IN MOST GOOD KITCHENS, one of the chef’s tasks is inspecting the trash cans to make sure that nothing useful is tossed out, whether the cores of sweet bell pepper, the skin of onions, the head of a fish, or the wing tips of chicken. We can learn from the masters and get every last bit of flavor by making our own stock, one of the most satisfying tasks in the kitchen.
Every last bit of vegetable and protein contains nutrition and flavor waiting to be savored.
Many of the nutrients and much of the flavor of vegetables is contained in their cooking water, so don’t throw it out. Potatoes, corn, sweet potatoes, spinach, green beans, beets, mushrooms, squash, zucchini, cauliflower, leeks, and sweet bell peppers all taste good and will give you instant vegetable stock. The water from cooking cabbage, rutabagas, or turnips will be too strong to use for delicate soups. Save small amounts of liquid in a ziplock bag or a small freezer container until you have enough to be useful, making sure to date and label the package. This is best done with organic vegetables, as conventional vegetables may leach pesticides into the cooking water.
If you’re a meat eater, you will often have trimmings from either raw or cooked product. Turn them into homemade stock that is full of flavor with rich body. Put that roasted chicken carcass, or the bones from a roasted meat, and any juices that have dripped off into a pot, add cold water, and simmer until the remaining meat falls off the bone. After a few hours, add aromatic vegetable and tender herb trimmings and continue simmering.
• Start stock using cold water, which helps extract gelatinous collagen from meats that may be sealed in by hot water.
• Bring the stock up to a boil slowly, skimming away the fat and impurities that rise to the surface.
• Simmer the stock very gently so that small bubbles just break the surface. If it boils, it will get cloudy.
• Do not add salt to stock because often stocks are reduced. Season the soup, not the stock.
• When preparing a protein-based stock, add the meat first to the (cold) liquid and bring it to a boil. Skim off the white, and then tan, scum that rises to the surface before adding vegetables and other ingredients such as herbs and spices.
• For tough cuts, such as beef brisket or ham hock, simmer the protein for up to 24 hours before adding the vegetables, which will impart all their flavor and body to the stock after 1 to 2 hours.
• To remove the fat from a stock, strain, preferably into a stainless steel bowl, which allows the stock to cool faster. Once the fat rises to the top, remove it with a ladle or allow the stock to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate it, usually overnight, or until the fat on the surface becomes solid, so that it can be removed easily.
• All stocks freeze well if stored in an airtight container and can be kept frozen up to 3 months.
BEEF STOCK is the most challenging stock to make because it requires a good number of meaty bones, which are usually expensive, to extract enough flavor and body to make a good stock. Look for meaty rounds of beef shank, resembling giant osso buco, sometimes on special at the meat counter. Freeze until you accumulate enough to make this rich-tasting stock. French onion soup made with real homemade beef stock is like none you’ve ever had, unless you’ve eaten it at the old Les Halles market in Paris.
1. Place the beef in a large soup pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary. Stick the onion with the cloves and add to the pot.
2. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and reduce heat to a bare simmer. Leave to simmer very slowly overnight.
3. Strain, discarding the solids (beef bones are too hard for the disposal), cool, and then chill overnight (see Appendix, page 144). The next day, remove and discard the solidified white fat from the top. Freeze, if desired.
WHENEVER YOU COOK DRIED BEANS or other legumes, such as chickpeas and lentils, save the cooking liquid, which will be full of body and flavor. Use it as a base for vegetable and, of course, bean soups.
