with the regrettable loss of some cherished ethnic identities and legacies along the way.
So, how easy is it for a foreigner to pick up the Lao language? One thing is sure, and that is that the Lao will really appreciate your efforts to learn a few words of their language. Even if they are mispronounced, basic greetings or the odd phrase will go down well, and may even prove an icebreaker in initial business dealings. If you get it wrong, and see them laughing, no offense is meant. Your effort shows that you are eager to understand their culture.
Like Thai and Vietnamese, Lao is a tonal language—words are differentiated not only by the vowels and consonants but also by tone. There are five different tones in Lao: flat, high, low, rising, or falling. If pronounced incorrectly, the tone changes the meaning of the word entirely. Thus the three tonal options for the word paa have entirely different meanings—fish, jungle, and aunt!
You’ll also need to get the hang of the alphabet, which has twenty-six consonants. Each consonant has a word associated with it to distinguish between a few sounds that have more than one letter, such as “s” and “h” which have two letters each. There are three “k” letters, a mixture of “k” and “g,” in fact.
Another couple of points about the alphabet are that the letter “r,” which was to be entirely eliminated in the old revolutionary system, is making a comeback, and that the sound of “ch” becomes “x,” but is pronounced as an “s.” So xang sounds like “sang,” and means elephant! It’s challenging, but worth the effort.
The Lao language is short on classic Western polite phrases. While “thank you” (kop chai) is widely used, the word for “please” (karunaa, galuna, khaluna) is very rare in everyday speech, and only really used in customer service recordings or when speaking to high-ranking government officials.
The people of Laos have a great sense of humor. The legendary trickster of Lao folklore, Xien Mieng (Xiangmiang), who constantly plays tricks on others and is not easily outwitted, is still hugely popular. He’s a fun character dating back to the eighteenth century, since when stories have been transmitted by word of mouth or written on palm leaves. Oral history and folklore are strong traditions in Laos, and children are still in thrall to the ancient characters and taboos. Royalty and the natural environment play a huge part in these stories.
Ko/go dai
It’s worth knowing that you might easily confuse two basic Lao terms for “yes” and “no,” which can often sound similar to the Western ear and cause problems in the market! “Dai” means possible, and “ko/go dai” means yes, while “bo dai” means no. When you’ve grasped a few words and can ask a question, it could be that you misunderstand the reply—is it “Yes, it’s possible” (ko/go dai) or “No, it’s not” (bo dai)?
The royal “doi” vs the proletarian “cao/tchao/jao”
Doi is the word for “yes” that was used before the Pathet Lao took over and “cao” became a norm. However, doi has now made a comeback, particularly in service industries, and one hears it a lot, even as a simple acknowledgement of someone following a conversation as they nod their head. There is a third, informal way of saying yes, which is impossible to write and sounds like a deep inhalation of air. Doi, men leo (maen leeo) is the most polite, complete answer for “Yes, it’s true.”
There are many Lao proverbs and maxims. Here are two: Khouam pha ya yarm you sai khouam sam let you thee nan, (Where there’s a will there’s a way), and Ya wai jai thang ya wang jai khon man ja jon jai to (Don’t believe people too much; it can land you in trouble!).
When it comes to jokes, acceptable topics can be quite different in Asia and the West. In Laos joking about weight is entirely acceptable; on the other hand, commenting on someone’s dark complexion might be considered an insult. In fact, girls and women in Laos would find such a comment just as upsetting as someone in the West would if they were described as fat. There are also many jokes about names and nicknames, some totally incomprehensible to Westerners. If someone is called Keo, they may be greeted with “Kin khao kap g/kuai bo?” (“Did you eat rice with banana?”) and everyone will laugh. It is apparently because of the way the same first letters sound.
The Lao are constantly exposed to Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese, as these countries are all major providers of imported products, and of course TV programs. It is said that Lao is the archaic version of Thai, with Thai having more words for the same meaning. Written Lao is also the archaic form of written Thai, so it is much easier to write. According to one expert, Lao people find it easier to speak and read Thai, although often they cannot write it themselves. Thai people can barely understand Lao, don’t like to try speaking it, and rarely read it, let alone write it.
Although French was widely used by the country’s elite and in national education and administration (along with Vietnamese, after the monarchy was abolished and the Lao PDR took over) English is ever more present, especially with the Australian and American influence in Laos. In addition, the presence of other nationalities whose first foreign language is English makes it the only language that they can all communicate in, both among themselves and with the Lao population.
