Appliqué
A. Preparing Pieces for Appliqué
I think for appliqué you need to be skillful with all the methods as each pattern, dependent on piece size and difficulty, has different skill needs. I try to be versatile. I find needle-turn relaxing, English paper piecing perfect, and freezer paper good for tiny pieces. I like my finished work to be strong and well done, and this figures into my choices.
Elaine Nixon, Abbotsford, British Columbia
To prepare my fabric for appliqué, I wash out the factory chemicals and finishes. Then I carefully iron it with steam. I want the fabric soft enough to needle-turn into gentle curves without any “pointy-s” that may show up in stiff fabric.
Jennifer Padden, Austin, TX
Once the fabric is pressed and I am certain it is on grain, I use spray starch on it and press with a dry iron. This adds body, prevents stretching while handling the fabric, and makes lining up my appliqué piece a snap. I do not turn under my appliqué edges, preferring to either hand or machine finish the edges. I add a lightweight fusible bonding product slightly larger than the appliqué. I like Lite Steam-A-Seam2.
I add cross-hairs in water soluble pencil to mark the grain on the fabric before I bond it. I draw vertical and horizontal lines on my tracing pattern so that I can make sure it will be on grain with the fabric when I trace it. I then trace my appliqué design in reverse on one of the paper liners.
I am now ready to cut out my appliqué, remove the final piece of paper, and fuse it to my fabric, being very careful to line up my cross hairs (grain marks). I prefer to prepare several pieces of fabric for appliqué at once, so that when the time comes to bond the pieces to my blocks, I’m ready to go.
Jan Roach, Anderson, CA
Another method is to put the freezer paper shiny-side up on the back of the fabric, trim, allowing for the seam, and then turn the fabric over the freezer paper with an iron. Go carefully around the edge of the fabric with the point of the dry iron, then “painting” sizing on the turned seam allowance and ironing it dry. Pull out the paper when you’re halfway through stitching the piece onto the background fabric.
Turn the fabric piece, not the scissors, when cutting, so the edges come out smoother and accurate.
Marie White, Waiuku, New Zealand
Take your time when cutting out the fused pieces, and use small, sharp scissors. Turn the fabric piece, not the scissors, when cutting, so the edges come out smoother and accurate.
Kathy Gooden, Tallahassee, FL
I copy my pattern design on an inkjet printer with freezer paper sheets in it. It saves hours of tracing. I make a clear overlay using a special film paper made for an inkjet printer that I purchase in an office supply store. This is a huge time saver. I never mark my background fabric.
Stephanie Greenberg, Lawrenceville, NJ
I love to do needleturn appliqué, and I do mine a little bit differently than anyone I have ever known. I trace or draw each appliqué piece on freezer paper, labeling it with a letter or name so that I know where it will be positioned on the background fabric. I cut each shape out on the line where the fabric will be turned under. I then iron that piece of freezer paper onto the front of the fabric I have chosen. I draw around the freezer paper onto the fabric with an erasable pen and cut it out, leaving a scant ¼” seam allowance. I number all of my appliqué pieces in the order that I will be sewing them onto the background fabric.
Marcia Porcelli, Forsyth, GA
I trace each design on freezer paper, cut out the actual design, and iron to the back of my fabric. I then cut it again, allowing about a ¼” seam allowance. I lay out the pieces, pin, and baste stitch them on with the sewing machine. After you wash your quilt, you will not be able to see the sewing marks left by machine stitching. This is faster than hand basting and makes your appliqué portable so that you can take it with you to doctor’s appointments or other places. Also, you will not have to worry about losing any of your pieces.
Nora Manley, Athens, AL
I do back-baste appliqué, so I trace my pattern on freezer paper, iron it to the front side of my background and trace it on the fabric. I mark my pattern with colors for each piece, then look for items that need to go on first. Using a light box in my lap, I position my fabric on the piece to be applied.
Wilma Scholl, Kaufman, TX
With back basting, I do not have pieces floating around to keep track of.
Annie Morgan, Johnson, VT
On simple shapes, I cut the piece ¼” larger all the way around, sew it to a used dryer sheet with right sides together with a ¼” seam. Cut a slit in the lining and turn it right side out and press. No raw edges.
I always use Steam-a-Seam. So basically, I only have to draw the design onto the paper, cut it out, and iron it on. If it is a wall hanging, I stop there. If it is on a bed quilt that’s going to be washed, then I also sew around the design.
