Cutting Fabric
A. Cutting Fabric Efficiently and Accurately
If you have washed your fabric, do a light spritz with Mary Ellen’s Best Press and iron it. The fabric will have a bit more body and be more stable for cutting. Like a carpenter: measure twice and cut once!
Eileen D. Wenger, Lancaster, PA
Do not cut all the fabric at one time for a complete quilt. Make a test block first. You may hate the block or find an error. Better to test first, cut once.
Shelia Smith, Goldthwaite, TX
Cut all the pieces from one fabric at a time in the order the fabrics are listed in the pattern. Always cut the larger pieces out first, then do the smaller ones.
Denece Turner, Evans, GA
I tend to check the pieces I need, and sketch out a cutting diagram to make sure I can cut all the pieces I need from the least amount of fabric. Then it’s off to the self-healing cutting board and the rotary cutter. If the fabric is not cut precisely, the rest of the project is in trouble.
Barbara Falkner, Wellard, WA
If I’m working with a large amount of fabric, say for borders, and I know I have plenty of what I need, I’ll rip it by hand with about 2” extra, press it again, then fold it up to cut. It’s a lot easier than trying to fold the entire width selvage to selvage and trying to cut accurately.
Keep a pad of Post-Its nearby to mark your pieces as you cut them. Any interruption, phone, doorbell, etc., will test your memory any number of ways.
Patricia Grimm, New Windsor, NY
Keep a pad of Post-Its nearby to mark your pieces as you cut them. Any interruption, phone, doorbell, etc., will test your memory any number of ways.
Barbara Miller, Flushing, MI
I use templates for cutting fabric for most of my quilts. However, I have also taken advantage of the services of a laser cutting service, which was amazing. I have also used dies for cutting curved quilting pieces.
Kathy McEnearney, McLean, VA
AccuQuilt GO! is the most efficient way to cut. You can spend 54 minutes of every hour sewing instead of cutting with an AccuQuilt system. In addition to being quick, it’s accurate, easy on hands and joints, and can cut multiple layers of fabric at the same time.
Debbie Henry, Lucinda, PA
When fussy cutting to get a particular design on the fabric where I want it in the block, I make a picture frame the size I need for the project. I use that to line up the portion of the design on the fabric that I want to cut around. The picture frame is usually cardboard from a cereal box: cheap, easy to cut out, and it starts as a rectangular shape.
Peggy Schaff, Vadnais Heights, MN
If you have difficulty seeing the one-eighth or other lines for correct cutting, place a strip of masking tape along the line on the ruler that is the correct size for your cutting requirements. It’s easier to see, which makes the cutting more accurate and faster.
H. Gail Schwier, Kingston, Ontario
If I am really having to skimp in piecing, I have even sewed together two scraps and cut out the shape from that. I think it’s charming to find pieced shapes in antique quilts.
Ann Lineberger, Allentown, PA
I am right-handed, so I start with my fabric as far to the right as it will go on my cutting mat. That way I can pick up my cut pieces or strips and continue cutting without having to move the fabric on the cutting mat.
Mardelle Tanner, Sodus, NY
I always fold my washed fabric selvage to selvage, then line the ruler up on the single fold at the bottom and line it up on the right hand side to trim the edge. Then I turn my cutting mat 180° to cut from the left hand side so I don’t disturb the fabric. After three strip cuts, I check to make sure the end is squaring with the bottom fold, and if not, I turn the mat again to trim the edge just enough.
Karla Santoro, Stanley, NY
For squares, I went to a stainless steel manufacturer and got them to make me steel squares in sizes from 2” up to 12”, including the ½” sizes. This means I can cut squares in almost any size quickly and easily.
Charlotte Cameron, Christchurch, New Zealand
If it’s a big print, notice where you are placing the ruler. If possible, you don’t want to have, say, a bird’s tail in the middle of a block and the rest of him missing! If you have a directional pattern, be sure you are cutting pieces so they will look right when your block is pieced together.
