The aims of this book are twofold. Firstly, for those who shoot and fish and regularly bring home an assortment of game and fish for the table or freezer. It can be a daunting prospect to deal with six brace of pheasant, a dozen pigeon or a bagful of trout, but with high meat and fish prices, food that is full of flavour and additive free is a welcome bonus and should not be wasted.
Secondly, it is for those who have never cooked game before because they considered it too expensive, too highly flavoured or too difficult to prepare. Game need not be any of these; it is becoming more widely available to non-shooting families, either oven-ready from the supermarket or in feather or fur from the butcher or game dealer. Leading supermarket chains are now selling a wide variety of oven-ready game in season. Each pack is clearly labelled with the age, species and a suggested cooking method; leaflets with recipes are often available. Because this game is sold oven-ready and only the best quality is offered, this does mean that the price is of necessity higher than game bought unprepared from the butcher or game dealer. The fact that game no longer carries the old label of exclusiveness and is now gracing the table of a much wider section of the public can only be good news for the shooting man, game dealer and consumer.
There are endless ways of cooking game; it is appropriate for everyday family meals, Sunday lunches, special occasions, for picnics or barbecues. Most experts would agree that young game which has been cleanly shot is best cooked plainly and simply; a young roasted bird takes some beating, but there are times when the game is old or badly shot when it calls for more careful cooking to do it justice. This is when you can experiment with different casseroles, pot-roasts, pies and soups, trying new combinations of ingredients to include vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices.
As game birds tend to dry out easily in the cooking, the French method of roasting is ideal for them. For this the birds are roasted covered, with stock or wine added, instead of the dry-roast method so popular in the United Kingdom. A ‘self-basting’ roasting tin produces a similar result and is ideal for pheasants and all the small game birds. A pressure cooker is an invaluable aid to the game cook for preparing a complete meal quickly; a rabbit stew, for example, may take as little as 25 minutes to cook, and the gravy will be rich and well flavoured. It is also useful for the initial cooking of a tough old hare or ‘fork bender’ cock pheasant. This will help to tenderise the meat before you begin to follow the recipe.
Occasionally the bag will contain only three-quarters of a badly shot or dogged bird, or you may be left with several legs after making a ‘breast only’ dish. These oddments should not be wasted but are ideal for use in pâtés, burgers, pies or soups.
Many modern families have barbecues in the garden, or enjoy cooking out of doors on an open fire. Provided that the meat is marinated beforehand and basted during cooking, or foil wrapped to keep it moist, game can make a delicious alternative to the traditional and boring beefburgers and sausages. Provided that they are young, joints of rabbit, grouse, pheasant or partridge can all be successfully barbecued.
In the past game cooking has been associated with the old farmhouse kitchen range, but kitchens today tend to be equipped with a variety of different types of cooker — gas, electric or the microwave oven. For most families a microwave oven is complementary to the deep freeze and to their traditional oven rather than a substitute for it. It is useful if you are forgetful about removing food from the freezer for defrosting or if your family meals are at irregular times or endlessly interrupted, in which case food may either need to be cooked quickly from frozen or reheated. This equally applies to cooked game dishes as well as to other ready-cooked meals or convenience foods straight from the freezer. Game dishes can also be successfully prepared in the microwave, but it is better if the oven has facilities for browning and slow cooking. A roasted bird looks more appetising if served with a crisp golden-brown skin, and a good old-fashioned jugged hare needs long slow cooking both to tenderise the meat and to allow the full rich flavour to develop.
If you follow the advice of most doctors and go for a low-fat diet, then game is ideal. There is very little natural fat on any game and any excess oiliness sometimes present in wildfowl drains off the birds if they are roasted on a trivet. Low in fat also means fewer calories and is therefore a valuable aid to those watching their waistlines and seeking variety to endless dishes of chicken and cottage cheese.
Whenever possible, I have tried to avoid the use of extra fat during cooking. It is not essential, for example, to fry meat in butter or oil before cooking it in a casserole. When roasting small game birds or venison, a little extra fat or bacon may be needed to prevent the meat from becoming dry, but this should always be skimmed off before making the gravy or sauce. Larger birds should be roasted breast down to ensure that the juices run into and not off the breast, thus helping to keep the meat moist. Instead of using the roux method of mixing butter and flour with milk for making sauces, try blending cornflour and skimmed milk. Some of the richer recipes include cream, but top of the milk, natural low-fat yoghurt or crème fraîche may be substituted.
We are also encouraged to eat more fibre and less salt in our diet. This may be achieved by using puréed vegetables or wholemeal flour to thicken gravies and sauces, and by using only a little salt and adding herbs and spices for extra flavour.
As well as the traditional game companions of cranberry or redcurrant jelly, fried breadcrumbs or game chips, there are many other flavours which enhance and complement game. Red cabbage braised with onions, apples and vinegar, crunchy salads, apricots, apples, pears and pineapple all add different tastes and textures. Home-made elderberry, rowan or crab-apple jelly with their rich earthy flavours are just as agreeable as the shop-bought cranberry or redcurrant.
Since the first edition of this book was published in 1986 men of all ages are taking an interest in cooking and their skills are not just confined to the barbecue. As our lives become busier, meals are often prepared in minutes rather than hours and young game meat such as pigeon, pheasant, partridge or rabbit is ideal for quick cooking methods with a wok or sauté pan.
Over the past two decades foods from all over the world have been introduced to specialist food shops and supermarkets and are available throughout the year. Vegetables, fruits, nuts, sauces, spices and exotic flavours from China, India, Thailand, the Middle East, North and South America and Europe to name but a few, are there to add variety to game recipes.
Whether you are an experienced game cook or a complete beginner, I hope you will take a chance, experiment and enjoy cooking and eating some of the dishes which follow.
Note: Quantities are given in metric and imperial measurements. Use one set only; never mix them as they are not exact equivalents.
Cooking times may vary slightly according to the type of oven used.