Walk to Piazzale Michelangelo

If you reach the Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset, when the sky does that great show of gold-turquoise-rose, you realize that the Renaissance painters weren’t making anything up—the light here is simply that magical. The panoramic view is one of the most photographed in the world: Arno, Ponte Vecchio, Duomo, red rooftops...

The climb up the winding pathways and steps to get there is well worth the effort, taking about half an hour, depending on your pace. My walk begins by crossing over the Ponte delle Grazie (near Santa Croce) to Via di San Niccolo, then up to the gate in the old city walls (Porta San Miniato). From there you continue left and can detour to the Rose Garden, for a relaxing break on the grass, surrounded by fragrant blooms and the recent addition of bronze statues by the surrealist Belgian artist, Jean-Michel Folon, adding a unique touch to the landscape. If you’re there in May, the Iris Garden next to it will be open, with splendid displays of violets, golds, and blues—a tribute to the flower that symbolizes Florence.

Up at the Piazzale, there might be a mob scene of tourists, buses, and schlocky souvenir stands, but there’s plenty of space for you to find a spot away from that and take in your reward of a view. The Piazzale was built in 1869 when Florence became the capital of Italy. The original plan was to make it a Michelangelo tribute, with bronze casts of his sculptures up there. They only made it as far as the David, and the museum that was to hold the art became La Loggia caffè, a good place for a caffè or cocktail…but not recommended for eating!

Go farther uphill to discover one of the oldest churches in Florence: San Miniato al Monte. It was named in honor of Minas, an Armenian Prince, who was beheaded for his Christian beliefs. Apparently that didn’t faze him—the story goes that he simply carried his head across the Arno and up this hill.

The church façade is done up in pretty green and white marble, Santa Maria Novella style, and the cavernous inside has a cool, evocative vibe, with thirteenth-century mosaics at the altar and beautiful frescos by Taddeo Gaddi, a student of Giotto. If your timing is right (usually at 10 A.M. and 5:30 P.M.), you’ll hear the Benedictine monks singing vespers, their voices echoing off the stones. Their monastery is next door, as well as their farmacia, selling their handmade candles, jams, and liqueurs.

San Miniato al Monte, Via delle Porte Sante 34, open daily 7 till sunset, in winter closed 1-3:30 (www.sanminiatoalmonte.it)

Farmacia Monastica (Next to San Miniato al Monte), open daily 10-12:15, 3:30-6

Biking in Florence with Florencetown

The historic center of Florence—a flat, cobblestoned, pedestrian-only zone—seems perfect for biking. It certainly is, if you know your way around the zig-zag of streets, the tourist crowds, and licensed vehicles that may pop up by surprise. If you’re new here, signing up for a guided bike tour with Florencetown is the best way to blend in with the local cycling culture. You’re set up with vintage bikes, complete with bells and baskets, as well as a headset, to get directions and commentary. Over the next two and a half hours, the charming, native guide stops you at key spots along the way, to share his or her passion and knowledge of Florentine history. It’s a great way to orient yourself when you arrive, and it ends with a free gelato. All touring should be this much fun.

Bike Tours with Florencetown: www.florencetown.com

Golden Day: Time your walk to get to Piazzale Michelangelo for the sunset, with a leisurely stop at the Rose Garden and a look around San Miniato. On the walk down, stop in at the Fuori Porta wine bar, where you’ll have an extensive choice of wines by the glass and can enjoy delicious Tuscan cheeses and salami. (Via Monte alle Croce 10r, open daily 12:30-midnight)