Photography © Brett Stevens

Grilled lamb pitta wraps

The souvlaki-shop inspired wraps are my affectionate ode to the Greek- run milkbar of yesteryear. Almost every suburb had one. The influx of hardworking Greek immigrants in the 1950s introduced a whole new culture Down Under, and a certain flair and service when it came to takeaway joints and greengrocery shops.

Makes 4

1 evenly shaped eggplant (aubergine)

olive oil, for shallow-frying

4 fresh, soft, large pitta breads

Chilli sauce, for drizzling (optional)

For the lamb

2 x 220 g (7¾ oz) lamb backstraps or loin fillets

1 tablespoon chopped oregano leaves

2 large strips of lemon zest

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, well bruised

Greek salad

1 tomato, cut into 1 cm (½ inch) dice

½ small red onion, very finely sliced

1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, cut into 5 mm (¼ inch) dice

a few large handfuls of flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped oregano leaves

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon ground allspice

Yoghurt sauce

130 g (4½ oz/½ cup) Greek-style yoghurt

2 garlic cloves, crushed

a squeeze of lemon juice

1 tablespoon tahini

To prepare the lamb, cut each backstrap in half, to give four squarish pieces. In a non-reactive dish, combine the oregano, lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. Add the lamb and turn to coat well. Cover tightly and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

Cut the eggplant lengthways into slices 5 mm (¼ inch) thick. Heat 1 cm (½ inch) olive oil in a deep-sided frying pan over medium–high heat. Working in batches, cook the eggplant, for 1 minute on each side, or until golden. Drain on paper towel and set aside.

Combine the salad ingredients in a bowl and season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

In a small bowl, combine the yoghurt sauce ingredients, season to taste and set aside.

Remove the lamb from the fridge to take the chill off before cooking. Meanwhile, heat a barbecue or ridged heavy-duty grill pan until very hot.

Remove the lamb from the marinade, discarding the marinade and its solids. Cook the lamb for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until well browned and just a little pink inside. Remove to a plate, cover loosely with foil and rest for 5 minutes, before slicing on a diagonal into thin slices.

While the lamb is resting, you can choose to briefly warm the pitta bread on the barbecue or under a hot grill (broiler), but don’t toast it — you want it soft for wrapping.

Place your pitta breads on your work surface. Divide the yoghurt sauce among the rounds, spreading it to the edges with the back of a spoon. Place a few slices of eggplant down the centre line of each pitta, then divide the salad over the top of the eggplant. Top with a quarter of the lamb slices; drizzle the lamb with the resting juices and a little chilli sauce, if using.

Roll the pitta up tightly, then firmly wrap some baking paper or foil around, to hold it together as you eat it with your hands. Grab a couple of serviettes — you’ll need them!