Makes about 5 quarts (6 L), serves 15 to 20
INGREDIENTS
5 pounds (2.3 kg) beef back ribs, beef shin (on the bone) cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cross sections, or other tough but flavorful cut of beef, such as brisket or chuck, preferably on the bone
1 onion, unpeeled
3 to 4 whole cloves
2 carrots
3 bay leaves
2 to 3 leeks, white and light green parts
1 teaspoon (2 g) coriander seeds
1 teaspoon (2 g) black peppercorns
SOUPMAKER’S TIP
SAVING BEEF SCRAPS:
Because beef stock is generally the most expensive stock to make, with the exception of veal or lobster stock, it is well worth the time and effort it takes to save, wrap, and freeze all beef trimmings—include some fat, but cut off any large chunks. After you accumulate enough trimmings (at least 2 to 3 pounds, or 1 to 1.5 kg), defrost the trimmings, roast at 400°F (200°C, or gas mark 6) until deep brown, and add to the stock pot. Supplement with purchased beef bones and trimmings as needed.
SAVE ROASTED CHICKEN or turkey carcasses, chicken wing tips, backbones, and other trimmings and supplement as needed with inexpensive chicken legs and thighs or backs and necks. I like to use inexpensive turkey wings to fortify this stock. With their high content of gelatin-producing collagen, they add body and a rich flavor. After cooling the stock, ladle it into plastic 1-quart (1 L) containers (or even freezer bags, sealed carefully) and freeze. Frozen stock just needs a minute or two in the microwave to melt enough so that it slides right out of the bag into a pot, ready to boil.
Makes 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16
INGREDIENTS
5 pounds (2.3 kg) mixed chicken parts (necks, backs, wings, and legs), preferably from grain-fed chickens, defrosted if frozen, rinsed and drained
1 pound (455 g) turkey wings, optional (to add extra collagen, which lends rich, slightly sticky mouthful to the stock)
1 onion, unpeeled but with any moldy or spoiled skin removed and discarded
2 carrots, peeled or carrot tops and tails (but not peelings, which will make the stock bitter)
2 ribs celery and/or celery root trimmings
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon (1.8 g) coriander seeds
1 teaspoon (2 g) fennel seeds
1 teaspoon (1.7 g) peppercorns
A small handful of tender herb trimmings (parsley, dill, tarragon, thyme)
1. In a large stockpot, combine the chicken parts (and turkey winfs, if using) with 1 gallon (4 L) cold water. Bring to a boil, skimming off and discarding the white foam impurities that rise to the surface. Continue to simmer until the foam turns light brown and skim that away as well.
2. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil again, skimming as necessary. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer and cook, partially covered, for 6 hours, or until the chicken meat falls easily off the bones. Strain through a sieve or china cap into a large, stainless steel bowl or another pot, discarding the solids.
3. In hot weather, place the strained stock into a sink full of ice mixed with water and cool for about 1 hour. In cool weather, cool at room temperature. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove and discard any fat from the surface. If desired, freeze the stock at this point.
SOUPMAKER’S TIP
ROASTED CHICKEN OR TURKEY STOCK:
Never discard the carcass of a roasted chicken or turkey. If you’re not ready to cook it at the time, simply wrap in plastic and freeze it. A roasted stock (or brown stock, as opposed to white stock in French cuisine) works best for gravies and sauces; a white stock, made from uncooked bones and trimmings, works best for soups. But there is no law (at least in America) that says you can’t mix them.
THIS SWEET, GOLDEN BROTH can be used to add flavor to soups, risotto with corn, or any recipe calling for vegetable stock. You’ll be surprised at how much flavor the bare cobs will impart to the stock, so save and freeze corncobs anytime you cut the kernels off of them. For this stock, you can also add tomato trimmings and/or basil sprigs and stems, if desired.
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 8 to 12
INGREDIENTS
12 corncobs kernels cut off (see Appendix, page 144) and reserved for another use, such as the Corn Cream Soup with Summer Vegetables, page 58)
2 teaspoons (3.4 g) black and/or white peppercorns
A handful each of parsley, thyme, and/or tarragon stems
4 bay leaves
1. Combine corncobs and remaining ingredients in a large soup pot.
2. Add about 1 gallon (4 L) cold water, or enough water to cover the cobs by about 3 inches (7.5 cm).
3. Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary. Reduce the heat to a slow simmer and cook 1 hour or until the broth is full of corn flavor.
