WITH SO MANY WONDERFUL ARTISANS in Florence, there are opportunities for you to become an apprentice to a master, joining in on traditions of craftsmanship that have been practiced here for centuries. You can sign on for a taste of it for a few hours, or immerse yourself in the hands-on experience for weeks, or as long as you wish.

Some suggestions:

Leather Making at Scuola del Cuoio

A morning at Scuola del Cuoio taught me the true meaning of “tough as leather.” Believe me, I learned from my class that a bad steak is a cinch to cut compared to the leather journal cover I labored over at the scuola for an entire morning. Forever I am grateful to my teacher, master Carlo, Papa Patience, who guided me step by step through the challenge that ended with triumph: a souvenir journal that brings back fond memories of Florence.

The scuola is in a building that was a monastery in Renaissance days, tucked behind the Santa Croce church, in an area where leather making in Florence first began. It was founded by the Gori family in 1950, as an artisans’ school for boys who’d been orphaned after World War II. The goal was to teach them a trade so they could earn a practical living. The Goris teamed up with Franciscan friars to create the scuola, turning the monk’s dormitories into a workshop. And not just any old dormitory—it was built by the Medici in the fifteenth century. The upstairs section, open to visitors, is a gorgeous fresco-lined hall, where senior artisans at old-fashioned wooden workstations turn out some of the best handcrafted leather to be found in Florence, which, by the way, is conveniently for sale in the adjoining rooms. The descendants of the founder—three elegant Gori daughters and a grandson—expertly run the place.

Downstairs is the workshop, where my lesson took place, amidst the pros and some other students. Across the room from me were two happy American gals, here for the scuola’s longer programs (three months), who were turning out adorable purses.

Once I got the slowed down pace of the process, I fell into my hours there, with pazienza, pazienza, pazienza. Cutting the leather was the hardest, and then Carlo took me through each step that followed, with exacting instructions for folding, pressing, hammering holes along the border.

After the days I’d spent running around Florence, looking at stupendous masterpieces, this detailed work took me into another dimension. As I sat there, focused on pulling one thin strip of leather through tiny holes of the journal cover to make a braided edge, I gave in to “leather-crafting” time. The room had an overwhelming scale of aromas—from the deep smell of leather to top notes of nose-tingling glue. Church bells rang. It was simply divine to be there.

My journal cover finished, Carlo gave me a warm “Congratulations,” filled it with fine blank Florentine paper, then walked me to a workbench where Bosco, a venerable, bald-headed artisan, performed his magic over it—with egg white, a flame, and twenty-two-carat gold. He handed it back to me, transformed: with my embossed initials in gold—a lasting reward for hours of pazienza, pazienza.

Scuola del Cuoio, Piazza di Santa Croce 16, 055 244 533
Half-day, full-day, three-month, and six-month courses. This is also a great place to see artisans at work and buy beautiful handcrafted leather, particularly handbags. They also expertly tailor jackets and can custom make anything your heart desires. (www.scuoladelcuoio.com)

Jewel on the Arno/Jewelry Courses in Florence

Ken Scott, originally from New Zealand, is an artisan who has worked for major jewelry companies in Florence for fourteen years. He has also branched out on his own, creating an exquisite jewelry line, and teaches the craft at Florence’s prestigious professional institutions. Recently he opened his own workshop/school, in a well-equipped studio, where students can come for programs (from two weeks to three months), learn about the history of jewelry making in Florence, and receive individual instruction—depending on their level—to master the art of jewelry making.

As Ken puts it: “The purpose is not to learn just how to make jewelry, but how to become a jeweler.” He’s praised by his students for his great sense of humor and expert attention and guidance.

Jewel on the Arno: www.kenscottdesign.com