46 Shopping in Venice

THE SHOPPING SCENE IN VENICE reflects its magical essence. Glass making, lace making, and mask making are traditional crafts that have flourished here since Renaissance days. That said, lots of what you’ll see for sale is made in China. If you want the real thing, it’s worth seeking out authentic shops and spending your euros for a lasting treasure.

Here’s a selection of some of La Serenissima’s most beautiful places to browse and buy:

Glass Shopping on Murano

Glass making came to Venice in the Middle Ages, through traders from the Middle East. By the thirteenth century, to prevent fires from flaring up on the mainland, factories were moved to the nearby island of Murano, where you will find them still thriving today.

A visit to Murano makes for a fun trip. From the Fondamente Nove, it’s a ten-minute vaporetto ride.

Stop by the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) for stunning displays of glass through the ages—from first-century Persian pieces to wild twentieth-century creations. This is also where you can sign up to see the awesome art of glassblowing in action—check the website for times.

It’s best to visit the island in the morning, before throngs of tourists arrive, who’ve been lured by offers of free trips to factories. Beware that these free trips, offered by many hotels, typically begin with impressive artisan demonstrations and then turn into hard sells in the showrooms.

And do stop in at Murano’s Santa Maria church—the Basilica Santa Maria e Donato, a tenth-century Byzantine masterpiece, one of the oldest churches in Venice. Legend says it was built by order of Emperor Otto, to thank the BVM for saving his ship in a storm.

Museo del Vetro: Fondamenta Marco Giustinian 8, open daily 10-5 (www.museovetro.visitmuve.it)

Some Favorite Murano Shops

TIP: To ensure you’re getting real Murano glass, look for the Marchio del Cetro Artistico di Murano stamp. This means it has passed quality control inspections, and was made based on original Muranese tradition.

Lace Shopping in Burano

The island of Burano has been world famous for lace making since the 1500s. The Venetian legend goes that it started when a man who was heading off to sea gave his beloved an intricate piece of seaweed. Pining for him, she took out her needle and copied the design. The more practical story is that these island women were experts at mending their husband’s fishing nets, so when lace making came along, they took to it naturally.

Now Burano, a twenty-five minute vaporetto ride from Venice, is covered in lace shops. Stop by the Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) to start your shopping expedition. There’s a great video about the history of lace making and elegant displays. Best of all, there are senior citizen signoras working there who have been making lace all their lives. The star of them is Emma Vidal, a 97-year-old spunky type, who makes lace without wearing glasses. “The young people don’t do this anymore,” she grumbled, when I sat next to her, marveling over her quick stitching technique. “All they want to do is dance in the discoteca!”

Museo del Merletto, Piazza Baldassare Galuppi 187, open April-October, 10-6, November-March, 10-5, closed Mondays (www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it)

TIP: The lace making signoras take a lunch break, so stop by between 10 and noon or 2-3:30 to see them.

Lace Shops in Burano

In Venice

Masks

Jewelry

Paper

Leather

Gloves

Shoes

Eye Glasses

Perfume

Clothes, and More

Books

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Golden Day: Vaporetto to Burano and enjoy wandering amidst the colorful homes along the canals and lace shops, making a stop at Museo del Merletto to watch the lacemaking signore in action. Have lunch at Trattoria al Gatto Nero, for charming service and great seafood, prepared with risotto, grilled, or fried. (Fondamenta Giudecca 88, 041 730 120, closed Monday, www.gattonero.com)