Gail Hosmer, Westminster, MD
I cut multiple layers at one time. Usually a minimum of four layers, sometimes more. I teach beginning quilters and strongly encourage them to cut two layers at one time. It’s a great time saver, and they’re always pleased at how easy it can be.
H. Gail Schwier, Kingston, Ontario
For strip cutting, the June Tailor Shape Cutter Pro ruler is wonderful. There’s probably less waste with this method of cutting of fabric than there is, say, with Accuquilt or Sizzix strip-cutting dies. It may be a toss up with the die strip-cutting method as regards time.
The die methods win, hands down, if you are cutting shapes for appliqué. An alternative to the dies worthy of consideration for appliqué and for pieced block quilts is the Inklingo system of printing shapes on fabric using an inkjet printer that can then be cut very efficiently with your rotary cutter.
When all else is exhausted, an 8 × 24” ruler and a rotary cutter with a sharp blade can work wonders, and so can your scissors, if it comes to that.
Fran Hill, Oakland, CA
To keep templates from slipping and sliding when you are using them, attach a product called Invisigrip to the back or flat little rubber or sand paper dots.
Annemarie (Nancy) Poorbaugh, Montgomery, AL
If I’m cutting multiple strips, I use one of the June Tailor slotted rulers; I can make multiple cuts without moving the fabric or ruler.
Sally Zimmer, Bark River, MI
I use a dry erase board and write the size of the piece I am cutting so there are no mistakes.
Elizabeth Merkle, Levittown, PA
Often when starting to cut fabric for a large quilt, the thought comes to mind, “Oh, what if I cut wrong?” So I tell myself, something will work out!
Eileen D. Wenger, Lancaster, PA
I cut the largest pieces first, working down to the smaller pieces. I like to have a very sharp rotary cutter and layer up to six layers.
I don’t always follow the pattern cutting directions, because many times they are not efficiently using the fabric.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
I don’t always follow the pattern cutting directions, because many times they are not efficiently using the fabric. For example, a pattern may have you cut a 6½” strip and then just cut one 6½” square from it. Then it will have you cut an 8½” strip only to cut one 8½” square from it. With a little forethought, you could just cut one 8½” strip and cut both squares from it.
Sue Hurley, Princeton, NJ
Scrutinize your pattern to make sure the instructions are clear and without mistakes. Make a dry run of the block to see if the math provided is correct because printed patterns do have mistakes.
Joanne Picicci, Spokane, WA
If I need several cuts of the same size (e.g., 50 2½” squares), I first cut strips 2½” wide, stack those strips, and then turn my ruler around so I can cut 2½” increments by just moving the ruler—not the fabric. I slide my ruler along the length of my strip so that when I’m finished, I have cut all fabric into 2½” squares. This will work with any size shape you need—just use a calculator to help you with the math.
Erin Crank, Independence, MO
I like to have my cutting surface lower than most people. Like kneading bread dough, it helps to be able to get your shoulders into the work. It’s tiring cutting when your arms are too high.
Beth Miller, Arena, WI
I use at least 100 different fabrics in each quilt I make. I like to cut fat quarters and half-yard cuts completely the first time, so I don’t have to re-fold and handle the fabric later. Like this:
♦ 1” strips can sometimes be cut from what you would ordinarily throw away as unusable. These 1” strips can be used in miniature quilts and small block quilts.
♦ 1¼” strips for Log Cabin blocks
♦ 1½” strips for 9 Patches, Pineapple Log Cabin, and various other quilt units
♦ 2” strips for 4 patches and miscellaneous
♦ 2½” strips for Half Square Triangles (HSTs) and various other quilt units
♦ 3” strips and squares for Hourglass, HSTs and various other units
♦ 3½” strips for various units
♦ 4” squares
♦ 5” squares
♦ I cut selvages off to be used in making hand bags, etc.
♦ I pick out any fabric that would be good for appliquéd leaves and flowers and store them together in my appliqué bin.
Nora Manley, Athens, AL
Give yourself enough room to cut with precision. If you have a large piece of fabric and a small cutting area, try cutting it somewhere else. The kitchen table is a nice alternative.
