Binding
A. Choosing a Binding Style
Sometimes I want the binding to disappear and sometimes I want it to stand out, like a miniature frame. I usually can’t pick what will make that happen until the quilt is completed, with backing and whatever quilting design is chosen.
Terri Overton, San Tan Valley, AZ
Think of the binding as a design element. I rarely make the binding the same color as the final border. Consider using decorative stitches on the binding or inserting a ruffle, piping, or flange.
Rachele Howard, Van Buren Point, NY
I like a darker binding, generally speaking, since a quilt reminds me of a picture in a frame.
Olivia Kuebler, Kansas City, MO
Binding is an opportunity to add another design element to your quilt. I love using a scrappy binding, or adding a flange, piping or rickrack. Stripes are always fun and can be cut straight or on the bias.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
For binding a quilt, I always choose the binding fabric after the quilt top is done. I audition several fabrics that I think may look good and a few “wild card” fabrics. I do this until I find the one that I think makes the quilt sing. Your eye should not be drawn to the binding, but instead, the binding should balance the quilt and complete the message you are trying to communicate.
Karen Price, Blackfoot, ID
Some quilts look really good with a fairly wide binding, and some are much nicer with a really narrow one. Fold your binding fabric over and audition it before cutting strips to see which you prefer. It may be different with each quilt you make.
Colleen Froats, Alanson, MI
For a striped binding, I love bias binding. Also, on small quilts where a bulky, double straight binding would look out of place, I use a single fold bias binding.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
I like to audition the binding when my quilting is completed. Sometimes, what I thought would be the perfect binding, just does not work. I gather several fabrics that might work and tuck them under the quilt with just enough of the folded edge showing to mimic binding. I stand back or take a digital photo to see what looks good, and usually the “perfect” frame to my quilt is easy to spot.
Ann Liebner, Pine Grove, PA
For several years, I used a black and white country-style fabric for binding most all of my quilts. It was my signature. But the truth be told, it was easy to cut and fold, using the checks as guides.
Kathy Perry, Sugar Land, TX
I love the look of plaid fabric used in bias binding, especially for manly quilts.
Janice Simmons, Fresno, CA
Match the thread to your binding, not the quilt color.
Bernadette Bird, Oregon, IL
I love to use rickrack in my binding. To keep it in place while stitching, I use a basting glue. Pins distort the seam too much.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
I like for my binding to be a statement, so I rarely bind with a fabric that will be lost among the piecing of the top.
I like for my binding to be a statement, so I rarely bind with a fabric that will be lost among the piecing of the top.
Pam Barman, Magnolia, TX
I like to take one of the bolder, but less prominently used, colored fabrics in my quilt for binding fabric.
Amanda Kei Andrews, Vero Beach, FL
I like to use a couple of different fabrics on the binding, either making two sides the same or making all four different. This helps to bring all the colors and fabrics together.
Grace Lively, Wolf Lake, IL
I like to have a little extra batting on the edge of the quilt so the binding is filled up and not floppy.
Patti Prince, Lake Isabella, CA
I machine stitch the binding front and back. The awesome machines we have now have many decorative stitches that can add to the beauty of a quilt when used on a binding.
Janet Jaeger, Silver Springs, FL
I have done facings on more modern style quilts where I don’t want the stripe that binding adds to a quilt.
Stephanie Greenberg, Lawrenceville, NJ
I think wider binding (at least 3” wide) is easier to work with, makes beautifully mitered corners, and I don’t have to cut off extra batting. It can be worked into the “look” of any quilt.
Roberta Whitcomb, Emmaus, PA
I do not like ¼” bindings because I feel they are generally out of scale with most of my projects. I prefer a ½” finished binding.
Sharon Mountford, Canoga Park, CA
B. Measuring for Binding
I measure the quilt and use the Robert Kaufman iPhone app to determine the number of strips I need to cut. I sew my binding on to the front of the quilt and hand sew it down to the back.
Peggy Quinlan-Gee, Salt Lake City, UT
Fold the quilt in half side to side and measure the width, then double that number. Fold the quilt in half top to bottom, measure that length, and double that number, too. Add those two numbers together for quilt perimeter and add another 10–12”.
