A DREAM HAS COME TRUE FOR FLORENCE: the opening of the Nuovo Teatro dell’Opera, a venue that’s been praised as “the most avant garde opera house in the world.” It’s the new home of Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Italy’s oldest arts festival (www.operadifirenze.it), that now has an extended season of opera, music, and dance—so check the website to see what will be playing when you’re there. Another big theater in the historic center is Teatro Verdi (www.teatroverdionline.com), which presents everything from visiting symphony orchestras, to Broadway shows, and children’s theater.

Like Rome and Venice, Florence also has a tradition of excellent chamber orchestras performing in churches. Some favorite intimate venues for music are:

Classical Music and Opera

• Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina–Chiesa di Orsanmichele

  Critically acclaimed as the best chamber orchestra in Europe, this forty-piece ensemble performs chamber music and symphonic concerts, from such composers as Pergolesi, Schubert, Beethoven, and Haydn. Star guest musicians often add flash to the bill. It’s on a grander scale than most “music in churches” experiences, but fitting for the vast Orsanmichele, a granary turned Gothic sanctuary. Performances take place March through October. (www.orcafi.it)

• Opera at Saint Mark’s English Church

  No binoculars are needed for the operas that are performed in this church that was once part of a Medici palace. Four or five top singers perform evenings of classics—including La Traviata, Boheme, or Carmen, and also concerts of opera duets. The acoustics are great and drinks are served at intermission—it’s an experience that has been known to convert “I hate opera” people. (www.concertoclassico.blogspot.com)

• Amici della Musica is an organization that presents chamber music at the seventeenth-century jewel box in the Oltrarno, Teatro della Pergola, or a smaller former ballroom, the Salonico, beloved by soloists for its excellent acoustics. (www.amicimusica.fi.it)

Jazz

• Jazz Club Firenze

  You’ll be mixing with the locals for a bargain here—a five euro cover gets you a table and your first drink. Shows change nightly—from jazz jams to blues to folk. Snacks only served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. (Via Nuova de Caccini 3, shows start at 10:30 P.M.-5 A.M., Tuesday-Sunday, 339 498 0752)

  
• Golden View Open Bar

  Cocktails, jazz, and great views of the moonlight shimmering on the Arno. Yes, it’s packed with tourists and a bit pricier than other places, but the music quality is high and the location perfect. (Via de Bardi 58, 055 214 502, Jazz on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 9 P.M. If you’re having dinner, reservations are recommended. www.goldenviewopenbar.com)

For entertainment listings: www.theflorentine.net, www.firenzeturismo.it