Patti Gorman, Kingston, MA
I took a foldable banquet table and put it up on the plastic bed risers that you can purchase at Target or Walmart. My own cutting table, for cheap!
I like to stand up while cutting my fabric. Finding a table the right height can be a problem, and cutting tables are expensive. However, I took a foldable banquet table and put it up on the plastic bed risers that you can purchase at Target or Walmart. These are the same bed risers that college students use to have a bed up for more storage. My own cutting table, for cheap!
Shannon Gittermann, Bartlett, TN
I’m not an efficient cutter, but I use scraps for other projects.
Patricia Mason, Virginia Beach, VA
A large, flat smooth surface is the best for cutting. I love my ping pong tabletop on top of the billiards table.
Sandra Pavletich, Oakville, MO
I keep all project cuts on a flat cardboard take-out tray after the cut so I can carry the strips or pieces to my sewing area from my cutting area. Sometimes I use the tray to carry the pieces to my ironing station. Everything stays organized by size and color. There is also the bonus of being able to see the unfinished pieces disappear as I sew the project together.
Jo Yawn, Jonesboro, AR
This is just my way, but I find it boring to sew or chain piece all units for a block. That means I cut out a few blocks to construct at a time. I don’t get the satisfaction of seeing all the blocks come together at once, but I enjoy my time constructing each block a little at a time and seeing progress little by little and enjoying the process more.
Sarah Francis, Greenville, TX
If I have something tedious to do, like squaring up triangles, I try to save the task to take along to a sew-in. Things like that are more fun when you are doing them with friends.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
B. Using Bias and Straight of Grain
There are 3 directions to fabric: the lengthwise or straight of grain (follows the selvage edge), the crosswise grain (90° angle to the selvage edge), and the bias (45° angle to the selvage edge). The lengthwise has the least stretch, the crosswise a little stretch, and the bias a lot of stretch.
Favorite Distractions While Quilting, According to Our Survey
My preference is football, or any sport, because I am never tempted to stop to watch, but the noise is soothing. Maybe because I grew up with 4 brothers and a dad who all loved sports.
Barbara Miller, Flushing, MI
I use the lengthwise and crosswise grain for most projects. During quilt construction, however, a piece may be cut such that you end up having to sew on the bias. A good example of this is half-square triangles and Flying Geese. There are ways to make these without fearing the stretch. The bias cut is commonly used when making binding. Curves in the quilt edge (like a scallop border) would indicate use of a bias cut binding.
Anna Osborn, Omaha, NE
There are three grains to every woven fabric: the straight grain consists of warp and weft. The warp is the threads that were on the loom before the weaving began. They are the long threads that run the length of the fabric parallel to the selvage. The warp does not stretch. The weft threads are the ones that are woven in and out of the warp. They go across the fabric and wrap around the edges to create the selvage; they will stretch very little. The bias is the 45° diagonal to warp and weft, and it is very stretchy.
Diane Bachman, Leola, PA
When I sewed clothes, years ago, I was taught to pull a thread to find the straight of grain. I still do that if I can’t readily see it in the weave. To do this, make a small clip near the end on the selvage. Fray a few strands, then pull one slowly and carefully. When I want bias cuts, I use the 45° line on my cutting guide. I align it with the straight of grain of the fabric, then make my cuts.
Miki Willa, Renton, WA
Sometimes the design is printed on the surface of the fabric and it is a geometric design and it does not line up with the grain of the fabric. You will need to make an executive decision about going with the grain or going with the design on the surface of the fabric.
Deborah Vivrette, Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Grain line is important even in small pieces because they can twist when the quilt is washed. The grain is important because an off-grain patch will fray and pull apart easier than one that is on grain.
Laroletta Petty, Breckenridge, CO
Depending on the use of the bias-cut material, you may also want to use some fusible interfacing to keep it from stretching.
Jo Anne Kani-Miller, Kissimmee, FL
If you are cutting triangles, try to have two edges on the straight of grain. Look at how your blocks go together and avoid having two bias edges to sew together. One straight of grain will stabilize the bias of the other.
