I love my Parisian butcher, Antoine Guilhien of Boucherie du Bac in the 7th arrondissement, for he never, ever lets me down with the quality of his meat and poultry or with his cooking and roasting advice. One Christmas I ordered a smallish turkey from him (it weighed just under 10 pounds, or 4.3 kg, to be exact) and followed his advice to the letter, resulting in one of the best-cooked festive birds I’ve ever had. Here are some tips. (The same procedure can be used for a larger turkey.)
Tips
• Be sure to cover the breast portion of the turkey with caul fat, so the breast does not dry out in roasting. (Caul fat can be purchased from most butchers, though it may need to be ordered in advance.)
• Preheat the oven to the highest possible temperature. Mine will soar to 500°F (260°C). This will help create a good crust on the skin of the bird and help it remain moist when it later roasts at a lower temperature.
• After 30 minutes of roasting at the highest temperature, reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and continue roasting for 15 minutes per pound (500 g).
6 TO 8 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: Kitchen twine; an oval roasting pan just slightly larger than the turkey (about 9 × 13 inches; 23 × 33 cm) fitted with a roasting rack; a fine-mesh sieve.
1 turkey (about 10 pounds/4.3 kg), with giblets, free-range
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
2 organic lemons, halved crosswise
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 piece caul fat large enough to cover the breast of the turkey
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
10 shallots, umpeeled, halved lengthwise
1 bunch fresh parsley
4 bay leaves
1. Center a rack in the bottom third of the oven. Preheat the oven to its highest possible temperature, ideally 500°F (260°C).
2. Generously season the cavity of the turkey with salt and pepper. Place the giblets, lemons, and thyme in the cavity. Truss the turkey with kitchen twine (see sidebar). Also using the kitchen twine, tie the caul fat to the bird, covering the breast. Rub the caul fat and the remaining exposed skin of the turkey with the butter. Season all over with salt and pepper.
3. Place the shallots cut side down in the roasting pan. Add the parsley and bay leaves.
4. Set the roasting rack in the roasting pan, over the shallots, and place the turkey breast side up on the roasting rack. Pour 2 cups (500 ml) water into the bottom of the pan to help create a rich and pleasing sauce.
5. Roast, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and roast for a further 15 minutes per pound (500 g), for a total roasting time of 2-1/2 hours for a 10-pound (4.3 kg) bird, or until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a sharp knife or skewer, or an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh, but not touching the bone, reaches 165°F (75°C).
6. Season the turkey generously with salt and pepper. Remove and discard the twine. Transfer the turkey to a platter and tent it loosely with foil. Let the bird rest at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes. The turkey will continue to cook during this resting time.
7. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Place the roasting pan over medium heat, scraping up any bits that cling to the bottom. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping and stirring until the liquid is almost caramelized, but do not let it burn. Spoon off and discard any excess fat. Add several tablespoons cold water to deglaze (hot water will cloud the sauce). Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes.
8. While the sauce is cooking, carve the turkey into serving pieces and transfer to a warmed platter. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve and pour half over the turkey. Transfer the rest to a sauceboat for serving. Serve immediately.
WINE MATCH: Any young “GS” (Grenache, Syrah) wine from the southern Rhône is my choice here. Try the Vacqueyras from Famille Perrin, a dazzling red that’s 75 percent Grenache, 25 percent Syrah—a winning combination.