BANDERILLAS

A banderilla is a skewer of olives, green chillies and anchovy. You can add pretty much anything to these three base ingredients – there are millions of different types.

In Bilbao, there are bars where the only food they serve is banderillas. They go perfectly with your first zurito (a very cold, small beer that you drink in two sips, typical of northern Spain), as they are easy to eat, salty and pickle-y. Plus, they make you more thirsty …

Peperoncini peppers are spicy, sour and sweet: you should be able to find them in Spanish and Italian delis, but if you can’t, then jarred pickled red peppers or chillies are a fine substitute. What you’re looking for is that balance between spice and sourness.

Thread the ingredients on to toothpicks: first an olive, then a pickled chilli, another olive and the spicy red pepper. The last thing is always the anchovy/quail egg/tuna/prawn (so that it’s the first thing you put in your mouth). Drizzle with a little olive oil.

A banderilla is meant to be eaten in one mouthful so you get everything together.