HTH_VA-27

Start: Parking area near the Discovery Center

Distance: 3.4-mile figure eight with spur

Hiking time: 2–2.5 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Trail surface: Natural-surface path

Best season: Winter for viewing earthen fortifications

Other trail users: None

Canine compatibility: Leashed dogs permitted

Land status: Newport News city park

Fees and permits: None

Schedule: Open sunrise–sunset year-round

Maps: Newport News Park; USGS Yorktown

Trail contact: Newport News Park, 13560 Jefferson Ave., Newport News, VA 23603; (757) 886-7912; nnparks.com

Finding the trailhead: From exit 250B on I-64 east of Williamsburg and west of Norfolk, exit onto Jefferson Avenue, VA 143 west, turning left. Head northwest to immediately reach Fort Eustis Boulevard and a traffic light. Keep straight on Jefferson Avenue and follow it for 0.3 mile to turn right into the park. Follow Constitution Way 0.8 mile to the Discovery Center on your right. The hike starts on the left side of Constitution Way a little beyond the Discovery Center. Trailhead GPS: N37 10.966' / W76 32.214'

The Hike

In spring 1862 the long peninsula divided by the James River on the south and the York River on the north was the point where the Union army chose to advance on the Confederate capital of Richmond. Realizing this, the Confederates set up three strategic defense lines, using the swamps and streams of the peninsula to enhance their defensive positions and slow the Union advance. The Battle of Dam No. 1 took place along the second Confederate defense line of the peninsula. Here, the Warwick River was dammed to make crossing its marsh even more difficult for the North. The Confederates were simply trying to buy time to enhance the defenses of Richmond before the Yankees moved toward the Confederate capital.

Despite the Confederate defenses, Union General George B. McClellan decided to test the strength of this defense line by firing shells and mortars on the Southern men and their positions. After finding what he thought was a weak spot in the defense lines, McClellan decided to test their strength.

Thus set the stage for this battle that took place on the morning of April 16, 1862. It was truly the North versus the South in this clash, pitting Vermonters against North Carolina, Georgia, and Louisiana regiments. The Vermonters forded the Warwick River, what is now the Lee Hall Reservoir (the lake at Newport News Park), and attacked the Rebels. The Southerners were initially pushed back but then reorganized. The Vermont Legion, low on dry ammunition, was penned with the water to their back and snipers in front and suffered heavy casualties. The first part of the hike actually visits this area, and you can see the Confederate earthworks from which they took down the Union men. The Vermonters eventually withdrew back across the water.

A few weeks later the Confederates abandoned this defense line, having gained time to reinforce Richmond. Battles continued up the peninsula after this. Since that time, the actual dam built by the Confederates has been inundated, though the hike starts by crossing a wooden bridge over the site of Dam No. 1. As you head up along the reservoir, an incredible number of hand-dug earthworks stretch along the trails.

After visiting the main battle area on the Twin Forts Loop, the hike traces the White Oak Trail, an interpretive path with an accompanying downloadable brochure via the website provided above. Wander through hickory-oak woods, crossing occasional creeks. Views of the 360-acre lake are numerous and inspiring, especially on the last half of the loop. Another highlight is crossing Beaver Dam Creek, a moving marshy wetland, on a long boardwalk. Eventually you will make your way back to the bridge at the Dam No. 1 site and complete the hike. Displays about the battle are located inside the Discovery Center.

Miles and Directions

0.0Start by picking up the White Oak Trail at the Dam No. 1 Bridge by the lake below the Discovery Center. Note the monuments to the Vermonters who died here. Walk across the wooden footbridge, gaining views up and down Lee Hall Reservoir, a storage facility for Newport News drinking water.

0.1Return to land on the north side of the reservoir. Reach a trail intersection and the first of many earthworks. Turn left on the Twin Forts Loop, keeping the reservoir to your left. Interpretive information details the Battle of Dam No. 1. Leave the lake among hickories and oaks.

0.5Reach a four-way intersection. Turn left here toward a lake overlook. A wooden deck opens onto the water and the main site where significant fighting took place. Backtrack to the four-way intersection, then keep straight, continuing the Twin Forts Loop. View extremely deep earthworks.

1.1Return to the intersection by the wooden bridge after completing the Twin Forts Loop. Turn left here, rejoining the White Oak Trail as it begins to circle around the east end of the reservoir. More earthworks and interpretive information is scattered along the path, which is heavy with holly trees. Sluggish wet-weather drainages divide low hills.

1.3Stay straight after meeting the Sycamore Creek Trail.

1.4 Come to a deck and elevated overlook of a marsh. Turn into the Sycamore Creek Valley, away from the reservoir.

1.6Bridge Sycamore Creek on a long wooden span. These rolling woods represent the area as it likely looked back in the Civil War days.

1.9Bridge Greenbrier Creek. It is named after the prickly green vine that will scratch hiker’s legs. The White Oak Trail turns south.

2.1Reach a trail junction. Here, the Wynns Mill trail leaves left and the Swamp Fire Trail is visible a short ways from the intersection. If you want to extend your loop by about a mile, take the Wynns Mill trail, otherwise continue straight on the White Oak Trail.

2.2Intersect the end of the Swamp Fire Trail. Stay straight on the White Oak Trail, passing more earthworks.

2.4The other end of the Wynns Mill Loop comes in on your left. Stay right with the White Oak Trail as it begins a long boardwalk crossing a wooded swamp. A resting bench on the crossing is an ideal opportunity for natural repose. Pass a second overlook atop the moving part of the Beaver Dam Creek below. Beavers are active here and you can sometimes see their dams backing up the creek. Listen for the sound of water spilling over a beaver dam.

2.5End the long bridge and reach land. Come to more earthworks. Begin hiking southbound along the east shore of the reservoir. An abundance of pawpaw trees thicken the forest understory.

2.8Turn right to take the spur trail to a swamp view point. Here, a resting bench overlooks a wooded wetland with open water in the distance. Resume the main loop. The open green turf of the Newport News Park golf course can be seen through the woods.

3.1A spur trail leads left a short distance to Constitution Way. Ahead pass another overlook and a boardwalk. On the water you may see not only waterfowl but also anglers vying for bass, crappie, perch, and catfish, as well as canoers and kayakers plying the still waters.

3.4Arrive back at the wooden bridge over the lake and the point where you started ending the hike.