Joan Hagan, St. Marys, PA
B. Organizing Appliqué Pieces
To keep track of the pieces that must be appliquéd, I always do what I call a “mock up” of the entire block, and then the entire quilt on graph paper. I assign my fabrics numbers, snipping off a piece and adding it to my chart on the mock up. Then I make up a full-size pattern piece that depicts the entire pattern that is to be appliquéd on each individual block. Each individual part is numbered and/or color coded. As pieces are prepared, I number them on the bonding paper and attach the appropriate piece with a quilting pin to the full-sized mock up of the block. I found this keeps me on track and I can catch any mistakes quickly before a total disaster happens.
Jan Roach, Anderson, CA
I make a second copy of my pattern and pin it to a foam core board. As I prepare my pieces, I pin them to the foam core board.
Barbara Cascelli, Murrieta, CA
I like to string my appliqué pieces onto a heavy piece of thread in the order in which they will be applied to the background fabric. They travel nicely with no chance of being lost or mixed up.
Jean Post, Santa Cruz, CA
I use Ziploc bags with labels inside the bag. I don’t write on the outside so I can use the bag again and again—saves money and the environment.
Janice Bayers, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
I stack the appliqué pieces into numbered piles on a small cookie sheet. When I am done for the day, I cover the cookie sheet with a sheet of foil or plastic wrap so that they stay in place. The pieces are kept clean, with no danger of being blown off and onto the floor, never to be seen again.
Sharon Sutton, Lindsey, OH
I number the appliqué pieces by which go first. I use blue painter’s tape because it removes easily and doesn’t leave any residue behind.
Joyce Carey, Waterford, MI
I usually lay them out on the background fabric on a spare bed near my sewing room. When I get the right look, I will take a photo to make sure I get the same look after I remove the pieces when I start sewing. When there are really small pieces, I like to put them in a shallow plastic container so they don’t get lost, giving me easy access to the pieces.
Carolyn Haggerty, Advance, NC
Using the starch method, I can glue baste all of the block pieces to the background at once and don’t have to worry about losing any of them.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
I have about 12 squares of flannel-backed vinyl. Once the pieces are cut for a block, I lay them on the flannel side and store them in a pizza box. This holds them in place until I’m ready to sew them on. I can also roll the vinyl up quickly for a quick “to go” project.
Ruth Anglin, Tijeras, NM
If it’s a large quilt with many blocks, I use a notebook and top-loading protector sheets to keep my pieces for each block, along with a picture of that block in the protector sheet. I organize a protector sheet for each block.
Rebecca Hoffmann, Plant City, FL
Any fusible web will adhere to your needle, so it’s important to keep a clean needle. I periodically take out my needle and clean it with Goo Off, Goo Gone, or WD-40.
Elizabeth Merkle, Levittown, PA
I have recently been using the Trolley Needle Thread Controller to try the needle turn technique. You can feel the edge of the piece right where it needs to fold over! You can then use a glue stick to hold the fabric over.
Jessica Brinkerhoff, Bountiful, UT
Use a fiberglass appliqué cloth so your ironing surface and iron remain clean.
Elizabeth Merkle, Levittown, PA
Use the smaller pins that are made for appliqué. They make life much easier.
Deborah Gross, Willow Grove, PA
For circles, I love the yo-yo method using Karen K. Buckley’s perfect circles, coins or washers for the template. Perfect circles, every time.
The thread should match the appliqué, not the background.
Louise Lott, Healesville, Australia
For hand appliqué, take small stitches with good matching thread, using a size 11 straw or a Roxanne appliqué needle for best results. The thread should match the appliqué, not the background; I use DMC or Masterpiece thread. I use tiny dots of Elmer’s white washable school glue to place the appliqués, and then take them with me so I can sit and sew anywhere.
Linda Noble, Colorado Springs, CO
I have outlined the edges of appliquéd pieces with a permanent Pigma pen or Sharpie to make the pieces stand out.
Jenn Martin, Prattville, AL
Soft-fuse is the best product out there. It is light weight, and I can appliqué through it easily without my needle sticking.
Doris Caldwell, Friedens, PA
I always have a wooden chopstick in hand to push and fix a pointed piece in place as needed when I’m machine appliquéing. Never a metal ripper or any other metal tool, because my needle could break on those.
Joke Dingemans, Amersfoort, Netherlands
Always start with a new needle. Old needles and appliqué aren’t friends. If you’re not careful, you will end up with a snag and be forced to rip your piece out and start anew— that is, if it didn’t snag the background fabric, too, which is what happened to me. Trust me, it’s easier to just reach for a new needle.
