Hiking_AL-66

Start: Sipsey Wilderness Recreational Area off Cranal Road (CR 60)

Distance: 2.8 miles point to point (requires shuttle)

Hiking time: About 2 hours

Difficulty: Easy over relatively flat footpath, moderate due to distance

Trail surface: Dirt and rock

Best seasons: Winter–late spring

Other trail users: None

Canine compatibility: Leashed dogs permitted

Land status: Wilderness

Nearest town: Moulton

Fees and permits: Day-use fee

Schedule: Year-round, sunrise to sunset

Maps: USGS Mount Hope, AL; DeLorme: Alabama Atlas & Gazetteer, page 23 B9 B10; trail maps available online at the Sipsey Wilderness Hiking Club website (www.sipseywilderness.org)

Trail contact: US Forest Service, 1070 AL 33, Double Springs, AL 35553; (205) 489-5111; www.fs.usda.gov/alabama

Special considerations: Hunting is permitted in the Sipsey Wilderness Area of William Bankhead National Forest, and trails are closed during certain times of the season. Visit the Forest Service website for dates and additional information.

Finding the trailhead: From Moulton at the intersection of AL 24 and AL 33, take AL 33 south 13.9 miles. Turn right onto CR 60 / Cranal Road. Travel 4 miles. The recreation area is well marked on the left side of the highway. GPS: N34 17.137' / W87 23.920'

The Hike

Most people don’t think of Alabama as a wilderness retreat, but it is. As a matter of fact, the state has three designated wilderness areas: Cheaha Wilderness, with its 7,490 acres, lies in northeast Alabama near Cheaha State Park; the Dugger Mountain Wilderness, near Anniston, has 9,200 acres; and the largest tract is the Sipsey Wilderness, with over 24,000 acres—the third largest wilderness area in the United States east of the Mississippi.

Located in William Bankhead National Forest, the Sipsey Wilderness exemplifies all of the characteristics (and more) of the federal government’s definition of wilderness: amazing landscapes and wildlife, an area untouched by humans, and an area that provides recreation and solitude. One of the best trails to experience all that the Sipsey has to offer is the Borden Creek Trail (Trail 200). Of all of the Sipsey’s trails, Borden Creek draws together all of the wilderness’s most attractive elements and does so along a footpath that’s easy enough for the whole family, with the exception of very young children, to enjoy. Having said that, keep in mind that the uniqueness of this trail and its relative ease of hiking also make it very popular. On any given weekend the trailhead is full. But don’t let that deter you!

There are several things that make the Sipsey so special. The first is that it is the only area of old-growth oak forest remaining in Alabama. Along the trail you will also find magnificent specimens of magnolia, holly, hemlock, and cedar. This is also a prime wildflower region. Don’t be surprised to see a lot of photographers along the trail, capturing images of yellow lady’s slippers, shooting stars, yellow and white trilliums, and other flowers.

The Sipsey is also the home of amazing sandstone bluffs, towering canyon walls carved over the ages by the action of Borden Creek, the Sipsey River, and the many waterfalls hidden away throughout the forest. As a matter of fact, throughout this hike you will hear the sounds of water splashing down the tall canyon walls, the reason why this area is known as Land of a Thousand Waterfalls.

The trail itself ranges from a narrow, 2-foot-wide dirt path to a wide, 5-plus-foot-wide path. You will climb over a few rocks along the way, too.

You have three options when it comes to walking this trail. The first is a 2.8-mile point-to-point. This is a fairly easy walk over dirt and rock footpaths. It is the best choice if you are bringing children since it’s shorter in length, being half the distance of the out-and-back version, but it will require you to have a shuttle vehicle waiting at the other end. You can start from either the Sipsey Wilderness Recreation Area or the Borden Creek Trailhead.

The other option is a 5.6-mile out-and-back. Of course, the length makes this more of a moderate hike and probably not good for young children.

The third option is to make it into an overnight backpacking trip and split the mileage up. There are numerous established campsites along the trail, either right next to the Sipsey River or Borden Creek or near an impressive rock shelter.

Along the trail you will be walking either alongside, or very near, the cold, clear waters of Borden Creek and the Sipsey River. Sandstone cliffs rise above both sides of the trail, some 100 feet high. The trail will make several stops at amazing rock shelters and waterfalls.

Just south of the Borden Creek Trailhead, you will come to what is known as the Fat Man’s Squeeze, a 200-foot-long cave through the rocks that is aptly named. From the north side the cave is large enough to comfortably walk into; at the southern end you will know how it got its name, narrowing to about a foot wide. If you have to, you can crawl through the bottom of the opening, where it is wider. It is a very damp cave, if not downright wet, because at the opening on the north end is a 50-foot waterfall. Just a little something extra to add to the adventure.