4. Pick out the cobs using tongs, a cook’s fork, or slotted spoon and discard.
5. Strain the remainder of the stock. Discard the solids in a trash bag rather than the garbage disposal.
6. Pour the strained stock into smaller containers but always leave the last 1/2 cup (120 ml) or so of liquid behind and discard it, as this contains the dregs—the scum, or impurities—which sink to the bottom.
7. Cool and then refrigerate or divide into quart (liter) or other containers and freeze until ready to use, up to 3 months. (Be sure to label and date the containers; you know what’s in those containers now but likely won’t in 2 months when they’re buried in the depths of the freezer.)
USE EITHER SMOKED PORK BONES, including inexpensive but meaty and flavorful neck bones, or smoked turkey wings or legs to make this rich-tasting, smoky stock perfectly suited to hearty bean soups. Look for pork neck bones in markets that cater to a Southern and/or African American clientele for the best smoky stock ever. Smoked turkey legs, neck bones, wings, or tails all work well.
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16
INGREDIENTS
5 pounds (2.3 kg) smoked pork bones (or smoked turkey wings and/or legs)
1 large unpeeled onion, cut into rough chunks
3 to 4 carrots, cut into rough chunks
3 to 4 ribs celery, cut into rough slices
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1. Place all the ingredients into a large soup or stock pot. Add 5 quarts (5 L) cold water—1 quart (1 L) for every pound of bones. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a bare simmer, skimming to remove any white foam that rises to the top. Simmer about 6 hours, or until the bones are soft enough to fall apart completely.
2. Cool slightly and then strain, discarding the solids. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove and discard any solid fat congealed on the top, and then use or freeze.
IF YOU’RE A SHRIMP LOVER, be sure to save all the shells when peeling shrimp. Freeze in a tightly sealed container or ziplock freezer bag. When you have accumulated at least 3 quarts (3 L), rinse under cold water and use to make this shrimp stock. (The shells from other crustaceans such as lobster and crayfish may be combined with the shrimp shells.)
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16
INGREDIENTS
3 quarts (3 L) shrimp shells
1 cup (235 ml) dry white vermouth
1 tablespoon (6 g) pickling spice
1 tablespoon (5 g) coriander seeds
1 tablespoon (5.8 g) fennel seeds
4 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon (2 g) crushed black pepper
2 lemons, cut in half
In a large pot, combine the shrimp shells, 1 gallon (4 L) cold water, the vermouth, pickling spice, coriander and fennel seeds, bay leaves, thyme, pepper, the juice squeezed from the lemons, and the lemon halves. Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary, and then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and cool (see Appendix, page 144). You may freeze any extra stock once it reaches room temperature.
FISH STOCK IS QUICK AND EASY to make; it’s ready in about 1 hour. The only challenge is getting good, sweet, briny-smelling fish “frames”: skeletons left after removing the fillets; heads, rich in flavor and gelatin (but remove the bitter tasting sharp gills either with a pair of pliers or with your hands wrapped in a towel, or ask the fishmonger to remove them); or simply use fish trimmings. Make friends with your fishmonger; he or she will usually give you the bones for free and may even clean them if you ask nicely (and buy fish regularly). Use the stock for the New England–Style Clam Chowder (page 128), the Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill (page 126), the Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles (page 124), and others.
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16
INGREDIENTS
5 pounds (2.3 kg) fish bones (clean and sweet-smelling)
2 cups (473 ml) dry white wine (substitute or combine with dry white vermouth)
2 ribs celery
1 onion peeled and cut into large pieces
2–3 sprigs fresh thyme, dill, or tarragon
1 bay leaf
10 crushed peppercorns
1 lemon, cut in half
1. Rinse the fish bones and heads in cold water. Place them in a large stock pot with the remaining ingredients. Add 1 gallon (4 L) of cold water and bring to a boil. Skim as necessary and reduce the heat to a bare simmer. Cook slowly for 35 to 40 minutes.
2. Strain the liquid and chill, removing any solidified fat (see Appendix, page 144). The stock called fumet in French, will not keep beyond 3 to 5 days.
