Crystal River, Florida
Journal Entry
August 16, 2008
Ah, Florida—land of endless sunshine; oppressive, mind-numbing humidity; insects the size of small dogs; gigantic, exotic snakes that eat small dogs; a popular religion that involves some sort of a rodent deity; and early-bird specials where restaurateurs serve absurdly large meal portions for absurdly low prices, at a time absurdly too early for dinner. Oh, and they also have Crystal River Archaeological State Park.
Designated a national historic landmark, Crystal River is a large and impressive mound site with a major truncated pyramid of earth and shell and five subsidiary mounds. Crystal River is by far the most impressive of the mound sites in Florida. The people of Crystal River relied on the rich Gulf Coast habitat in which their village was located.
What You Will See
The Crystal River site has about the most beautiful setting of any of the mound sites we are visiting during our odyssey. It’s located on the Gulf Coast of Florida, where the ocean is achingly blue and the sky is even bluer. As you walk around the site, you will see one very tall and impressive platform mound. Called First Temple Mound, it stands just shy of 30 feet high; you can climb a wooden stairway to its apex to get a nice view of the site and of the aquamarine water of Crystal River (Figure 19). Radiocarbon dating suggests that construction of this mound began in about AD 600. Population peaked in the area around AD 1000, and that likely marks the height of Crystal River’s use as a ceremonial center for the Indians living along Florida’s central Gulf Coast. As many as 1,000 people were buried at Crystal River. Many of the deceased were interred with finely made objects of ceramic and shell. Some were buried with copper jewelry including earrings; the copper to make this jewelry originated in Michigan, indicating the far-reaching nature of mound builder trade during this period.
Following the short trail around the site, you’ll see five additional mounds, lots of Spanish moss, and, at least when I was there, some of the biggest grasshopper-looking things I’ve ever seen. They say that everything is bigger in Texas. No offense to Texans, but I doubt their bugs are bigger than those in Florida. I hope not, for the sake of Texans. Those suckers were huge. There’s a nice on-site museum with artifacts excavated at the site and a 3-D scale model of the site.
Why Is Crystal River Important?
Crystal River Mound’s location on the middle of Florida’s west coast is significant in showing the vast geographic extent of mound builder societies. From the mountains of North Carolina to the prairies of Oklahoma, from as far north as Wisconsin to as far south as Florida, up and down the major rivers of the American Midwest and Southeast and here at Crystal River along the Gulf Coast, Native Americans developed complex agricultural societies capable of producing monumental earthen pyramids, conducting long-distance trade, and supporting a powerful noble class.
Okay, you’ve heard me say that before about other mound builder sites. What makes Crystal River different and worth a visit beyond the obvious beauty of its Floridian Gulf Coast setting? It’s the presence at the site of two upright stones, at least one of which has an incised image of a person (Figure 20). These artifacts are unique among mound builder sites and are reminiscent of the stelae of the Maya, the great civilization centered in eastern Mexico, Guatemala, and Honduras, and who, by the way, did NOT predict the end of the world for December 21, 2012. Apparent offerings of burned corn kernels and chert (a stone used to make tools) buried at the base of the Crystal River stones mirrors a similar practice seen at Maya stelae. Did Maya visitors cross the Gulf of Mexico and settle in Florida or at least inspire some of the cultural activities seen at Crystal River?
The level of contact, if any, between the native peoples of Mesoamerica and North America is a controversial issue in archaeology. There certainly was trade (especially for turquoise) between the native peoples of Mexico and the inhabitants of the American Southwest (where the turquoise resources were located). While the overall appearance of Maya sites—with their large, flat-topped pyramids bordering vast plazas—is generally reminiscent of at least some mound builder centers, there is no direct evidence for contact between the Maya and the mound builders. The upright slabs at Crystal River may be a clue concerning such contact, but only more research can answer this question. It’s an interesting hypothesis and worth considering during your visit.
Site Type: Platform Mound
Wow Factor: *** The largest of the mounds is pretty impressive, but the biggest element of the wow factor is the setting of the site itself.
Museum: ****
Ease of Road Access: ****
Ease of Hike: ***
Natural Beauty of Surroundings: **** The surroundings are gorgeous, with lots of sailboats, seagulls, beautiful palm trees, and lizards.
Kid Friendly: **** Like I just said—lizards. Kids will love the place.
Food: Bring your own.
How to Get There: The site is located about 3 miles from the town of Crystal River, 2 miles north on US 19, 1 mile west on State Park Street, and left on Museum Pointe. Punch into your GPS: 3400 N. Museum Point, Crystal River, Florida.
Hours of Operation: Grounds open daily 8 a.m. to sundown. Museum open Monday and Thursday through Sunday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (closed Tuesday and Wednesday).
Cost: See website. You’ll need correct change.
Best Season to Visit: It’s Florida—hot and humid in summer.
Website: www.floridastateparks.org/crystalriverarchaeological/
Designation: State park; National Historic Landmark