Nancy Henry, Rochester, NH
If you’re going to work with a lot of bias, heavily starch your fabric. Instead of pinning, use double-sided tape. It will help prevent the stretching that usually occurs with sewing on the bias.
Ruth Anglin, Tijeras, NM
If making half square triangles, I use squares as a base, (slightly larger than the intended triangle, the finished size of the square of two triangles sewn together plus ⅞”). I draw a line diagonally through the square, then sew ¼” on either side of the line. I cut along the drawn line to produce two triangles with stitching that stabilizes the bias edges.
Barbara Falkner, Wellard, WA
I never cut fabric lengthwise, not even for borders, as most of the experts recommend. It has no “give” and will not hang correctly.
Nora Manley, Athens, AL
Always cut your outside borders on the length of grain of your fabric, even if you have to buy an extra half yard of fabric. Your quilt will be so much better because the borders do not stretch and stand up and wave at you. Very few designers will tell you this in their patterns: they must not quilt their own quilts. Wavy borders are the biggest problem for your long arm quilter. Ugh!
Carole Wilder, Hastings, MN
I use spray starch when necessary to stabilize bias edges.
I use the Shape Cut Pro to cut strips or squares and even use it on the bias as it holds the fabric securely and avoids stretching the bias edges. I use spray starch when necessary to stabilize bias edges.
Doris Gould, Johnstown, NY
Some time ago I found an easy way to cut bias binding. Open fabric flat, selvages top/bottom with no folds. Fold bottom selvage up to cut-side to form a 45° angle. Rotate fabric so fold is now on your left and fold up on top of the 1st fold. Finally fold down, leaving a triangle over-lapping the bottom. Cut off the left fold which should be a thin strip. You can now cut your binding in strips whatever width you want and you will only be left with a triangle on the right as waste. Sounds way more complicated than it is—once you have done it, it is a snap!
Brenda Seth, Waterford, PA
Three standard sizes of rotary cutters are 28mm, 45mm, and 60mm. I would recommend having at least one of each. The 28mm is the smallest and is great for making small cuts or using in tight areas. The 45mm will be the most used. It’s able to make most cuts you will need to make. The 60mm is good for cutting through multiple layers of fabric, like in a Stack-n-Whack type pattern. I also use the 60mm when trimming the quilt sandwich after it has been quilted.
Anna Osborn, Omaha, NE
Always cut away from your body with the cutter in your dominant hand and the ruler to the opposite side. If you’re right handed, position the fabric to your right and the ruler to the left so you can work left to right, making continuous cuts without needing to reposition the fabric.
Jan Mast, Lancaster, PA
When I am cutting, I always walk my hand down the ruler so the ruler doesn’t move.
Karen Nick, Lutz, FL
I angle the cutter toward the ruler a bit. I try to keep the cutting pressure on the fabric, not on the ruler.
Jenifer Aragon, Bloomington, CA
When you’re starting a long cut, cut 1” towards yourself with the rotary cutter, then proceed away from yourself to the finish. This helps prevent pushing the fabric and having it shift.
Eileen D. Wenger, Lancaster, PA
There are small ridges along the top edge of all rotary cutters with which I’m familiar. This is meant for your “peter pointer” finger to help add leverage strength when cutting fabrics.
H. Gail Schwier, Kingston, Ontario
Position a ruler over the piece you want to keep. If the rotary cutter strays, it will stray into the excess and not your piece.
Position a ruler over the piece you want to keep. If the rotary cutter strays, it will stray into the excess and not your piece.
Karen Renninger, Punta Gorda, FL
Buy the largest cutting mat you have space for. I love my 30 × 58” mat because it gives me enough room to cut width-of-fabric strips from even the widest fabrics.
Linda Jedlicka, Freeland, WA
A rotating mat is my biggest helper. I am not a great cutter—awkward is a better description—but the rotating mat allows me so much more flexibility.
Brenda Seth, Waterford, PA
I use the blank, not ruled side of the cutting mat. Therefore, the ruler lines are creating the measurement.
