Luau at the Hilton Waikoloa Village
With few exceptions, the Big Island tucks in early, all the better to rise at daybreak, when the weather is cool and the roads (and waves) are open. But live Hawaiian music is everywhere, and it’s easy to catch free, engaging hula shows, too, at several open-air resort malls (see “Big Island Shopping,” p. 193).
Kailua-Kona
When the sun goes down, the scene heats up around Alii Drive. Among the hot spots: On the Rocks, next to Huggo’s restaurant, at 75-5824 Kahakai Rd. (www.huggosontherocks.com; 808/329-1493), has Hawaiian music and hula nightly, going until midnight Friday and Saturday and 10pm Sunday. Across the way in the Coconut Grove Market Place, Laverne’s Sports Bar (formerly Lulu’s; www.laverneskona.com; 808/331-2633) draws a 20-something crowd with happy-hour specials, theme nights, and late-night DJs on weekends; it’s open until 2am nightly. Next door, an eclectic mix of musicians—including jazz, country, and rock bands—perform at Bongo Ben’s, 75-5819 Alii Dr. (www.bongobens.com; 808/329-9203), open until 10pm nightly. Rays on the Bay, at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa (p. 147), lures locals and visitors to Keauhou with firepits, a great happy hour, nightly live music, and perhaps best of all, free valet parking.
If your timing is right, your visit will include the best free entertainment on the island: Twilight at Kalahuipua‘a, a monthly Hawaiian-style celebration on the lawn in front of the oceanside Eva Parker Woods Cottage on the Mauna Lani Resort (www.maunalani.com/about/big-island-hawaii-events; 808/881-7911). On the Saturday closest to the full moon, revered entertainers and local kupuna (elders) gather to “talk story,” play music, and dance hula. The 3-hour show starts at 5:30pm, but the audience starts arriving an hour earlier, with picnic fare and beach mats. Bring yours, and plan to share food as well as the fun. Parking is free, too.
The Kohala Coast
All the resort hotels have at least one lounge with nightly live music, usually Hawaiian, often with hula. Members of the renowned Lim Family perform at varying times and venues in the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (p. 155), while award-winning singer Darlene Ahuna sings from 7 to 10pm Tues–Thurs in the Reef Lounge of the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel (p. 152). Lava Lava Beach Club (p. 180) has created a lively scene at the Waikoloa Beach Resort with nightly music and hula right on the sand of “A-Bay.”
Just beyond the resorts, the Blue Dragon, 61-3616 Kawaihae Rd., Kawaihae (www.bluedragonrestaurant.com; 808/882-7771), is a great open-air music spot. Here you can enjoy music—jazz, rock, Hawaiian swing—often with dancing, Thursday through Sunday.
For a uniquely Big Island alternative to a luau, try An Evening at Kahua Ranch (www.kahuaranch.com; 808/882-7954), a barbecue with open bar, line dancing, rope tricks, a campfire singalong, and stargazing, on a working North Kohala ranch. The 3-hour event costs $119 for adults and $60 for kids 6 to 11 (free for kids under 6) with hotel shuttle; drive yourself and it’s $95 and $48, respectively. Festivities start at 6pm Wednesday in summer, 5:30pm in winter.
Hilo & the Hamakua Coast
Opened in 1925, the neoclassical Palace Theater, 38 Haili St. (www.hilopalace.com; 808/934-7010), screens first-run independent movies and hosts concerts, festivals, hula, and theater to pay for its ongoing restoration. Hilo Town Tavern, 168 Keawe St. ( 808/935-2171), is a Cajun restaurant and dive bar open until 2am daily, with a nice pool room and live music (hip-hop to Hawaiian). The tavern supports downtown Hilo’s First Friday Art Walk, the first Friday of each month, when shops and galleries offer music and refreshments until 8pm. The Honokaa First Friday event has a similar format and monthly schedule, with stores open late, sidewalk vendors, and live music from 5 until 9pm.
Puna District
Although the revered founder of Uncle Robert’s Awa Club ( 808/443-6913), Robert Keliihoomalu, passed away in 2015, the bustling Wednesday-night marketplace (5–10pm) continues at his family compound at the end of the road in Kalapana, with live music from 6 to 9pm. Sample the mildly intoxicating awa (the Hawaiian word for kava) at the tiki bar then, or come back Friday night for more live music, starting at 6. In Pahoa, Kaleo’s Bar & Grill 
(p. 191) offers nightly live music, including jazz and slack key.
luaus’ new taste of Old Hawaii
Let’s face it: You may never have a truly great meal at a luau, due to the numbers served, but on the Big Island you can have a very good one, with a highly enjoyable—and educational—show to boot. Buffets now offer more intriguing, tasty items such as pohole ferns and Molokai sweet potatoes, while shows feature more local history, from the first voyagers to paniolo days, plus a spectacular fire knife dance and Polynesian revue. I recommend one of these oceanfront luaus:
•Haleo (www.haleoluau.com) at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa (p. 147) is simply the best in Kailua-Kona (Mon 4:30pm; $95 adults, $45 children 6–12).
•Gathering of the Kings (www.gatheringofthekings.com) at the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii (p. 150), has the best selection of island-style food, including the taro leaf stew that gave lu¯’au their name (Sat 4:30pm; $109 adults, $75 children 5–12).
•Legends of Hawaii (www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com/resort-experiences) at Hilton Waikoloa Village (p. 153) is the most family-friendly, with pillow seating upfront for kids, plus a show-only option (Tues, Fri, and Sun 5:30pm; $112 adults, $102 seniors and teens 13–17, $57 children 5–12; free for children 4 and under); show only, $65 adults, $45 ages 5–12. Prices $2–$5 higher July to mid-Aug.)