Roasted Broccoli with Lemon, Mustard, Garlic, and Chile Butter

Broccoli can often be a hard sell, especially when it’s cooked to within an inch of its life, served soggy as a halfhearted attempt to add green to the plate. But with a little love and some strong heat, broccoli can be completely transformed, its sulfurous personality subdued as the sugars caramelize and the tips of the florets become golden and crispy. I once heard a Michelin-starred chef refer to the inner stalk of a broccoli as the moelle, or “marrow,” of the broccoli, the most delicious part that should never be thrown away, and I couldn’t agree more. The leaves, too, are quite delicious and should be cooked along with the florets.

4 SIDE SERVINGS

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       EQUIPMENT: A rimmed baking sheet.

        1 small broccoli head (about 1 pound/500 g)

        4 tablespoons (60 g) Ghee, melted, or toasted sesame oil

        Fine sea salt

        1/4 cup (2 ounces/60 g) Lemon, Mustard, Garlic, and Chile Butter

        Hot red pepper flakes, for garnish

1.     Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2.     Trim the broccoli florets at the base of their stem and halve them lengthwise. Peel the large stem and slice it into 2 × 1/2-inch (5 × 1 cm) pieces. In a large bowl, toss the broccoli florets, stems, and leaves in the ghee until evenly coated and season with salt.

3.     Spread the broccoli out onto the baking sheet, taking care not to overcrowd the pan, as this will cause the broccoli to steam and not roast.

4.     Roast the broccoli until it is cooked through but gives some resistance when speared with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes, turning once during cooking. The broccoli should be golden and the edges of the stems and florets beginning to crisp.

5.     Toss the broccoli with the lemon, mustard, garlic, and chile butter and garnish with hot red pepper flakes.

VARIATION: For a different umami hit, drizzle with 2 tablespoons Anchoïade or even a splash of fish sauce.