Barbara Hutton, Carolina Shores, NC
Your cutting mat shouldn’t be too worn. A good quality mat with no wear works wonders. Sometimes I think the blade is dull, when actually the mat is worn.
Joan Norfolk, Kilmore, Australia
Cutting with a dull blade makes me press down harder to make my cuts, leading to strain on my wrists, arms, and shoulders. I like to break out a new blade when I start a new project. I love the way a really sharp blade slices through the fabric, and it leads to less stress on my wrist and arm.
Rosemarie Garone, West Islip, NY
If you feel like you are pressing down too hard, or there is a skipped part that you have to go back over, you need to change your blade. You will be amazed how much easier it is to cut.
Lori Fitzpatrick, Havertown, PA
Get into the habit of closing and locking the blade every time you put the rotary cutter down, especially if you have children or pets. Someone mentioned that rotary cutters might look like popsicles to a child.
Rosemarie Garone, West Islip, NY
After teaching sewing classes in our local high school for many years, my main comment on rotary cutters is to never lay a cutter down with the blade exposed. Stand while you cut so you’ll have more control of the ruler/straight edge, and always cut away from yourself to keep from giving yourself another belly button.
Nancy Swanwick, Fort Scott, KS
Always use a sharp blade. A dull blade slows down cutting and is harder work for your hands. We only get one set of hands. There are plenty of blades for sale. Take care of your hands!
Virginia Bissen, Rose Creek, MN
Some of Your Favorite Movies to Quilt to, According to Our Survey
♦ Pride and Prejudice
♦ Gone With the Wind
♦ Pretty Woman
♦ Mamma Mia
♦ The Sound of Music
♦ How to Make an American Quilt
♦ Sleepless in Seattle
♦ Steel Magnolias
♦ You’ve Got Mail
♦ Singing in the Rain
♦ An Affair to Remember
♦ Doctor Zhivago
♦ Sense and Sensibility
♦ Fried Green Tomatoes
♦ Notting Hill
♦ McLintock!
♦ The Wizard of Oz
Pride and Prejudice—the Colin Firth version, of course! I know the dialogue so well that I don’t need to keep my eyes on the TV, hence the sewing and/or quilting will actually be completed.
H. Gail Schwier, Kingston, Ontario
To remind me to lock the rotary cutter, I wear a hair scrunchy on my wrist. When I wear it on my wrist, the ruler should be in my hand. When not, the scrunchy should be around the cutter.
Peggy Schaff, Vadnais Heights, MN
Always put a pair of closed-toe shoes on before using your rotary cutter. This can save a trip to the ER or urgent care if your cutter slips out of your hand and lands on your foot.
Erin Crank, Independence, MO
Keep blades separate for cutting paper (such as foundation piecing and crafts) and fabric.
Louise Lott, Healesville, Australia
Make sure you only have one blade in the cutter— the blades like to stick together when I change them, and two blades cutting make a mess!
Sheila Beins, Seward, NE
The rulers I use are all outfitted with slide-resistant circles on the bottom, as well as a finger guard. I did have one serious mishap with my fingers and a rotary cutter early on and that was enough.
Susan Chandler, Solon Springs, WI
Always use a sharp blade. I bought an electric blade sharpener for this reason. I also take my cutter apart frequently and clean it with a soft cloth or brush. Sometimes I put a tiny dab of silicone or sewing machine oil on the blade.
When the blade is just a little dull, run the blade through fine grit sandpaper or aluminum foil several times.
Emily Galea, Boca Raton, FL
Sometimes when the blade is just a little dull, I will run the blade through fine grit sandpaper or aluminum foil several times. Just cut through it like you would fabric.
Betty Charlebois, Brownfield, TX
I usually write on the blade with a permanent marker the date the blade was changed.
Barbara Hill, Huntsville, AL
I use a Klutz glove to change my blades. I also use a pencil box when I bring it to class or a workshop along with extra blades. I’ve seen and heard of way too many accidents.
