WHEN ANCIENT ROMANS GOT TO this lush, forested place, they discovered the Latin tribe before them had been worshipping a female goddess here. The Romans declared the place divine and built a Temple to Diana, Virgin Goddess of Fertility, the Moon, and the Hunt. They called the place Nemi, from the Latin, Nemus, Sacred Grove. They called the lake that bordered the forest the Specchio di Diana (Mirror of Diana), because it so finely reflected the moon above. Women came to the temple to pray for children and easy deliveries.

Today Nemi is known as the smallest and most enchanting village in the Castelli Romani, an area that lies fifteen miles south of Rome. Most of the castelli, castles, from medieval days are long gone, and what remains is a bucolic cluster of sixteen towns and villages, scattered through the gentle Alban Hills. The most famous of the bunch are Frascati (known for its wine), and Castelo Gandolfo, home to the pope’s summer palace.

Long ago the hills were the sides of a volcano, so the land is fertile. Vineyards, orchards, and fields of vegetables and flowers thrive here. Adding beauty to the Castelli Romani are remnants of Roman villas and temples, medieval monasteries, grand churches and Renaissance palazzos.

In the Eternal City’s imperial days, emperors fled up to these hills to escape the summer heat. The most insane of those emperors, Caligula, hell bent on aligning himself with the goddess Diana, had two fantastical ships built on Lake Nemi: one a floating temple to honor her, the other an opulent party boat with marble floors, stately columns, and intricate plumbing. During his short reign, Lake Nemi was The Place to Be for fabulous celebrations. Then Claudius took over as Emperor, and sank Caligula’s ships. They remained protected under water and silt, stirring the imaginations of those who had read about the legendary vessels. Many made pilgrimages here to stare into the lake, hoping to get a glimpse of the ships.

Cut to Mussolini, on his own mad mission to align himself with imperial days, who took on the massive project of draining Lake Nemi to dredge up Caligula’s ships. In 1932, onlookers stood by astounded as these incredible treasures from the ancient world, remarkably well preserved, were revealed to them. The Museo delle Navi Romane was built to display the newly discovered artifacts, and then, tragically, in 1944, the museum was burned by the Germans during a hasty retreat. Still, you can visit the museum and see what remains—including impressive bronze lion heads, a hull that has been rebuilt to show the grandeur of Caligula’s days, and photos of the 1932 excavation. In the nearby forest you can discover ruins of Diana’s temple—columns, mosaic floors, and wall paintings.

Travelers on the nineteenth-century Grand Tour reveled in Nemi’s magical appeal. Turner painted the lake and Lord Byron sang its praises in his poem, Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage:

Lo, Nemi! navell’d in the woody hills . . .
The oval mirror of thy glassy lake; . . .
All coil’d into itself and round, as sleeps the snake.

To add to its allure, there’s a sweet deliciousness. Nemi is famous for fragoline di bosco, wild strawberries, which grow in the forests surrounding the lake. All over the village, shops display abundant baskets of fragoline and every eatery—from bakeries to restaurants—offers fragoline specialties—from tarts, to cakes, gelato, and custards. If you’re lucky to come the first weekend in June, you’ll find a Sagra delle Fragoline, festival, with lovely signorinas in costume dancing about, giving free fragoline to all—as graceful and fun loving as the goddess Diana herself.

Museo delle Navi Romane, Via del Tempio di Diana 13, open Monday-Saturday, 9-7, Sunday 9-1 (www.museonaviromane.it)

In Italy Tours, www.initalytours.com, offers excellent customized tours of the Castelli Romani, including cooking classes, visits to artisans, wineries, and sketching classes if desired.

Golden Day: Stroll through Nemi, stopping at the Bar Panoramico to admire the dreamy view of the lake below, as you enjoy your fragoline treat—I’m partial to a few fragoline dropped into a flute of prosecco to set the mood, though others may prefer the frozen fragoline daiquiri. Take a drive down to the Museo delle Navi Romane and wander in the forest to see the ruins of Diana’s Temple. Continue on to explore more places in the Castelli Romani at your leisure.

Shopping

You have your choice of fragoline-themed souvenirs—including liqueurs and marmalades. There are also some cute handicraft shops, including Sogni nelle Mani, where Signora Maria Di Benedetto makes lace, and even holds lacemaking classes upon request. (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 21, 06 937 5759)

Eating in the Castelli

The traditional Castelli Romani lunch takes place in the town of Ariccia, home to fraschette—casual eateries that in days past were places where the new wine was tasted and customers brought in their own food. These days fraschette specialize in porchetta (roasted spiced pork), and many places serve tasting platters of cured meats and cheeses. You’ll find a bunch of rowdy fraschette with outdoor tables along Via Borgo San Rocco, where, if you order simply (just antipasti), you’ll be okay and can eat a lot for a bargain. Or, for a better lunch, in the central piazza, go to Ariccia De Mi Zia, that serves a low-priced two-course meal—antipasti, pasta, and drinks included. (Via Corso Garibaldi 6, 347 439 6147, reservations a must, www.fraschette-ariccia.it)

For a very special meal, head to Osteria di San Cesario Celebrity Chef Anna Dente, internationally praised as The Queen of Amatriciana, reigns here, deliciously preserving the tradition of authentic Roman cuisine. (Via F. Corridoni 60, San Cesareo, 06 958 7950, closed Monday, www.annadente.it)

TIP: If you come in the warmer months, you can bathe in Lake Nemi, considered sacred waters by the ancients. Have a local show you the best route to get to the bathing spot, as much of the lakeside is private residences.