10 Taste Rome

INDULGING IN LONG, STRETCHED OUT Roman meals is following a tradition that’s been going on here since ancient times. So go ahead and immerse yourself in the Eternal City’s bold, vibrant flavors.

Traditional dishes to order are:

Pasta: Cacio e Pepe (with pecorino cheese and pepper), Carbonara (guanciale, egg, and cheese), Amatriciana (guanciale, tomato, and cheese)
Vegetables: Carciofi (Artichokes—either alla Giudia, fried, or alla Romana, braised), Puntarelle (a variety of chicory, served with an anchovy/garlic dressing)
Meat: Straccetti di Manzo con Rughetta (strips of beef with arugula), Saltimbocca (veal with prosciutto and sage), Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail stew), Abbacchio (baby lamb)

Favorite Restaurant

Armando al Pantheon, Salita de Crescenzi 31, 06 6880 3034, closed Saturday night and Sunday, reservations essential (www.armandoalpantheon.it)
The location, steps from the Pantheon, is perfect. The atmosphere is always welcoming, and the family here has been making my every visit to Rome delicious for decades. I count on them for my ideal Welcome Back to Rome meal: Cacio e Pepe, Abbacchio a scottadito … always extraordinary.

Favorite Caffès

Antico Caffè Greco, Via Condotti 86 (near Spanish Steps, www.anticocaffegreco.eu)
This ultra-elegant spot was founded by a Greek signor in 1760, thus the name. Amidst the waiters in crisp white jackets, marble tables, and gilded mirrors, check out the photo of Buffalo Bill, whose 1906 visit caused a sensation. Worth the splurge to take a break from Via Condotti window shopping.
Antico Caffè della Pace, Via della Pace 3 (near Piazza Navona, www.caffedellapace.it)
From 1891, you’ll discover a theatrical atmosphere here—both in the interior dark wood bar and on the patio flanked by ivy-covered walls. In the evenings it becomes a hipster gathering spot. Remember Julia Roberts sitting here in Eat Pray Love?

Best Coffee (Near the Pantheon)

These two old school spots offer excellent coffee, with limited seating, as most come for a quick pick me up at the counter or to buy beans to bring home:

Caffè Sant’Eustachio, Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82 (www.santeustachioilcaffe.it)
Many claim they serve the best cappuccino in Rome.
Tazza D’Oro, Via degli Orfani 84 (www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com)
They make a great granita di caffè—iced espresso with whipped cream.

Gelato

Giolitti, Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40 (near the Pantheon)
It’s old fashioned and full of tourists, but I still love the elegant atmosphere and the fruit flavors, slathered with panna (cream), doled out by smiling servers.
Gelateria del Teatro, Via di San Simone 70 (near Piazza Navona)
Tucked in a charming alley off Via Coronari, here owners Stefano and Silvia whip up delicious classic flavors (pistachio and dark chocolate), along with unique creations (lavender or sesame), as well as dairy-free sorbets.
Old Bridge, Viale Bastioni di Michelangelo (Vatican City)
Stop by here for generous scoopage con panna (with whipped cream) and fantastic flavors, conveniently located between the Vatican Museums and Saint Peter’s Basilica.

Chocolate

Moriondo & Gariglio, Via del Piè di Marmo 21-22 (near the Pantheon)
This fairy tale-styled shop near the Pantheon was founded by a family from Turin over a hundred years ago. Sales signorine wear old-fashioned lace caps and box up bon-bons, marzipans, or fruit glaces into beautifully crafted boxes at an old world pace…so don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Bakeries

Forno, Campo dei Fiori 22, open 7:30-2:30, 4:30-8 (www.fornocampodefiori.com)
Be prepared to get in line for the legendary pizza bianca (white pizza)—and they also make great focaccia, pignoli (pine nut) cookies, and fruit tarts.
Valzani, Via del Moro 37, Trastevere, closed Monday and Tuesday mornings
A sweet Roman institution since 1925, specializing in torta sacher, and also offering goodies made with dried fruits and nuts.

Wine Bars

In ancient Rome there were enoteche at every corner, but as the city transformed, the tradition slipped away. In the 1970s a wine bar revival began in the Eternal City. These days, enoteche fill up with working people meeting friends after a long day. Along with your wine, you’ll enjoy such delicious Roman treats as suppli (deep-fried rice croquettes stuffed with cheese) or pecorino cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves.

L’Angolo Divino, Via dei Balestrari 12, closed Monday
A romantic spot behind the Campo de’ Fiori clamor, where you can get great snacks like tuna carpaccio or a delicious meal by candlelight along with choice, reasonably priced wines.
Il Goccetto, Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, open noon-2, 6-midnight, closed Sunday
It’s always packed with locals, many filtering out to the sidewalk, aka the smoking section. Order up at the front counter, then tuck yourself into the cozy backroom, and have owner Sergio pair a cheese plate to match your wine.
Cul de Sac, Piazza di Pasquino 73 (near Piazza Navona)
One of the first of the new wave of Roman wine bars, this place has a list of 1,500 vintages. Get there before 9 p.m. to score an outside table and order a variety of housemade pâtés—a specialty they do well.
Vino Roma, Via in Selci, 84G (between Colosseum and Termini, www.vinoroma.com)
Charming sommelier Hande Leimer and her team host tastings and events to educate travelers from around the world about Italian wines. Tastings are offered in English, German, Japanese, Italian, and Turkish. Offerings include wine and cheese lunches and Wine Wednesdays that focus on different themes.

RESOURCES FOR FOOD IN ROME