Keep the package instructions when you buy a rotary cutter so that you will recognize all the pieces and can take it apart and put it back together, as well as adjust the tightness of the blade as you use it.
Laurie Eason, Voorhees, NJ
I use a type of rotary cutter that does not expose its blade until pressure is exerted, and then the blade automatically retracts when done.
Helenruth Schuette, Bemidji, MN
I’m left handed and my favorite rotary cutter is Martelli’s. It keeps my hand and wrist in proper alignment.
Cathie Shelton, Montgomery Village, MD
I love my Olfa that can be used easily by left and right handers by just sliding a lever back as I teach people to sew and am a leftie.
Robyn Waite, Cherrybrook, Australia
Dressmaker weights work well to anchor and support fabric on the cutting mat. The edge along which you cut must be stable. I find a draftsman t-square the best tool for stable rotary cutting.
Sharon Mountford, Canoga Park, CA
Since my hands shake a lot from Parkinsons Disease, I was afraid to use rotary cutters until I got a “Shape Cut” guide, which has slits in ½” increments on a heavy plastic square of about 15”. It does a great job of controlling the rotary cutters.
Netta Pyron, Rolla, MO
I like using my wavy-edge (pinking) rotary cutter. If I cut my blocks with it, they do not ravel, which is good since I handle them a lot while I am appliquéing them.
Karen Nick, Lutz, FL
I have loads of rulers, from my 1 × 6” ruler with the ¼” lip that I use to get an exact ¼” seam for paper piecing, up to the longest ruler that fits completely across the width of my cutting table. If I need to cut several seam allowances, I put a strip of painters’ tape to the ruler to mark the cutting width; it’s easy to see since painter’s tape comes in colors and doesn’t leave any residue on the ruler.
I also have a collection of different sized squares from 4” to 12” I find being able to use the best length, width or square shortens my cutting time. I think these rulers are a good investment, like good scissors.
Marion Eggers, Winter Park, FL
I do have a favorite size of ruler—the 6” by 12”. It is quite versatile. If I were permitted only one ruler, that would be it.
Gloria Clark, Wayne, PA
I like the 8½” Creative Grid for cutting strips. It is easy for me to see the lines and I like the extra 2” width for more options. Another favorite ruler is Deb Tucker’s Tucker Trimmer for cutting squares accurately.
I use the smallest ruler possible to get the size patch I need. Smaller rulers are usually easier to manage so there are fewer mistakes or slips when cutting.
Annie Morgan, Johnson, VT
Mostly I’ll use Creative Grid rulers. They have gripper dots on the underside to prevent slippage, thin black lines, and are very accurate. If a fabric is very dark, I’ll use the Omnigrid ruler because the yellow lines are more visible.
Eileen D. Wenger, Lancaster, PA
I use the smallest ruler possible to get the size patch I need. Smaller rulers are usually easier to manage so there are fewer mistakes or slips when cutting.
Jennifer Padden, Austin, TX
Woodcraft, a store that my carpenter husband shops at, has a heavy, very accurate ruler that does not shift easily on fabric. The weight helps to hold it down. On one side the center mark is O and I can center that O on a motif that I want in the middle of a quilt piece. I then mark and cut.
I use the June Tailor Shape Cut Pro, Shape Cut Plus, and Exact Eighths often when cutting lots of pieces of the same size. I hate cutting something 3⅞”. With the Exact Eighths ruler, cutting is a breeze.
Frances Courson, Maryville, TN
If my ruler is not an Omnigrip, then I put the little sandpaper discs on it. Those seem to work the best for me. I have tried Invisigrip and the silicone circles and was not impressed.
Marti Walkup Rajotte, Mount Juliet, TN
My first ruler was 3 × 18. I don’t use it very often anymore. I like my 6 × 24 for cutting strips, and I have a 9½” and 14½” square which I could not live without. I use them for squaring up blocks and corners. Invaluable.
Olivia Kuebler, Kansas City, MO
I love the green line Birch Craft Rulers. It doesn’t matter what fabric it is on I can always see the line to cut. The line looks like it is fluorescent. My favorite one is my 6½ × 12”.