Elizabeth Flavin, Wilmington, NC
To figure out the length of binding I need for my quilt, I measure both sides and both tops, add those totals and then add an additional 12” for the mitered corners.
Rita Goff, Asbury, WV
C. Applying Binding
Make sure when you sew the binding to the back of the quilt that you cover the seam from attaching the binding to the front of the quilt. You don’t want it to show on the back of the quilt.
Kathy Kelleher, Kennebunk, ME
Before sewing the binding on, I like to square up the quilt and make sure all my edges are clean and even.
Janet Jaeger, Silver Springs, FL
I always machine sew the binding on to the front of the quilt and hand sew it to the back. I don’t like to see the machine stitches on either side. My hand stitches are very small to make those invisible also. It is a cleaner look.
Sharon Stoddard, Bridgeport, CA
I use straight grain binding, cut 2½” wide. I fold the binding in half, line up the cut edge with the raw edge of the quilt, and stitch with a ¼” seam. I then line up a rotary cutter ruler, placing the ½” mark on the ruler on the seam I’ve just sewn. Then I cut off the rest of the batting and backing (this means there’s ¼” of batting and backing beyond the raw edge of the quilt and binding). I sew each side of the quilt to within ¼” of the end of the edge. When all four sides are sewn on, I sew the corners of the binding to create the miter, trim the corner, wrap the binding over to the back side, then slip-stitch it down by hand.
Nancy Swanwick, Fort Scott, KS
I prefer to sew the binding to the front of the quilt by machine and finish the back with a hand sewn blind stitch. I think it looks neater that way, and I can hand stitch while I watch TV.
Mary Caldwell, Howell, MI
I like to hand stitch the binding. It’s a nice opportunity to visit with my quilt before I give it away.
I finish the back by hand because it is my calm, final, personal touch.
Carol Bordwell, Chewelah, WA
I like to hand stitch the binding. It’s a nice opportunity to visit with my quilt before I give it away.
Ellen Mueller, Acton, MA
When I’m handstitching down the binding on the back, I usually knot along the way, so that if the binding should catch and begin to tear out, it reaches a stopping point quickly, making less binding to repair.
Karen Asman, Martin, OH
Just recently, I have started making my own binding for quilts. I make 1” double-fold binding which I sew to the back side of the quilt with the machine, then fold over and hand stitch to the top. Before this, I left about 4” of the backing all around the outside edge of my quilt top and turned it over and hemmed it with mitered corners. The double fold binding looks neater, but the fold-over hemming is faster.
Jenn Martin, Prattville, AL
My attempts at full machine binding have not always resulted in seams being covered. Often my seams were as wavy as the ocean. I prefer sewing on the raw edges of the binding by machine and then hand stitching the edge in place. I like this because I’m certain that the seam line of the binding and quilt is covered by the binding and that my corners miter smoothly.
Debbie Daugherty-Ball, Salisbury, MD
I choose a spot about two-thirds of the way down the right hand side of the quilt and pin the beginning of the binding. Then I take the binding around the quilt without pinning to check that no binding joins will be at the corners. If they will be, I adjust the starting point of the binding and recheck it. When I’m happy, I sew it on by machine, using my walking foot.
Janice Goodburn, Foxton Beach, New Zealand
Sew a binding with a faux piping/flange by cutting 1½” width of binding fabric and 1¾” of piping fabric, the length needed to go around quilt, plus 10”. Press the seam allowance towards the binding fabric. Fold in half as a normal binding and a ⅛” piping/flange will appear. Machine sew onto the quilt back and bring to front. Use the Sewline or Fons & Porter glue stick to secure the binding down. Machine stitch in the ditch of the piping.
Shari Nyles, Fleetwood, PA
To bind a quilt, I use a 2¼” wide strip cut straight of grain or bias. Stitch it on the front, with the right sides together, using a ¼” seam width. I add a strip of batting cut ¾” and sew with long stitches to the quilt top inside the ¼” seam line. Then I fold the binding to the back, grab my Bernina high/low foot and stitch in the ditch from the front (I have also handstitched the binding to the back). This creates a perfect machine sewn binding that’s a bit poofy—a lovely look!
