My take on this popular summertime dish is inspired by a spectacular version I sampled at the restaurant 18 Seaboard in Raleigh, North Carolina. Use either firm, underripe tomatoes or heirloom varieties, such as Green Zebra or Evergreen. Do not peel the tomatoes: The skin helps the tomatoes retain their shape. Serve as an appetizer, first course, or vegetable side dish.
16 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: A sugar duster or small sieve; a 3-quart (3 l) heavy-duty saucepan, cast-iron pot, or electric deep-fat fryer fitted with a basket; a deep-fry thermometer or a wooden chopstick (optional); a wire skimmer; a tray lined with paper towels.
1/4 cup (60 ml) buttermilk, shaken to blend
1/2 cup (125 ml) whole milk
1/2 cup (70 g) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (75 g) cornmeal or instant polenta
1/2 cup (50 g) dried plain bread crumbs
1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more for seasoning
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 quart (1 l) vegetable oil, such as sunflower oil
About 4 medium green tomatoes, sliced 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) thick
Spicy Tomato Marmalade, for serving (optional)
Lime wedges, for serving
1. In a shallow bowl, combine the buttermilk and milk and whisk to blend. Place the flour in a sugar duster or have a small sieve at hand. In another bowl, combine the polenta, bread crumbs, salt, and thyme and toss with a fork to blend.
2. Pour the oil into the saucepan or deep-fat fryer to a depth of at least 2 inches (5 cm). If using a deep-fry thermometer to take the temperature of the oil, attach it to the side of the saucepan. Heat the oil over medium heat to 375°F (190°C), or until a wooden chopstick inserted into the oil begins to fizz with bubbles. Do not be tempted to use too high a heat to bring the oil to temperature, as it will be harder to control and keep stable once you arrive at your goal temperature.
3. Dredge a tomato slice in the buttermilk-milk mixture, shaking to remove excess liquid, then dust with the flour, shaking to remove excess. Repeat the steps, dredging in the liquid, then dusting with the flour. Finally, dredge the slice in the bread crumb mixture, shaking to remove any excess. Set aside on a tray and repeat with the rest of the tomato slices.
4. Fry the tomato slices in batches, about four at a time, until the breading is crisp, firm, and deep golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove with the wire skimmer and transfer to the paper-towel-lined tray to drain. Season with salt. Serve immediately, with spicy tomato marmalade and lime wedges.
BEVERAGE MATCH: Instead of wine here, I see a nice, chilled beer. Choose your local favorite.