3. Place in a tightly sealed container and freeze for up to 1 month, defrosting when needed.
SOUPMAKER’S TIP
DIFFERENT FISH MAKE DIFFERENT STOCKS:
One of the subtleties of fish cookery is that different fish make different stocks. Flat fish such as flounder and halibut make the gelatinous stocks, rich in body with delicate flavor. Red Snapper makes a superb light, clear, flavorful stock. Oily fish such as salmon or bluefish are generally too strong in flavor for stock, though salmon stock may be used as the base for a salmon chowder such as the Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill on page 126.
USE THIS STOCK WHEN you want an earthy mushroom flavor, or use as an alternative vegetarian stock when you want a heartier, more robust flavor. It is perfect for a vegetarian version of mushroom soup (see page 66). Save any mushroom trimmings and stems in the freezer to use here. Shiitake stems are especially full of flavor and too tough and woody to use easily for other purposes. If using portobello stems, cut away and discard the lower portion, which often contains bits of mushroom-growing soil. In addition, use limited quantities of portobello stems, as these will yield a very dark stock.
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16
INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup (5 g) dried porcini mushroom (or dried shiitakes)
3 pounds (1.4 kg) sliced mushrooms or mushroom trimmings
1 cup (235 ml) dry white vermouth or white wine
1 tablespoon (5.8 g) fennel seed
1 teaspoon (1.7 g) black peppercorns
5 to 6 sprigs thyme, or substitute 1 teaspoon (1 g) dried thyme
4 bay leaves
1. Reconstitute the dried porcini mushrooms using 2 cups (475 ml) of water (see “Using Dried Porcini Mushrooms,” page 68).
2. In a large soup pot, combine the soaked porcini, strained mushroom liquor, mushrooms, vermouth, fennel seeds, peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaves. Cover with 1 gallon (4 L) of water and bring to a boil, skimming as necessary. Simmer about 2 hours
3. Strain out the solids, pressing well to extract all the liquid, and cool.
THERE IS NO ONE RECIPE for making vegetable stock, but this one is a good basic. A vegetable stock will never have the rich body of one made with meat because the vegetables do not contain collagen. For a vegetable substitute, use the liquid drained from cooking chickpeas, or drained from a can of chickpeas. It is particularly rich in soluble fiber, or pectin, which mimics the body of meat-based stocks. Vegetable stock is rather perishable, so use or freeze it within 3 days.
Makes about 3 quarts (3 L)
3 quarts, about 6 pounds (2.7 kg) assorted vegetable trimmings including any or all of the following:
Asparagus |
Use any trimmings, including peelings. |
Bay leaves |
Add 3 to 4 sweet, mild Mediterranean bay laurel leaves; avoid California bay, which is acrid and overly strong. |
Beets |
Use 1 red beet for stock that will benefit from rosy color, such as stock to be used for tomato or red lentil soup. Use 1 golden beet for any stock to impart sweet flavor and gold color. |
Black peppercorns and coriander seeds |
Add about 1 tablespoon (5 g) each; fennel seed is another good addition. |
Carrots |
Use the tips and root ends. Do not use peels, which are too bitter. |
Celery |
Use the tips, trimmings, and leaves; don’t overdo the celery leaves or the stock will be bitter. |
Celery root |
Soak parings in cold water to remove any dirt among the rootlets. Adds fantastic flavor. |
Corncobs |
These can successfully be frozen and add lots of sweet corn flavor. |
Fennel |
Use light-colored stalks, root trimmings, and tough outer layer; keep the darker green stalks for another use (such as chopped fine, and then processed and mixed into tuna or salmon salad or cakes). |
Green beans |
Use the tips and trimmings. |
Mushrooms |
Stems from shiitakes, cremini, and portobellos are especially flavorful. Avoid using dark open mushroom caps, especially those of portobellos, which will dye the stock an unpleasant color. |
Pea pods |
Full of sweet flavor, they’re used traditionally to make Venetian risi e bisi (soupy rice and peas). |
Potatoes |
Use the trimmings and a few peelings, especially if using thin-skinned potatoes. |
Scallions |
Use the white root ends, not the green tips. |
Squash |