There’s too much ___________ in my stash and never enough ___________.
There are too many odd-shaped scraps in my stash and never enough continuous yardage.
Jan Mast, Lancaster, PA
There’s too much batik fabric in my stash and never enough 1880 reproductions.
Karen Martin, Breezy Point, MN
There’s too much “going to save for something special” in my stash and never enough “need for the current project.”
Georgia Ricci, Midway, GA
There’s too much fabric in my stash and never enough time to use it. But just looking at and stroking it does the soul good!
Marie White, Waiuku, New Zealand
There are too many overly bold (but beautiful) florals in my stash and never enough blenders.
Laroletta Petty, Breckenridge, CO
There’s too much cat hair in my stash and never enough time to launder.
Kay Hinkelma, Florissant, MO
There’s too much blue in my stash and never enough yellow. And yet when I buy new fabric, I invariably come home with more blue . . . sigh . . .
Nancy Henry, Rochester, NH
There’s too much of everything in my stash and never enough of anything!
Susan Louis, Briarwood, NY
There’s too much happiness in my stash and never enough to make me stop collecting.
Barbara Papp, Kings Park, NY
I run a small basting stitch by hand all around the quilt ⅛” from the edge so it will be covered by the binding. This stitching eases in the edge so it is never rippled.
Diane Johansen, Naperville, IL
I always use double-folded, continuous bias binding. But first, I run a small basting stitch by hand all around the quilt ⅛” from the edge so it will be covered by the binding. This stitching eases in the edge so it is never rippled.
Sharon Nungester, Berwyn, PA
I prefer hand binding quilts for myself because it produces a nice clean look. Charity quilts will get a lot of use and many more washings, so I machine stitch these for extra durability. I use a zigzag stitch which, to me, looks much nicer than a straight stitch.
Nancee McCann, Wilmington, DE
If I’m sewing the binding all by machine, then I sew it to the back and bring it around to the front and topstitch it, usually with a blanket stitch. I find if I stretch the binding just the least little bit, it helps it to lie flatter than if I’m trying to ease it in to fit.
Sally Eshelman, York, PA
I use 2½” doubled bias binding with a ⅜” seam allowance, so when I wrap it to the back, it is a full binding.
Jennifer Padden, Austin, TX
Attach the binding with a ¼” seam all the way around, then when you get ready to sew the ends together, overlap the binding the same width as the binding. If your binding is 2½” wide, overlap it by that much and cut it off. Turn one end 45° and sew it like you did the other strips. When you straighten it out to sew down the last bit, it will be exactly right, and you can’t tell where you started or stopped.
Shirley Valk, Ellerbe, NC
To join the ends of the binding after I sew it on the quilt, I again use the mitered seam. Seams in the binding are not obvious, and the diagonal seams spread the bulk. Then I fold the binding to the back and whipstitch it into place.
Debbie Daugherty-Ball, Salisbury, MD
Always use a double binding and always have it separately attached to the quilt. The very first place a quilt wears is the binding. Having a double thickness will slow down the wear process, and if it is separately attached (as opposed to turning excess backing to the front for a binding), you can always take it off if it does fade or wear and attach a new binding without having to cut the quilt.
Nancy Henry, Rochester, NH
I don’t do one continuous bind. I bind the sides of the quilt first, then the top and bottom.
Yolande Smith, Titusville, FL
I always bind before I quilt. I got into this habit because it seemed like I was always rushing to meet a deadline. You can always cut back on the quilting if you are short of time, but you can never submit a quilt with a partial binding! Then I found I liked not having raveling and stretched edges and block seams popping open as I wrestled the quilt under the needle for machine quilting. It was so much neater, and the quilt didn’t get stretched and distorted.
Valerie Turer, Brooklyn, NY
D. Binding Tools
I use a walking foot to apply all bindings. Careful pinning and slow, but accurate, sewing with gentle stretch-to-fit techniques gets the binding applied.
LynDee Lombardo, Olympia, WA
Even though I pin ahead of my stitching, I still use a stiletto tool to hold the binding firmly in place in front of the needle.
