THE SHOPPING SCENE IN VENICE reflects its magical essence. Glass making, lace making, and mask making are traditional crafts that have flourished here since Renaissance days. That said, lots of what you’ll see for sale is made in China. If you want the real thing, it’s worth seeking out authentic shops and spending your euros for a lasting treasure.
Here’s a selection of some of La Serenissima’s most beautiful places to browse and buy:
Glass Shopping on Murano
Glass making came to Venice in the Middle Ages, through traders from the Middle East. By the thirteenth century, to prevent fires from flaring up on the mainland, factories were moved to the nearby island of Murano, where you will find them still thriving today.
A visit to Murano makes for a fun trip. From the Fondamente Nove, it’s a ten-minute vaporetto ride.
Stop by the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) for stunning displays of glass through the ages—from first-century Persian pieces to wild twentieth-century creations. This is also where you can sign up to see the awesome art of glassblowing in action—check the website for times.
It’s best to visit the island in the morning, before throngs of tourists arrive, who’ve been lured by offers of free trips to factories. Beware that these free trips, offered by many hotels, typically begin with impressive artisan demonstrations and then turn into hard sells in the showrooms.
And do stop in at Murano’s Santa Maria church—the Basilica Santa Maria e Donato, a tenth-century Byzantine masterpiece, one of the oldest churches in Venice. Legend says it was built by order of Emperor Otto, to thank the BVM for saving his ship in a storm.
Museo del Vetro: Fondamenta Marco Giustinian 8, open daily 10-5 (www.museovetro.visitmuve.it)
Some Favorite Murano Shops
This prestigious institution has been family run since 1911 and produces gorgeous millefiori, thousand flower pieces, whereby glass is infused with colorful patterns. A great stop for beads and decorative plates.
These sisters bring chic modern style and rich colors to glass making, offering beautiful jewelry and tableware.
Famed glass makers Carlo Moretti and Venini are showcased beautifully in this shop where you can buy their products at discounted prices.
TIP: To ensure you’re getting real Murano glass, look for the Marchio del Cetro Artistico di Murano stamp. This means it has passed quality control inspections, and was made based on original Muranese tradition.
Lace Shopping in Burano
The island of Burano has been world famous for lace making since the 1500s. The Venetian legend goes that it started when a man who was heading off to sea gave his beloved an intricate piece of seaweed. Pining for him, she took out her needle and copied the design. The more practical story is that these island women were experts at mending their husband’s fishing nets, so when lace making came along, they took to it naturally.
Now Burano, a twenty-five minute vaporetto ride from Venice, is covered in lace shops. Stop by the Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) to start your shopping expedition. There’s a great video about the history of lace making and elegant displays. Best of all, there are senior citizen signoras working there who have been making lace all their lives. The star of them is Emma Vidal, a 97-year-old spunky type, who makes lace without wearing glasses. “The young people don’t do this anymore,” she grumbled, when I sat next to her, marveling over her quick stitching technique. “All they want to do is dance in the discoteca!”
Museo del Merletto, Piazza Baldassare Galuppi 187, open April-October, 10-6, November-March, 10-5, closed Mondays (www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it)
TIP: The lace making signoras take a lunch break, so stop by between 10 and noon or 2-3:30 to see them.
Lace Shops in Burano
Come here for lace blouses in beautiful colors and stylish designs, and a wonderful selection of table and bed linens. There is also an attached museum of antique lace. It’s close to the vaporetto landing, and their back garden is a pleasant place to enjoy a caffè and those special Buranesi cookies.
Gorgeous bed and bath linens in this ultra-elegant shop.
In Venice
Masks
A floor-to-ceiling extravaganza of authentic Venetian masks. They also offer mask-making workshops that immerse you in this beautiful artisan tradition.
Jewelry
Marisa Convento’s welcoming shop is filled with her beautiful and imaginatively designed glass jewelry, along with beaded purses and slippers. In addition, she loves to meet travelers and share her knowledge and passion for Venice—so you may also get museum and restaurant recommendations from this Signora Congeniality of Venice shopkeepers.
Gloria’s jewelry blends a playful and glamorous style, with vibrant pins, bracelets, and necklaces.
Sara Visman, whose ancestors were Murano glassmakers, brings a modern, bold twist to her jewelry designs.
Paper
Here rich colors are blended as brilliantly as those on a Pavone’s (peacock’s) tail, then hand stamped on to paper. You can buy sheets suitable for framing, sheets of paper stamped with gold-flecked geometric or floral patterns, picture frames, neckties, journals, and stationery.
Paolo is a true Venetian artisan who makes such classic, beautiful things as journals covered with intricately hand-tooled leather, Byzantine-patterned paper, and stationery decorated with etchings of Venetian landmarks.
Leather
Anna Maria Urbani and her husband get the finest leather from Tuscany to make purses here, which range from chic cocktail designs to handsome portfolios for men. I love the latest lines that have sleek outer pockets to slip in your tablet or e-reader.
Gloves
Here you’ll find top quality leather gloves in a range of styles—from polka-dot to fur lined, in every color imaginable. Snatch up a pair to take the Venice chill away.
Shoes
Giovanna was a student of the famous, eccentric Venetian shoemaker, Rolando Segalin. Her creations show his influence—including wacky styles of curved pointed shoes and ones that look like gondolas. But she’s branched out to include designs that you would wear more often and can custom-design shoes for you. You may just want to snatch up what’s on the shelves of her adorable boutique—from sneakers to evening wear, and even hats and dresses.
Eye Glasses
Come for unique, custom-designed eyewear—from classic to vintage to funky, in great colors and patterns, reasonably priced.
Perfume
The esteemed Venetian Mavive perfume company created this line to pay homage to the Renaissance days when Venice was famous for its perfume laboratories. The shop is in a beautiful centuries-old pharmacy, where you can have your perfume custom-designed by scent specialists.
Clothes, and More
This non-profit boutique carries the creations of the Casa di Reclusione Femmnile (women’s prison of Giudecca), who have been trained to become excellent tailors, making clothes and accessories, using gorgeous fabrics. The prices are surprisingly low for the high quality, and all profits go to support the education of the prisoners.
San Marco 2403, Calle Larga XXII and in Dorsoduro 180/A, near Punta della Dogana (www.venetiastudium.com)
Both shops are stocked with exquisite Fortuny-inspired lamps, pillows, tablerunners, purses, and scarves—all exclusively made in Venice.
Books
This recently opened, welcoming shop carries on the great tradition of the connection between Venice and the English literary world. It’s well stocked with English-language titles and has a good selection of children’s books.
Golden Day: Vaporetto to Burano and enjoy wandering amidst the colorful homes along the canals and lace shops, making a stop at Museo del Merletto to watch the lacemaking signore in action. Have lunch at Trattoria al Gatto Nero, for charming service and great seafood, prepared with risotto, grilled, or fried. (Fondamenta Giudecca 88, 041 730 120, closed Monday, www.gattonero.com)