For years I have been taking my Paris cooking class students to experience the exquisite cuisine of the Michelin three-star chef Guy Savoy. For years, he has served an earthy mushroom puff-pastry roll with his artichoke soup. Always inspired by his creations, I developed this yeasted variation to serve at dinner parties with a touch of Dried Cèpe Butter or Truffle Butter alongside my Magic Cèpe Mushroom Soup or Artichoke Soup, or simply to take along on hikes or picnics.
Note that you’ll need to start the brioche rolls several hours or the day before you plan to bake them.
MAKES 12 ROLLS
EQUIPMENT: A heavy-duty mixer fitted with a flat paddle; a pastry scraper; a standard 12-well nonstick muffin tin.
SPONGE
1/3 cup (80 ml) whole milk, lukewarm
1 package (about 2 teaspoons) active dry yeast or instant yeast
1 teaspoon mild, fragrant honey, such as lavender
1 large egg, free-range and organic, lightly beaten
2 cups (280 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
MUSHROOMS
2 tablespoons (1-1/2 ounces/30 g) unsalted butter
14 ounces (400 g) button mushrooms, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1/4 cup finely sliced fresh chives
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 plump, fresh garlic cloves, green germ removed if present, finely minced
DOUGH
2 tablespoons Cèpe Mushroom Powder
1-1/2 cups (210 g) unbleached, all purpose-flour
1-1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
4 large eggs, free-range and organic, lightly beaten
3/4 cup (6 ounces/180 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
EGG WASH
1 large egg, free-range and organic, lightly beaten
1. PREPARE THE SPONGE: In the bowl of the heavy-duty mixer, combine the milk, yeast (see Notes if using instant yeast). and honey and stir to blend. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add the egg and half the flour and stir to blend. The sponge will be soft and sticky. Sprinkle with the remaining flour, to cover the sponge dough, but don’t mix it in. Set aside to rest, uncovered, for 30 minutes. The sponge should erupt slightly, cracking the layer of flour. This indicates that the yeast is live and doing its job.
2. PREPARE THE MUSHROOMS: In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. As the butter begins to foam, add half the mushrooms and mix to coat evenly with the butter. Sear gently until all the mushroom liquid that is released has evaporated. The mushrooms should have reduced significantly in size and be nicely browned on the exterior. Set aside the cooked mushrooms in a bowl and repeat the process with the remaining butter and mushrooms. Return the first batch of mushrooms to the skillet, add the chives, salt, and garlic, and cook for 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
3. PREPARE THE DOUGH: Add the cèpe powder (if using) to the flour and whisk to combine. Add the salt, eggs, and flour mixture to the sponge. With the paddle attached, mix at low speed just until the ingredients come together, about 1 minute. Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat for 5 minutes.
4. When the butter is incorporated, it should be the same consistency as the dough. To prepare the butter, place it on a flat work surface, and with the pastry scraper, smear it bit by bit across the surface. (If you don’t have a pastry scraper, use the back of a large metal spoon.) When it is ready, the butter should be smooth, soft, but still cool—not warm, oily, or greasy.
5. With the mixer on medium-low speed, add the butter a few tablespoons at a time. When all the butter has been added, increase the mixer speed to medium-high for 1 minute. Add the mushroom mixture, then reduce the speed to medium and continue to beat the dough for 2 minutes more. The dough will be soft and pliable but shouldn’t stick to your hands.
6. FIRST RISE: Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.
7. CHILLING AND SECOND RISE: Punch down the dough. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough overnight, or for at least 4 hours, during which time it should double in size again.
8. TO FORM THE ROLLS: Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces, each weighing about 2-1/2 ounces (75 g). Roll each piece of dough tightly into a ball and place one ball in each of the muffin cups. Cover the pan with a clean kitchen towel and let the dough rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1-1/2 hours.
9. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
10. Lightly brush the dough with the beaten egg. Working quickly, using the tip of a pair of sharp scissors, snip a cross on the top of each ball of dough. (This will help the brioche rise evenly as it bakes.) Bake until the rolls are puffed and deeply golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Place the pan on the baking rack to cool. Turn the rolls out when they have cooled.