Joyce Finch, Golden, MO
I use a binding tool for joining the binding on the bias. The tool tells you where to cut the binding for a perfect bias fit.
Frances Courson, Maryville, TN
When I’m binding a quilt, I use a piece of wrapping paper tube and neatly wrap my prepared binding around it. When I’m ready to put the binding on the quilt, I put a string or ribbon through the tube, put it around my neck and apply the binding to the quilt. This is much easier than having the long strip on the floor, table, etc.
Nancy Peet, Fairport, NY
I like to use glue sticks (Fons & Porter or Sewline) to secure the binding instead of pins. This allows me to sew the entire binding by machine without the distortion involved with pins.
Shari Nyles, Fleetwood, PA
Using my quilt gloves as I machine sew the binding strip to the right side of the quilt is a great help in keeping the binding from slipping. I can keep my left hand on the quilt while guiding the binding with my right hand.
I use hair clips, the snapping kind, to hold down the binding before I hand-stitch it to the back of the quilt.
Patricia Grimm, New Windsor, NY
When I need to quickly apply a binding, I apply binding initially to the back, fold it to the front, and top stitch on the front, using a #38 Bernina foot. This foot keeps the top stitching straight, and it looks more professional.
Nannette Konstant, Flourtown, PA
I use hair clips, the snapping kind, to hold down the binding before I hand-stitch it to the back of the quilt. It is more effective than pins, and I don’t stab myself.
Joan Trautwein, Belle Mead, NJ
Instead of using the very expensive binding clips meant for quilting, I buy binder clips from an office supply. They are less expensive and hold very well.
Susan Dyer, Ashland, MA
E. Straight Grain Bindings
Unless there are curved quilt edges involved, bias binding, which allows stretch, is unnecessary and overall more challenging to work with. Stick with straight binding unless you’re working with scalloped or curved edges.
Jan Mast, Lancaster, PA
Bias binding is nice for curves, but most of the time, straight binding will work, especially if it is cut length of grain instead of across.
Beth Cates, Carroll, IA
Straight-grain binding is easier to calculate and has fewer seams.
Kris Newlin, West Chester, PA
Some people think bias binding wears better/longer, but my first quilt was on my bed for 15 years, and the straight-grain binding still looks fine after all that time and many washings.
Mary Caldwell, Howell, MI
Straight binding creates fewer “bubbles” or less warping when folded to the back side. Bias binding is best if used on a curved or scalloped quilt edge.
Georgia Ricci, Midway, GA
Straight cut binding is very easy to cut, and usually the grain is not completely straight, so you don’t have to worry about one thread on the end wearing out.
Shirley Valk, Ellerbe, NC
If you have any curves, or maybe your measurements are slightly off, a bias binding is much more forgiving than a straight one.
Sandy Glass, Cibolo, TX
I was taught that bias binding would hold up longer. If a thread breaks, there are thousands more on the bias. If a thread breaks in straight binding, one thread runs all the way down.
Sandy Cornelius, Camarillo, CA
I love a scalloped binding, and they just cannot be done with straight binding. I usually use straight binding for straight edge quilts, though. Bias binding on a straight edge quilt just wastes fabric. To attempt a scallop or other undulating edge with a straight of the grain binding is just foolish. You will find that you can waste fabric that way, too.
Bias binding seems to sort of “hug” the quilt edge into straightness.
Michelle Harrison, Morganton, GA
My favorite binding is a double-fold bias binding because I believe it to be more durable than a straight-of-grain binding. It also seems to sort of “hug” the quilt edge into straightness. I create the binding by cutting a square, and then cutting it in half diagonally. I sew the top and bottom edges into a seam, which is then pressed open. I now have a parallelogram which I take to my cutting board and, folding it in half, cut into 2” strips. I then sew the ends of the strips into seams until I have one long bias strip. I do this instead of creating a continuous bias because I seem to have a better strip of bias when I’m finished.
