THE WORLD HAS FALLEN IN LOVE with the wonderful wines of Tuscany and the simple cuisine of the region. Meals in Florence are inspired by Tuscany’s abundant farms, featuring delicious vegetables, beef from prized Chianina cattle, along with extraordinary olive oil and cheeses.
Traditional dishes to order are:
My Favorite Restaurant
This down-to-earth trattoria has been around since 1869 and is always packed with locals and travelers, many who have been coming here for generations. Order their specialty starter, tortino di carciofi (artichoke flan), followed by bistecca and chicken cooked in butter, and save room for the meringue cake dessert. There are two dinner times, 7:30 and 9:45, where you’re seated at communal tables in the white-tiled dining room. It’s a great spot for solo travelers—I’ve always met wonderful people here—all of us reveling in the lively atmosphere and outstanding flavors.
Caffès
This began as a confectioner’s shop in 1733, and moved to this central piazza in the early 1900s. Now it’s an elegant place to have your espresso in airy belle époque surroundings, served by waiters in crisp white jackets. Their chocolates and pastries are delizioso.
A caffè storico letterario (historic literary caffè) where the Italian futurist movement blossomed in the early twentieth century. It’s traditionally been a meeting place for intellectuals from around the world, and hosts book signings, art exhibits, and performances. Dark wood, marble tables, and tiled floors mix to create a warm, welcoming Old World atmosphere.
Superstar chef Fabbio Picchi reigns at a group of award-winning restaurants clustered here—Cibreo, Trattoria Cibreo, Teatro del Sale (a dinner theatre), and this beautiful caffè. It’s perfect for a pick me up on your way to the Sant’ Ambrogio market, though you may want to linger and indulge in their outstanding selection of pastries . . . and you may even be tempted to stay for lunch.
Gelato
A signor who once ran the revered Vivoli now runs this little place nearby, serving great fruit flavors and delicious profiteroles.
The location may seem too good to be true, but whenever I ask locals “Where’s the best gelato?” “Carrozze” is their answer. From what I’ve tasted, they’re absolutely right. The fruit flavors change with the seasons, and the charming staff is sweet about offering tastes to help you decide what to order.
Another local favorite where the prices are low and quality is tops.
Chocolate
There’s a lively energy at this tiny shop where molto bello owner Leonardo doles out artisan chocolates that include unusual creations made with flavors like Earl Grey and chile. Wonderful stop for hot chocolate in the winter, and the gelato here is fantastico, which you should order affogato, topped with their to-die-for hot chocolate sauce. Candies are packaged in Tiffany-blue boxes and make great gifts.
Wine Bars
What with all those wonderful vineyards surrounding the city, Florence has a long-standing tradition of wine shops that would always serve their customers glasses of vino and snacks. These old-style wine bars are called fiaschetteria, from the word fiasche, meaning straw-covered chianti bottles. (I’ll date myself with the sweet memory of turning those bottles into candlesticks to add a romantic touch to a dorm room.) Whether you get to a fiaschetteria or newer place, you’ll be drinking some of the best wines in Italy and eating delectable Tuscan cheeses, salamis, and panini.
This humble place, tucked behind the San Lorenzo Market, hasn’t changed since I first walked in more than twenty years ago. Then I stood alongside the workmen, had a tumbler of wine and anchovy panini, and got an ecstatic feeling that I’d discovered a hidden treasure. It’s in every guidebook now and gets crowded with tourists. But the Migliorini family, who have owned it for seventy years, keeps things traditional, and those delicious panini continue to be a not-to-be-missed Florentine treat.
The sommelier and his partners who run this place are committed to be like volpi (foxes) and seek out new, high-quality, small wine producers. Get in on their discoveries that you’ll enjoy with gourmet nibbles: delicious cheeses and cured Tuscan meats.
A perfect stop after a sunset walk to Piazzale Michelangelo, this casual place has an outstanding selection of wines from all over Italy and beyond. It gets packed with locals at dinner, and also serves delicious small plates of Tuscan specialties, salads, and homemade cakes.
Wine Bar, Caffè, and Bakery
A delicious find between the Duomo and Piazza Signoria. It’s a restored Florentine bakery, taken over by the family who owns the esteemed Verrazano winery in Chianti. One side is a bakery with the original woodburning oven, turning out delicious focaccia, pastries, and cookies, served with Piansa coffee (Florence’s best). On the other side, you can sit and taste award-winning wines with delicious Tuscan snacks.
RESOURCES FOR EATING IN FLORENCE
The Curious Eater: www.thecuriouseater.com
Divina Cucina: www.divinacucina.com (Click About Judy to find her “Florence for Foodies” recommendations)