According to a National University of Singapore study, the Lao government owns all the country’s newspapers and broadcast media. Khaosan Pathet Lao (KPL) is the official news agency, which supplies information to the other media institutions in compliance with government regulations, and publications must be approved by the Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism.
Internet use and content in Laos involves a degree of online censorship. Conscious of their expected role, Lao officials also monitor local and international journalists covering politically sensitive topics. Official foreign employees have to follow specific rules that prohibit the online reading or downloading of potentially “controversial” Web sites on their work devices.
With law enforcement still being a bit of a gray area, international staff and consultants tread cautiously when it comes to exposing “sensitive topics.” Even the media are reluctant to report “any illegal activity,” as there is no media law defining the rights and responsibilities of journalists. “The law was not passed because the government does not think it is the right time,” is a general thought often reported in the media. This will only change with time, and the emergence of a rules-based ethical journalism and reporting.
According to the BBC country profile, “In 2014, the government introduced strict new Internet controls, making online criticism of its policies or the ruling party a criminal offence. The new legislation also demands that Web users register with their real names when setting up social media accounts.” Thus user accounts can be blocked if any article whose content can be interpreted as disrupting “social order” is posted on social media. Difficulties may arise if official government policies are not fully endorsed, as in the celebrated case of Swiss NGO Helvetas aid worker Anne-Sophie Gindroz.
Lao TV broadcasting is relatively new, so until now Thai radio and TV have played a huge role in Laos. Apart from cartoons for the kids (some American programs on the Lao government channels are dubbed into Lao), everyone enjoys Thai game shows and soaps (in the Thai language). Many people now view content and their favorite programs online.
Foreign-language radio stations are popular, the main ones being in English and French (Radio France Internationale, or RFI). Radio Australia sometimes has intermittent frequency.
The country code for Laos is +856. Cellular phone services work well in all urban areas of Laos, although it does vary in rural locations.
It is advisable to buy a local SIM card, even if your international phone provider covers you for overseas, as local prices are often very competitive. In addition, the SIM card will cover all your Internet needs via the usual smart phone hotspot feature. You can buy Lao SIM cards easily and cheaply in many local shops, but you will need to register your personal details for security purposes before they are activated.
The main mobile telecom operators are Lao Telecom, ETL, Unitel, and Beeline, partly or fully owned by the Lao government. They all have different cover depending on the area, so if people are going somewhere remote, they tend to take two SIM cards with them.
Before mobile technology took off in Laos, everyone relied on landlines. They’re still used on a national basis, particularly in companies, where calls are technically free for workers, although there are sometimes restrictions on calls to cell phones.
Many people in Laos now have cell phones. They might have a cheap smart phone, an old hand-me-down, an ancient model, or a “copy” of a brand name phone, but, even so, for Laos, the development has been not unlike someone opening all the windows in a closed-up house. Locals thrive on their use, always tapping into free hotspots to save money. Some don’t have the charger to their phone, and need to locate one. In rural areas, they might not even have the electricity for charging—but that doesn’t stop them having cell phones!
It is not unusual to see monks speaking on their phones, and they doubtless download music and movie content just like anyone else. The combination of ancient religion and modern technology seems slightly bizarre and anachronistic, but communication is evidently important to everyone these days!
Globalization and new media trends have had a great impact on this country with such a small population among neighboring giants. Nevertheless, any activity on social media may be monitored.
Snail mail! Receiving mail can prove to be a challenge in Laos, as there is no home delivery, and in any case most houses don’t bear numbers or names. Most people arrange to receive mail at the Post Office by requesting a PO Box (where available); others use professional addresses if they have them, and some may request delivery at their consular services, particularly for important documents.
The peoples of Laos are an ethnic patchwork, whose rich and ancient cultures reflect their central geographical and historical position in Southeast Asia. Most of them are poor and live in deeply rural areas where daily life revolves around local and Buddhist customs and traditions, light years away from the official Marxism espoused by the government. Their traditional values of respect, deference to authority, social harmony, and the boh pen nyang philosophy of accepting and adapting to the situation served them well during the terrible years in which the Indochina wars affected every life.
Today this gentle, cheerful people have been catapulted into the modern era. People in Laos still speak softly and try to avoid confrontation, but there has been a shift away from reliance on advice and guidance from their elders and the religious hierarchy. Laos is now experiencing the social and economic impact of foreign enterprise and massive investment in tourism, rail links, mining, and hydropower. Together with the drive toward “national homogenization,” these present a real challenge to its traditional values and way of life. The official Laos tourism slogan promotes the country with two words: “Simply Beautiful!” Don’t wait too long.