Deb Williams, Burra, Australia
I use Salem rulers. They’re sturdy and relatively straightforward without a lot of distracting lines that I normally don’t need!
Amanda Kei Andrews, Vero Beach, FL
I use a draftsman T-square which has a notch which just fits over the edge of the mat and grips the right end while I apply pressure to the left end. I use no special rulers and have never found the need for any.
Sharon Mountford, Canoga Park, CA
I like the ones that have the lines laser-cut in them. They do not wear off. My favorite company, Rob’s Rulers, is no longer in business because of a hurricane. I’m hoping that when I need some new rulers, someone else will start manufacturing them again. They were green, easy to read, and the company would engrave your name on them if you ordered directly. No more lost rulers at quilting retreats!
If I could have only one ruler, I would use a 12½” square ruler. It is especially valuable for squaring blocks.
If I could have only one ruler, I would use a 12½” square ruler. It is especially valuable for squaring blocks.
Gail Hurn, Highland Haven, TX
I use Eleanor Burns’ rulers because they are easy to understand. Basically all her rulers have the same principle of the 45° angle and the instructions, if you should lose them, are on her website.
Kellie Hewitt, Marion, VA
I make lots of small reproduction quilts and love the yellow Omnigrid rulers that are marked in ⅛” increments. I also prefer to use shorter rulers, even for width-of-fabric cuts, because I can control them better.
Jo Ann Disbro, Dillsboro, IN
I love Quilter’s Rule rulers of any kind or shape. They have deep ridges that nestle into the fabric and don’t slip. The one I use the most is the 6½ × 24”.
Pat Smith, Sidney, NY
I have a 5” square which I use as a template to quickly cut leftover fabric into charm squares. I make layer cakes from my stash with a 10½” ruler, especially if I am going to make a stack-and-whack quilt. It’s much easier and more accurate to trim down several at a time to 10” rather than lining up those already cut at 10”.
Nancee McCann, Wilmington, DE
There are several products to apply to the ruler to reduce slippage, but what works best for me is piece of rubbery shelf liner. It serves the same purpose, is dirt cheap and what I like best—is not permanent. Using something designed for non-slippage reduces the need to press so hard to stabilize the fabric. As a retired physical therapist assistant, I also suggest using body weight through your palm flat on the ruler. That’s a far better alternative to the traditional spread hand, fingers only pressing on the ruler. Palm flat is far less stressful to the wimpy hand muscles.
I use the Easy Angle and Companion Angle rulers for cutting triangles. I took classes from Bonnie Hunter and like her method of cutting triangles using these rulers.
Janet Bland, Smyrna, GA
I have the Lazy Geese x 4 ruler that I love to use to make Flying Geese super easy! I make 4 at a time which saves time, plus there’s no bias sewing.
Amy Mayo, Havre de Grace, MD
I love the Gypsy Gripper on the rulers I use to cut strips and smaller shapes with my rotary cutters. The smallest size is especially helpful when cutting fabric using plastic templates.
Linda Jedlicka, Freeland, WA
I use the Alto cutting system because I have arthritis in my hands. It helps me keep the ruler straight and it doesn’t move.
Sherrie Mazzocchi, Annandale, NJ
Currently, I’m using the Martelli system. One ruler has ½” cuts across the entire ruler. You put your cutter into a slot and cut. It makes perfect cuts every time.
Melanie Truesdale, Russellville, TN
If I’m cutting large pieces of fabric across the grain, I’ll use my 8½ × 24” ruler, as it neatly fits across the fabric. If you have to use more than one ruler to make a single cut, either one can shift or slip a bit. For smaller cutting jobs or subcutting the large width-of-fabric strips, I always use my 6 × 12” ruler. This one seems to be the most useful and is less cumbersome to use than many others.
H. Gail Schwier, Kingston, Ontario
I always use the same brand of rulers (Omnigrid) for my quilt projects. This guarantees the measurements are all the same.
