Tomato sauce

Makes 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups)

1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) ripe tomatoes (see Note)

1 tablespoon safflower oil

1 small brown onion, very finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) brown sugar

125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) apple cider vinegar

a small pinch of ground celery seeds

a pinch of ground cloves or star anise

1 teaspoon mustard powder

1 fresh bay leaf

a pinch of cayenne pepper or chilli powder

Using the tip of a small sharp knife, cut a small cross in the bottom of each tomato. Place them in a large heatproof bowl and pour boiling water over to cover. Leave for about 1 minute, then drain and transfer to a bowl of iced water. When cool enough to handle, peel the skins back from the crosses and discard.

Working over a bowl to catch the drips, carefully cut the tomatoes in half, then scoop the seeds out and discard. Dice the flesh and place in a clean bowl. Strain the reserved tomato juices into the chopped tomato and set aside.

Heat the safflower oil in a large saucepan over medium–high heat. Sauté the onion for 6–8 minutes, or until lightly golden. Add the garlic and stir until fragrant. Increase the heat to high, add the tomatoes, 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water and the remaining ingredients, and stir to combine.

Bring just to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally to ensure the mixture isn’t sticking, for 3½ hours, or until the mixture is thick, rich and pulpy. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

Discard the bay leaf. Purée the mixture as smooth as possible, using a food processor or hand-held stick blender. Strain, return to a clean pan and bring back to the boil.

Strain through a sterilised funnel, staight into a sterilised 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cup) jar or bottle. Screw the lid on tightly, then turn upside down until cool.

Store in the fridge for up to 6 months; discard if you see any sign of mould, or if the flavour suddenly changes. Serve as a condiment to meat pies, burgers, eggs or chips.

note If tomatoes are not in season, use four 400 g (14 oz) tins of chopped tomatoes. Just keep an eye on the sauce, as you may need to adjust the cooking time slightly. If tomatoes are in season and on sale, feel free to double the recipe, although you’ll need to cook it a little longer to reach the same consistency.