Elizabeth Rogers, New Port Richey, FL
D. Pros and Cons of Appliqué Methods
Needle turn is my favorite method of appliqué. I find I can get sharper points, better curves, and smaller stitches.
Roberta Bland, Milton, FL
Once I made a very elaborate appliquéd quilt, using needleturn appliqué with the starch technique and freezer paper. The results were beautiful, but I think a lot of the effort was lost once the quilting was done. I chose to quilt around the edges of many of the pieces and loved the results, but in the end you couldn’t really even tell I’d done all of that handwork!
Amy DeCesare, Delmont, PA
I like needle turn because the fusible that comes on pre-fused pieces sticks terribly to my needle and causes all sorts of issues.
Denise Rosbicki, South Prince George, VA
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I like the issue that talks about the different stores. I love to go on shop hops, so I like to plan trips around shop hops in different areas.
Mary Wojtkiewicz, Santa Ana, CA
I like needleturn appliqué. I find it has the most control, and I can sew anywhere. I tried the glue/starch/ironing method and found it too constricting and also time consuming. It usually only worked with large templates and not the small pieces that I work with now.
I love needle turn appliqué because I can prepare the pieces ahead of time and take my appliqué with me to quilt bees, or watch TV with my hubby and appliqué. Needle turn is something I can do with other people, rather than being in my sewing room by myself.
Patricia Dews, Gainesville, VA
I like needle turn appliqué because it gives me clean edges, and it also gives sort of a 3-D effect. However, I love wool appliqué because it is simpler than needle turn. I can just iron my wool piece onto the background and then do the blanket stitch on its edges because wool edges will not fray.
Patricia Henseler, Maple Grove, MN
I prefer the freezer paper method so that I can see what the shape looks like ahead of time. I’ve tried needle turn and it works well, but by using the freezer paper, I can control difficult shapes ahead of time and avoid having to re-do curves.
Jill Bowman, Jamestown, NC
I use the toothpick turn method of appliqué. I find the toothpick grabs the fabric and makes it easier to turn the seam allowance under. I then appliqué the piece in place by hand.
Mary Andra Holmes, Prescott, AZ
I like to do machine-turned edge appliqué. My pieces are prepared and glued to the background, and then I sit and sew with an invisible stitch. My results look as good or even better than hand needle-turned. I like this because it is faster for me to complete a project. I also now have arthritic hands, so it is difficult for me to hand stitch.
Rebecca Hoffmann, Plant City, FL
I prefer to hand sew appliqué because it’s easier to work on curves, and I can ensure all edges are sewn.
Jenn Martin, Prattville, AL
On wool, I prefer hand appliqué which gives a slightly more primitive or hand work appearance than using my machine.
Marsha Brasky, Algonquin, IL
I like to do freezer paper appliqué because I get better points and curves. I also like the choice of sewing them down by hand or machine, whatever suits me at the time.
I like machine appliqué because it is stronger and holds better.
Carol Lewin, Hay Springs, NE
I like machine appliqué because it is stronger and holds better. My appliqués are for kids, and they are tough on clothes and blankies.
Joyce Carey, Waterford, MI
I prefer back basting. I do not like having pins in my way, and I know the appliqué piece is secured as I want it to look when finished.
Jeanne DeHart, Livingston, MT
I prefer to use the mylar templates, starch, and hand appliqué. These steps ensure my pieces are always exactly the correct size and have a wonderful finished edge, which will remain as beautiful as the day I stitched it for many years to come.
Elizabeth Rogers, New Port Richey, FL
I like a portable project, so I use the starch method with the paper removed and pieces glue basted to the background. I can easily work on it in the car or at a meeting and not have to dig around for pieces. I like to thread up all the colors I will need and carry them in a domed needle keeper.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
E. Machine Appliqué
Take it slow. I get the worst results when I rush machine appliqué. If you don’t want your piece to be stiff because of the fusible web, you can use fabric glue or a glue stick to keep it in place. Or you can trim out the middle parts of the fusible web after you trace your design (but before you fuse it), removing up to ½” inside the traced design.
Kari Vojtechovsky, Centennial, CO
Thin fusible batting can really work wonders with machine appliqué, especially with animals on baby quilts. It makes them pop out more.
Amanda Kei Andrews, Vero Beach, FL
Cut away the fusible in the center of large appliqué pieces, which is called windowing. It’s best to use this technique for things that won’t be washed often.