Annette Crain, Spanish Fork, UT
I love the Olfa frosted rulers because they are easy to read on both light and dark fabrics. With the frosted back, they do not slip, and they stay flat rather than wobbly if you add non-skid items to the back.
Patricia Boyle, Bedford, TX
I enjoy the Log Cabin ruler set; it takes all the guesswork out of lengths, and I can cut the whole quilt top with just one ruler.
Diane Bachman, Leola, PA
I have found a Sullivan’s “The Cutting Edge” clear ruler. The measurements are clear, and the bonus is the rotary cutter blade can be sharpened whilst you are cutting because of the abrasive edge on one side.
Barbara Falkner, Wellard, WA
E. Selvages
Remember to cut off the selvages before you cut. The weave on that portion of the fabric is different than the rest so it won’t behave the way the rest of the fabric will.
Remember to cut off the selvages before you cut. The reason you do this is because the weave on that portion of the fabric is different than the rest so it won’t behave the way the rest of the fabric will. You can save the selvage in case you need to know what you bought. Or you can use them to tie up various bundles, or you can take them fabric shopping with you to choose harmonizing colors with the dots on your selvage.
E. Anne Hendrickson, Toledo, OR
I always like to cut off the selvage before cutting out pieces. There is the temptation to creep into the selvage as I cut pieces, and the thicker edge could make a difference to your quilt.
Barbara Falkner, Wellard, WA
Keep the selvages after you remove them. There are some nice patterns for strip piecing using these selvages.
Nancy Miller, Sun Lakes, AZ
I usually cut the edge off that has the name of the fabric and manufacturer and keep that until I am done with the quilt. That way if I need more fabric, I know what I used and can look for it at the quilt store or online. I also use these strips to tie up my garden plants, like tomato plants, when they start to fall to the ground. I pound a stick in the ground and tie the plant with the strips. They are environmentally safe, and after I am done with them, the birds like to pick them up and use for their nests.
Judy McLeod, Alexandria, MN
I like to cut off the selvages, plus ½”. I save them, roll them into a ball, and use the selvages to tie up items, plants, fabric bundles, etc.
Nannette Konstant, Flourtown, PA
F. What To Do With Scraps
I keep 4½” squares and matching 2½” squares cut from scrap fabric. It makes it easy to throw together a scrap star whenever I need a fast gift.
Kathryn Wright, Gales Ferry, CT
I think before I cut. I don’t leave much space, if any, between pieces. And after I’ve cut everything for one project, I save the fabric for something else. I don’t throw much away, and the scraps I can’t sew with, I use for starting a line of chain piecing or testing seam width or stitches.
Gail Hosmer, Westminster, MD
I collect small pieces and cut them into three sizes per Joan Ford’s book of using scraps. She sorts them into three sizes: 5”, 3½” and 2” pieces. All of her patterns use these sizes of blocks. It takes time to sort the different categories, but I am well on my way to having enough to make a quilt.
Very small pieces are sorted for a friend who uses them to stuff dog beds for the local animal shelter. Nothing is wasted!
Margaret (Peg) Parsons, New Castle, DE
Sometimes we end up with just a narrow strip of fabric. Find yourself a nice Log Cabin quilt pattern. Cut those narrow strips into the width needed for the Log Cabin quilt (i.e. 1½”). Of course the lengths will vary. Put them in a box marked “Save for Log Cabin Quilt”. If you do a lot of quilting, in no time you will be well on your way to making a Log Cabin quilt with a lot of cutting already done.
Virginia Bissen, Rose Creek, MN
I love string quilts for using up scraps.
Lucy Esposito, Granbury, TX
I save leftover binding strips to make a scrappy binding for a scrappy quilt or use to tie up pretty packages.
Brenda Rice, Nicholasville, KY
Place a container near your work area for fabric scraps. Save them—if you don’t use scraps, give them to a quilting buddy.
Linda Ahn, Mohrsville, PA
The threads and cut off ends and any small pieces that I don’t believe I can work into a scrappy quilt somewhere, I use to stuff pillows, or I may throw them outside for the birds to use for nests.
Kellie Hewitt, Marion, VA