VENICE HAS LONG BEEN PRAISED as a grand place for music. In its eighteenth-century party heyday, there were seventeen opera houses here, filled to the rafters with a mix of courtesans, merchants, and noblemen.

Remaining beauties of those days are:

• La Fenice, one of the most famous opera houses in the world. Fenice means phoenix—the mythological bird that rose from the ashes—as the theatre was built in 1792 over another that had burned. The name may have cast a spell on this place, as there were devastating fires again in 1836 and in 1996 that destroyed it. Each time the theatre was rebuilt, with the recent 90 million euro job completed in 2003, restoring the treasure to its original splendor. Along with opera, symphony concerts are performed here throughout the year (www.teatrolafenice.it).
• Teatro Malibran, from 1678, is another gorgeous venue for opera and classical music. It was named in honor of the soprano Maria Malibran, who found the theatre in horrible condition when she came here to sing in 1835, so she kindly offered her salary to use to repair the building. (www.teatrolafenice.it)
• Teatro Goldoni was named in honor of the Venetian playwright Carlo Goldoni, and his Commedia dell’Arte plays are performed here, as well as children’s shows, dance, concerts, and contemporary plays (www.teatrostabileveneto.it).

Chamber Music

Venice reveres Vivaldi, that romantic baroque musician of Four Seasons (Quattro Stagioni) fame, who was born here in 1678. He was a revolutionary composer, boldly bringing emotion to the violin and its sister string instruments—from heights of joy to depths of melancholy. His ornate music matches the Venetian spirit.

All over Venice you’ll see posters for chamber ensemble performances where Vivaldi is the headliner. And there will often be other greats such as Corelli, Rossini, and Mozart on the bill. You’ll also be approached by beaming costumed folks who are putting on Vivaldi shows. To put it as nicely as possible, the costumed folks are not who I mean when I’m talking great Vivaldi in Venice, so don’t confuse them with the authentic chamber ensembles.

Tickets are easy to get online, at tourist kiosks, or through your hotel; I’ve also done fine off-season just showing up right before the concert. Performance nights vary, and most starting times are 8:30ish.

• Interpreti Veneziani—Chiesa San Vidal, San Marco (www.interpretivenziani.com)

  The very best! An exuberant ensemble that’s received critical raves internationally since they came onto the scene in 1987. The seventeenth-century church setting is enriched with paintings from Carpaccio and other Venetian masters.

• Ensemble Antonio Vivaldi—Chiesa di San Giacometto, Rialto (www.ensembleantoniovivaldi.com)

  The cherry red interior of one of Venice’s oldest churches makes for an especially romantic experience. This is also an exceptionally well-heated venue, perfect for a chilly night.

• Collegium Ducale—Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa (Rialto) or Palazzo delle Prigioni, San Marco (www.collegiumducale.com)

  This excellent seven-piece ensemble presents programs of Baroque music and concerts of soloists singing arias in two locations, including a building that was once added on to the Doge’s Palace to be used as prisoners’ cells.

• Musica a Palazzo, Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto, Fondamenta Duodo o Barbarigo (San Marco, Giglio Vaparetto stop), 340 9717272 (www.musicapalazzo.com)

  In the splendid setting of this opulent palace, you’re immersed in the passion of classic operas performed by a stellar ensemble.

Jazz

• Venice Jazz Club, Ponte dei Punghi, San Barnaba (near Ca Rezzonico vaporetto stop), 340 150 4985, closed Thursday and Sunday (www.venicejazzclub.com)

  There’s a great house jazz band in residence at this welcoming spot that plays a mix of standards, Latin, and blues, with quality guest musicians joining in. Twenty euros gets you your first drink and a table for the evening. Snacks are served before the shows start at 9 P.M.

Also

• Caffè Florian, Piazza San Marco (www.caffeflorian.com)

  It’s worth the splurge to settle in with a cocktail at this extraordinary caffè from 1720 and pay the six-euro surcharge when the orchestra is playing. This will be an evening for the memory books.

• Venice Biennale

  Every two years, the odd ones, Venice hosts an international exhibition of contemporary artists, which also includes film and performance events. (www.labiennale.org)

  Venice musical events: www.musicinvenice.com