Ruthie Hoover, Westerville, OH
Bias binding absolutely lays so much nicer with no puckers or wrinkles. And it takes no more fabric to cut on the bias. Should a thread in the fabric break, with bias it crosses on the diagonal, just like seaming on the bias distributes the fullness. It doesn’t leave a straight line that is easily followed. Bias edges don’t unravel either, making it easier to bind with bias.
Karen Asman, Martin, OH
I continue to use a walking foot to apply bias binding, sewing carefully around the curves. If there are inner points, such as the points in the binding of a Double Wedding Ring quilt, I stop my machine at the point and backstitch. Again, adjusting the binding into a miter, I start the machine at the ¼” point, backstitch for a few stitches and then continue on around the curve.
Ruthie Hoover, Westerville, OH
I only use bias when the print is a check or crossgrain stripe, because those look really cool on the bias. Otherwise, crossgrain cut strips work just fine, and I am not left with weird triangle-shaped scraps.
Annemarie (Nancy) Poorbaugh, Montgomery, AL
I do not use bias binding because it’s a waste of fabrics and has too many seams. I have not yet had a binding that has worn out.
Kris Newlin, West Chester, PA
G. Mitered Corners
To miter a corner: stop ¼” from the corner with your stitching and back stitch. Then fold the binding at a 90° angle away from the quilt corner. You will have a triangle at the corner. Then fold the binding down over the triangle and start sewing from the corner down the next side. This little extra piece of fabric gives you a nice mitered corner when you fold it over to the other side to stitch down. When I come to the end of my stitching, I fold back the binding so that it matches the other binding and press. I then align the two pressed pieces right sides together and sew them closed before finishing the edge.
Sandy Howell, Highland, UT
I mark a little dot ¼” from each corner, and I stop stitching at that mark. I then miter the corner by folding straight up away from me. I finger crease and pin, then bring the binding down, lining up to the raw edge of the quilt. I proceed to stitch, being careful of the pin, and then stitch to the next corner.
Teresa Caldwell, Long Valley, NJ
I use a Frixion marker and mark ⅜” from the end of each corner. I also mark the end of the corner. I sew to the first mark, back stitch 3 stitches, sew back to the line, then sew on the diagonal off the edge of the quilt at the second mark. I raise the presser foot, turn the quilt, insert the needle at the first mark (⅜” from the end) and repeat at each corner. When I take the quilt from the machine, I use a seam ripper and take out the stitches that I made on the diagonal. This method ensures a perfect miter each time.
Frances Courson, Maryville, TN
I use the high five method to miter corners: sew to ¼” from the corner, remove quilt from machine, pull the binding up as in a high five movement, line the top up to the edge, lay the binding down, and continue sewing.
Roberta Whitcomb, Emmaus, PA
I use Eleanor Burns’ method. Her books are great, and I always advise new quilters to use them. They are clearly written, with lots of pictures and simple to follow descriptions.
Vickie VanDyken, Everson, WA
When you use binding tape, the corners are so easy to miter and look very neat.
When you use binding tape, the corners are so easy to miter and look very neat. I have just folded over the backing and hemmed with square edges if it complimented the quilt top.
Jenn Martin, Prattville, AL
When I am hand-tacking the binding to the back of the quilt, I remember to close each corner angle on both front and back with a ladder stitch.
Michelle Harrison, Morganton, GA
Be sure to stitch miters closed if the quilt will be judged!
Cathie Shelton, Montgomery Village, MD
Negotiating corners makes me smile—now! I used to avoid it because I never understood written directions. Way too confusing. And then I made friends with the oldest quilter I could locate. She lived on a farm in Kinsman, Ohio. I called her and asked if I could bring cookies and talk quilting. I treasure that day. I learned so much that perfected my quilting skills, including negotiating corners. She handed me a sample that looked like a pot holder and said “Practice.” So I wish I could write perfect directions, but I can’t. But now I’m older and if you bring cookies, we can talk quilting, and I’ll give you a sample to learn from and practice.
Kathy Perry, Sugar Land, TX
If you want to avoid mitering, use a round ruler or even a plate to round off the corners before binding. If the radius of your curve is small, you should use bias binding for a rounded corner, but with a larger radius, straight binding works fine.
Marcia Guza, Brick, NJ