Fragrant, wild morels are a perfect match for a farm-fresh chicken, teamed up with a rich poultry stock and a touch of cream and garnished with a shower of mixed fresh herbs. This dish often appears on the menu the opening night of my truffle cooking class in Provence, embellished with fresh truffle matchsticks, of course!
6 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: Dampened cheesecloth; a 6-quart (6 l) cast-iron pot with a lid; 6 warmed dinner plates.
1 cup (2 ounces/60 g) dried morel mushrooms
1 chicken (3 to 4 pounds/1.5 to 2 kg), free-range, cut into 8 pieces, at room temperature
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 shallots, peeled, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine, such as a young Chardonnay
1 cup (250 ml) Chicken Stock
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
Crunchy Jasmine Rice, for serving
Minced fresh herbs, such as tarragon, chives, parsley, or a mix, for garnish
1. In a colander, rinse the morels under cold running water to rid them of any grit. Transfer them to a heatproof bowl and top with 2 cups (500 ml) hottest possible tap water. Set aside for 15 minutes to plump up the mushrooms. With a slotted spoon, carefully remove the mushrooms from the liquid, leaving behind any grit that may have fallen to the bottom, and set aside.
2. Place the dampened cheesecloth in a colander set over a large bowl. Carefully spoon the soaking liquid into the colander, leaving behind any grit at the bottom of the measuring cup. You should have 1-1/2 cups (375 ml) liquid.
3. Generously season the chicken pieces on all sides with salt and pepper.
4. In the pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the chicken, in batches, if necessary, and sear until it turns an even golden color, about 5 minutes. Turn the pieces (using tongs, to avoid piercing the skin) and brown them on the other side, 5 minutes more. Carefully regulate the heat to avoid scorching the skin. When the pieces are browned, transfer them to a platter.
5. Reduce the heat to low, add the shallots and 1/8 teaspoon salt to the pot, and sweat—cook, covered, over low heat—until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Return the chicken to the pot. Add the wine, deglaze the pot, scraping up any browned bits that have stuck to the bottom, and simmer for several minutes to burn off the alcohol. Add the morels, morel soaking liquid, and stock.
6. Cover and simmer gently over low heat for about 20 minutes. The breast meat will cook faster than the dark meat, so check during the cooking time for when it is cooked through and tender. Look for juices that run clear when pierced with the tip of a knife in the thickest part of breast, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the flesh, avoiding the bone, reads 165°F (74°C). Transfer to a platter and tent with aluminum foil. Continue to simmer the remaining meat gently for about 15 minutes more, or until the dark meat is cooked through and the juices run clear when pierced with the tip of a knife. Return the breast meat to the pot to warm through. Taste for seasoning.
7. About 10 minutes before serving, add the cream to the pot and stir to blend it in. Taste for seasoning.
8. To serve, arrange a serving of rice on each of the warmed dinner plates. Spoon a piece of chicken and some morel sauce over the rice. Garnish with herbs and serve.
WINE MATCH: I pull out all the stops here and open a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A favorite is the nuanced, balanced 100 percent Roussanne from Patrice Magni.