Use the trimmings and parings from hard squash such as butternut or calabaza. |
Sweet potato |
Trimmings from white and/or yellow sweet potatoes (also known as yams) add sweet flavor and golden color to vegetable stock. |
Sweet red, yellow, or orange bell pepper |
Use the trimmings and stems, including seed portion in the center. |
Tender herb trimmings and stems |
Use herbs such as parsley, thyme, basil, marjoram, chives, lovage, tarragon, chervil, and dill. Strong, resinous herbs such as rosemary, oregano, savory, and sage are too strong for stock. |
Tomatoes |
Use the trimmings, cores, seeds, and skins of plum tomatoes. (I don’t peel round tomatoes because their thin skins disappear when cooked.) |
Yellow or white onion |
Use peels and trimmings. Onions with several layers of yellow skin will impart a dark golden color to your stock, so keep these for darker roasted chicken or beef stock, and use light-colored onion skins for light stocks such as fish or chicken. |
Zucchini and/or yellow squash |
All trimmings work well in vegetable stock, imparting light vegetable flavor. |
* Do not use red cabbage and red onions for stock (these will bleed an unpleasant dark gray color). Also, do not use dark green vegetables such as artichoke trimmings, green scallion tops, and the outer layers of leeks (these will be overly dark in color and will make for a slightly bitter stock). Dark onion skin from older onions will darken vegetable stock too much. Use green herbs (trimmings and/or stems) in smaller quantities—their flavor is good but too much will yield a dark greenish stock from the chlorophyll they contain.
* Don’t put stringy stock vegetables into the disposal (especially celery, herb stems, and fennel stalks), as they will tend to burn out the motor. You may pick those out and grind the remainder. Chicken bones, other than the large leg bones, will usually grind successfully in the disposal, as will smaller fish bones.
* Freeze trimmings; ideally, use a vacuum-seal method, which is the best way to prevent freezer burn. If that is not possible, place in a plastic ziplock bag and squeeze out as much air as possible. Before using, dump frozen trimmings into a large bowl of water and rinse to remove freezer frost, which carries unpleasant odors.
1. Combine all the vegetable trimmings in a large stockpot and cover with about 1 gallon (4 L) of cold water.
2. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and skim as necessary.
3. Simmer for 1 hour or until the vegetables are quite soft.
4. Strain into a large, deep bowl and cool.
5. The finished vegetable stock should be clear with a light golden color, not cloudy or greenish. Transfer to smaller containers for freezing, leaving the dregs that fall to the bottom behind. You may freeze the stock once it reaches room temperature.
See Appendix, page 144.
COURT BOUILLON, literally “short [cooking] broth,” compared with a rich and complex slow-cooked stock. Rather than the gelatin-rich bones used to make most traditional stocks, court bouillon is usually made with acidic ingredients such as lemon juice, wine, or vinegar to help extract flavors from the vegetable aromatics in the broth, and it is ready in about 1 hour. Court bouillon is often used to poach seafood. The strained liquid can then be used as seafood stock for seafood stews and chowders. Unlike stock, salt is added to court bouillon, because it is not usually reduced, which would concentrate the liquid and make it overly salty.
In a large pot, combine the water, wine, pickling spice, red pepper flakes, salt, the juice squeezed from the lemons and the lemon halves, the onion, celery, garlic, peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook 30 minutes; then strain, discarding the solids. Use immediately or cool and chill in the refrigerator for up to 4 days before using. If desired, freeze for up to 1 month before using.
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16
INGREDIENTS
1 gallon (4 L) cold water
2 cups (473 ml) dry white wine or dry white vermouth
2 tablespoons (12 g) pickling spice
1 tablespoon (3.6 g) hot red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 lemons, cut in half
1 onion, chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 teaspoon (1.7 g) black peppercorns
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