Lisa England, Ashland, KY
Make sure you stabilize the area to be stitched before you machine appliqué. Do this even if your shapes are fused on because it helps your stitching to be smooth with no pull on the background. Use a tear-away stabilizer.
Marianne Udell, Santa Fe, NM
The most common machine appliqué is to use narrow zig-zag to catch the edge of the appliqué with the zig and the foundation of the quilt with the zag, very close to the edge of the appliqué.
You can use either polyester monofilament thread which goes with anything, or match your thread to the appliqué. Many stitchers like to use silk thread because it blends in so well, but others may want to use a contrasting thread with a more obvious stitch to add another design element in the quilt.
Jennifer Padden, Austin, TX
I prefer to use a narrow blanket stitch when machine appliquéing. This stitch reminds me of a dance step: forward back, left back, forward again, so it is easy to watch for the perfect moment to pivot. On concave curve intersections, stop with your needle down inside of the appliqué piece, then pivot. In convex curve joints, stop with your needle down in the background fabric. Pivot/turn and stitch some more. On straight line intersections and corners, always come up to the intersection, stop with your needle down in the background fabric, then pivot before sewing some more.
Elizabeth Rogers, New Port Richey, FL
Satin stitch is another way to hold the appliquéd pieces. This is lovely if the pieces are larger, as satin stitch gives texture to the work.
Barbara Falkner, Wellard, WA
When coming to a point in my work, I slowly decrease the satin stitch width and at the end, plant the needle and then pivot. I continue with the smaller stitch, gradually increasing the width to where I started.
Satin stitch is time consuming and eats thread up quickly.
Gayle Baxley, Dalton Gardens, ID
I use the buttonhole stitch as well as the zig-zag stitch and try to use as narrow a stitch as possible while touching just on the edge of the piece to attach it to the background. Satin stitch is time consuming and eats thread up quickly. I prefer a lighter stitch for most of the pieces I do.
Margaret (Peg) Parsons, New Castle, DE
I like to use the satin stitch rather than the blanket stitch. I don’t like any fray on the edges of the appliqué which can happen with the blanket stitch.
Gayle Baxley, Dalton Gardens, ID
I like to use the hem stitch on my machine at a very short length and width. My machine does what they call a “lift and pivot.” Every time I stop sewing, my presser foot raises enough to move the fabric. This comes in very handy when doing appliqué.
Patti Goggio, Broadlands, VA
I used to use a satin stitch, but since I got my machine with the blanket stitch, I use that to sew around the edges. Sometimes I will do a free motion stitch around the edges to give some texture, especially if I want a fuzzy look for animals or a more natural edge for leaves and flowers.
Sally Eshelman, York, PA
I have used the buttonhole stitch for machine appliqué, but you must make the stitches very small, or corners and points are difficult.
Stephanie Leuthesser, San Ysidro, CA
I am partial to the machine blanket stitch for my fusible appliqué, but have also used some of my decorative stitches where the particular piece might appropriately call for it. I was doing a block with a mom and baby walrus sitting on an iceberg, and I used a deep sea blue decorative up and down stitch with my 30wt Sulky Blendables, which gave the iceberg some dimension.
Barbara Theriault, Brooksville, FL
I find the use of an open-toe foot wonderful for machine appliqué. You can see exactly where you are going, and it is easy to see the cut edge of the fabric. I love those open-toed feet!
Joan Norfolk, Kilmore, Australia
I always program my needle to finish in the down position. I can pivot easily, and I don’t leave any gaps in my sewing.
I always program my needle to finish in the down position. I can pivot easily, and I don’t leave any gaps in my sewing.
Kerilee Corrie, Ross, Australia
Using transparent thread allows you to see the pieces and not the thread, avoiding errors if you are new to machine appliqué.
Lynn Dyck, Barrie, Ontario
I like to use a thread color that matches the fabric and stitch over the shape 2–3 times each. For pieces that I want to pop, I use a contrasting thread.
Louise Lott, Healesville, Australia
Practice first to warm up every new session. Chances are good you forgot to set something on your machine.
Ellen Mueller, Acton, MA
I always do a sample of the pieces for stitch length and width to see how the stitches lay. I also write down the stitch length and width for future reference.
Mary Ellen Larson, Mary Esther, FL
Being able to regulate your speed is really important for machine appliqué. I also find my knee-lift quite helpful with the needle-down option on my machine.
Nancy Swanwick, Fort Scott, KS
I like Celtic appliqué: cut strips on the bias, sew a seam and tuck it to the back. This method is good for stems and open design work.
