THE APPROACH TO ASOLO (pronounced AHH-zow-low), up a curvy road through a forest, is absolutely fairytale-ish. It leads you to an idyllic postage-stamp-sized historic center: Happy locals sitting on the terrace of the Caffè Centrale, a fountain, bell tower, two-story stone buildings bedecked with colorful flower boxes, a medieval castle perched in the near distance. As you explore, it immediately lives up to its nickname: “City of One Hundred Horizons”—you can’t walk two minutes without finding yourself gasping over a stunning view of vineyards and olive groves below you, with snow-capped mountains in the distance.
The strongest Asolo attraction for me is that it has been enriched through history by three extraordinary women: a queen, an actress, and an adventurous travel writer. Adding to that are feminine spiritual touches—a tiny church honoring Saint Anne (mother of Mary), another dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria, and a central cathedral dedicated to the BVM of the Assumption. All this is packed into an area that could easily be scoped out in an hour. But Asolo is a place that lures you to linger. It’s a perfect complement to the labyrinth of Venice, as it’s impossible to get lost in the quiet, pedestrian-friendly vias of the village.
Starting at the Cathedral, you’ll find ten BVM paintings and sculptures. The most bizarre is a fifteenth-century Assumption panel by Lorenzo Lotto. Here Mary is not the pretty BVM we are accustomed to. In fact she is shockingly elderly. Why? She was modeled after the artist’s patron, Caterina Cornaro, Extraordinary Woman Number One, the Ex-Queen of Cyprus, who famously reigned in Asolo from 1489 to 1509.
The story goes that in the fifteenth century, Venice very much wanted control of Cyprus, as the island was perfectly positioned to control Mediterranean trade routes. Rather than fight, the Venetians offered Caterina Cornaro, the fourteen-year-old daughter of a noble family, to the King of Cyprus, James II. James accepted, so Caterina was married off, but didn’t actually meet him until four years later when she arrived in Cyprus for a face-to-face wedding. One year later, James died, leaving pregnant Caterina to rule. She gave birth to a boy who mysteriously died before his first birthday. The Venetians got nervous about Caterina holding power without an heir, fearing she’d betray them and turn over the reins to the Neapolitans or the Cypriots. So they offered her to gracefully abdicate: “Honey, how about leaving Cyprus and becoming the Lady of Asolo (that wealthy wool factory center north of Venice), in that beautiful area where we all go to summer? You’ll have a castle, a good allowance, a court, soldiers, fresh air.... Just give us Cyprus!”
Caterina agreed and arrived in Asolo with much pageantry, and great stories for all about her reign on the exotic island of Cyprus. Over her twenty-year stint, she turned the place into an artistic center, inviting such masters to her court as Lotto (painter of that Assumption) and the poet Bembo (author of Gli Asolani). Even the first lady of the Renaissance, Isabella d’Este, came from her palace in Mantua to pay Caterina a visit.
Asolo’s attraction as an artsy place stuck from the days of Caterina’s reign. In the ninteenth century, the actress Eleonora Duse, aka The Divine Duse, Extraordinary Woman Number Two, found it perfect for a getaway from the limelight. This Italian legendary beauty was born in Piedmont to actor-par
ents, joined the family business, then burst forth with a whole new approach to the art of acting. She threw away the poses and oratorical style of the day and became the first modern actress—mining emotional truths within to create performances that stunned audiences and inspired playwrights from Shaw to Chekhov to Ibsen. During breaks, Duse would stay with friends in Asolo, and finally decided to build a villa here. Unfortunately, she never had the chance to live in it, dying at the age of sixty-six in Pittsburgh during an American tour. Still, her beauteous image is honored all over Asolo—with paintings and photos in restaurants and shops, and a theatre named in her honor. It’s also a kick to see the Duse display in the museum, which includes personal goodies such as the shawl she wore in A Doll’s House and her knitting needles from Ghosts.
Extraordinary Woman Number Three is Freya Stark, whose villa you will pass as you drive into Asolo. Freya was British, a revolutionary travel writer, photographer, Arabist, and explorer—famous for her adventures in the Middle East. She had fallen in love with Asolo as a child in the early 1900s when her parents took her there to stay with their friend, the poet Pen Browning. Pen’s father Robert had bought a villa in Asolo after his wife, Elizabeth Barrett died. (Read more about that in the Casa Guidi-Florence chapter.)
Following decades of adventures, Freya chose to settle down in her beloved Asolo. She died here in 1993, so you can still meet locals who knew her. Today you can tour the exotic garden she kept in the back of her villa, where there are also ruins of a Roman amphitheatre.
A lovely walk from the cathedral through the piazza leads you to the Church of Saint Caterina, where you can admire fourteenth-century frescos. Then you’ll pass the door of Duse’s villa, Villa Cipriani where Queen Elizabeth stayed when she came to visit her friend Freya, and finally you’ll arrive at Saint Anne’s church cemetery. It’s set into a hillside, all neat white stones adorned with flowers. Signs make it easy to find the most sought after graves: Freya Stark’s and Eleanora Duse’s, dramatically facing Monte Grappa in the distance.
You can stand there in reverent silence for a moment, believing it must have been Asolo that inspired one of the Divine Duse’s most beloved quotes:
“If the sight of the blue skies fills you with joy, if a blade of grass springing up in the fields has power to move you, if the simple things of nature have a message that you understand, rejoice, for your soul is alive...”
Asolo Tourist Info: www.asolo.it, www.bellasolo.it, www.marcatreviso.it
How to get there: Asolo is about an hour’s drive north of Venice. To rent a car, www.autoeurope.com.
Public transportation from Venice involves a few transfers. Take the train to Montebelluna (a half hour), then a taxi. Or from Montebelluna take a bus, then shuttle to the town center.
Golden Day: Start at Caffè Centrale, then explore shops, the museum, and the cathedral, before a walk to Saint Anne’s cemetery. Have lunch at a picnic table outside Corte dei Rei, enjoying their specialty porchetta, or plates of salumi and mountain cheeses, and mulled wine in fall and winter. Or go to Antica Osteria al Bacaro (via R. Browning 165 0423 55150) a popular spot for wine and snacks, where the bigoli (thick housemade spaghetti) with radicchio is excellent. Continue the adventure with an easy hike up to La Rocca, to explore the remains of a medieval castle and enjoy stunning views of the Veneto plain.
TIP: Since museums and restaurants have closing days Monday-Wednesday, it’s best to plan your trip accordingly.
Stay
A perfectly located three-star in the center, where you’ll love meeting owner Alessandro and his mother Gabriella who will thrill you with stories of the glamorous days of Asolo.
A romantic, luxurious option, with a gorgeous landscaped garden and sophisticated dining room.
Open the first three Saturday mornings of the month, and by appointment.
Shopping
On the second Saturday of every month and following Sunday, this market takes over the historic center of town.
Women-Owned Shops
Great selection of antique jewelry.
Hand-painted ceramics with an open workshop.
Founded by Pen Browning (son of poet Robert) in 1891, it’s now a charming spot to see delicate Asolian style embroidery, made by Francesca, who you can watch at work in the upstairs studio.