Although the trails in the wilderness are not marked, except for signs that mark the trailheads and the occasional intersection, staying on this trail is fairly easy. Unlike the Sipsey Trail, which has several unmarked branch trails and game paths that sometimes lure hikers in the wrong direction, this path is well worn and the only side trails are short ones leading to the established campsites I mentioned earlier.

The two trailheads are quite different. The better of the two is the Sipsey River Recreation Area at the south end of the trail. This is a wide gravel parking lot with plenty of room for thirty to forty cars. There is an information kiosk here and a decent composting restroom, and this is where you pay your day-use fee. The directions given below begin at this trailhead.

The Borden Creek Trailhead at the north end of the trail is a narrow gravel cul-de-sac that can hold maybe ten cars. You can park along the side of the approach road, but it’s narrow. There is no fee to park here. If you use this trailhead, simply reverse the directions below.

0.0	Start on the northwest side of the Sipsey Wilderness Picnic Area parking lot at the informational kiosk. A sign reading 200/209 (the trail numbers for the Borden and Sipsey Trails) points the direction. The trail is a well-worn and easy-to-follow dirt and rock footpath as it heads under the CR 60 bridge. You will have great views of the gorge and rocks of the Sipsey River on your left (west).
0.1	Come to a Y. Take the right fork (northeast).
0.2	Come to your first rock shelter with a waterfall. Continue straight under the shelter and come up on a second one. The trail swings under these shelters, then back on the riverbank.
0.3	Cross a runoff creek.
0.4	Pass a large bluff with a rock shelter on the right. In 100 feet pass another huge rock overhang/shelter with a seasonal waterfall.
0.5	Come to another Y. Take the left fork (northwest) to stay near the river.
0.6	Come to the confluence of Borden Creek and the Sipsey River. A sign marks the intersection with the Sipsey River Trail (#209) heading to the left (crosses river). There is a campsite here. Continue straight on the wide Borden Creek Trail. You are now walking above Borden Creek.
0.7	Cross a seasonal creek.
0.8	Pass a side trail to a campsite and the river on the left.
0.9	Cross a rocky creek.
1.0	Pass a shoal in the creek to your left. In 200 feet pass a campsite on the left. There is a nice bluff with shelters on the right.
1.1	Come to a Y. Take the left fork. There is another campsite here. Cross the creek to the northwest and in 100 feet cross a second creek.
1.2	Pass a campsite.
1.3	The trail comes to another nice creek. Hike straight across it and pick up the trail on the other side, where you will cross an unmarked trail that heads left and right (north and south). Continue straight to the west. In 200 feet pass another campsite.
1.4	The trail moves away from the bluffs and the forest opens up for a short distance.
1.7	Pass a large bluff on the right.
1.9	Pass a short side trail to a campsite on the right.
2.0	Cross an intermittent stream (there is a small waterfall here during times of rain).
2.1	The trail is slightly washed out and only about 6 inches wide for a few yards just before arriving at the cave.
2.2	Arrive at Fat Man’s Squeeze. The cave is about 200 feet long, with a slight bend to it. Walk through the cave and on the other side there is a small waterfall. In less than 0.1 mile, pass a rock shelter on the right.
2.3	Pass a very big rock bluff on the right with seasonal falls.
2.4	Pass another campsite on the left.
2.6	Pass a side trail to a campsite and the creek on the left. Another big rock bluff is to the right.
2.7	Pass a short trail to another campsite on the left.
2.8	Arrive at the Borden Creek trailhead. (Option: You need to either have a shuttle vehicle waiting for you here or this is your turnaround point to head back to the Sipsey Wilderness Recreation Area.)

Hiking Information

Local Information

Lawrence County Alabama Chamber of Commerce, 12467 AL 157, Moulton, AL 35650; (256) 974-1658; www.lawrencealabama.com

Local Events/Attractions

Alabama Chicken and Egg Festival, Lions Club Fairgrounds, 455 School St., Moulton; (256) 905-0700; www.alabamachickenandeggfestival.com. Held annually the second weekend of April, this interactive agricultural festival features three stages of bands, arts and crafts, and plenty of chicken to eat prepared in a variety of ways.

Restaurants

Nesmith’s Hamburgers, 14396 Court St., Moulton; (256) 974-9806. A Moulton staple since 1966. Great double cheeseburgers.

Hike Tours

Wild South, 11312 AL 33, Ste. 1, Moulton, AL 35650; (256) 974-6166; www.wildsouth.org. Not only is Wild South an amazing outdoor conservation organization, they also believe in sharing their knowledge of Bankhead National Forest with others and hold regular hikes.

Organizations

Sipsey Wilderness Hiking Club; www.sipseywilderness.org. Excellent website for information on the many trails of the Sipsey Wilderness and Bankhead National Forest.