Sharon Kelly, Hollywood, FL
F. Raw-Edge Appliqué
When using the zigzag stitch for machine appliqué, be sure the stitch is wide enough and close enough to catch and hide all loose threads.
Jeanne Bartleson, North Augusta, SC
If the raw edge of the appliqué is supposed to fray, stitch ¼” inside the appliqué. If a smooth edge is desired, use an iron on fusible on the appliqué, and keep the stitches quite close together on the very edge of the appliquéd shape.
Marsha Nelson, Clinton, UT
Starch and press, starch and press, and starch and press. Sometimes I will run a line of large stitches along the edge of the fabric, just to keep it from fraying, then pull the stitching out after I’m finished with the project.
Joyce Carey, Waterford, MI
If it is something that will be laundered often and you are not going to satin stitch the edges, use fusible web on the back. Then take a toothpick or a fine artist’s paint brush and lightly edge the appliqué with fray check. Let it dry. Fuse to the quilt with an appliqué pressing sheet, and stitch as desired.
Debbie Henry, Lucinda, PA
For raw edge appliqué, I use either the open-toe embroidery foot or the free motion foot, stitching very close to the edge of the appliqué piece with a straight stitch. It takes patience. Pivot frequently and use a stitch length of 1½–2”.
Diana Miller, Barrie, Ontario
I use a layer of tulle over the entire top when it is completed and quilt through the tulle. It anchors all the raw edges, and they will never come loose.
I use a layer of tulle over the entire top when it is completed and quilt through the tulle. It anchors all the raw edges, and they will never come loose. Tulle is fabulous. It is cheap and comes in so many colors, so you can lighten or darken the quilt depending on the color you choose. I anchor the tulle in the borders because I apply the borders to the tulle-covered quilt top.
Nancy Henry, Rochester, NH
If a frayed, ragged edge is desired, after washing, use a toothbrush to soften the edges of the appliqué.
If you have a lot of raw edge appliqué, such as flannel on top of denim, take the quilt to a laundromat to wash in an oversized machine. A home machine cannot handle the amount of lint that will wash out.
Marti Blankenship, Pleasant Valley, MO
Use a narrow piece of Heat n Bond around the edges of the shape to prevent raveling.
Joan Miller, Richmond, VA
I cut fabrics on the bias, so I get little fraying in machine appliqué.
Barbara Porter, Arroyo Grande, CA
Read a lot, research on the internet, and start small. By that I do not mean small pieces, but small appliqué projects. Make one block. If you like it, turn it into a medallion style wall hanging and move on to something more complex. Many top designers put out books that have a one block project or a good entry level design.
Michelle Harrison, Morganton, GA
While doing hand appliqué, be sure to wax your thread. It will save lots of headaches from tangled thread!
Peggy Nelson, Janesville, WI
Use a needle and a thread to match its size. If your needle eye is big and you are using thin thread, then you will have lots of tiny holes in your fabric you’ll be able to see through. If your needle eye is small and your thread is thicker, then there will be pulling on the fabric and a chance your thread will weaken by being forced through the fabric many times.
Mary Andra Holmes, Prescott, AZ
A blanket stitch done by hand around the edge of a fused piece of fabric looks very special, especially if done with perle cotton.
Valerie Turer, Brooklyn, NY
If you are using a light piece of fabric on a patterned or darker background fabric, cut a lining of muslin and insert it behind your appliqué piece.
Diane Linker, Scarsdale, NY
Find a needle that is comfortable for you. I use 11 straw needles. As you make your appliqué stitches, keep your needle parallel to the edge of the fabric.
Candy Hargrove, Kansas City, MO
If you’re having difficulty removing the backing paper from fusible web adhesive, try scoring the center of the paper with a needle. This slight cut will make it peel off much more easily.
Jan Mast, Lancaster, PA
If accuracy is not your thing, do primitive/folk art appliqué, not Baltimore Album.
Annemarie (Nancy) Poorbaugh, Montgomery, AL
If you want to enhance your appliqué, be willing to pay for custom quilting or quilt your own. An overall edge to edge or pantograph pattern in machine quilting does not enhance the appliqué. I have seen very nice quilts that would have been beautiful if they had been custom quilted instead of an overall pattern.
Mary Beth Schrader, Cameron, MO
One of the best tips given to me in an appliqué class by Sue Garman is to try using the opposite hand if the one you are using doesn’t feel right.
Shelia Smith, Goldthwaite, TX