This master recipe converts surprisingly well into a savory version. Here the ground nut base is roasted hazelnuts, their earthy quality a natural pairing for rosemary and Parmesan. Toasting the hazelnuts dramatically intensifies their flavor, so don’t miss this step.
MAKES 12 MINI MUFFINS
EQUIPMENT: A baking sheet; a food processor; a fine-mesh sieve; a pastry brush; a 12-cavity 2-1/2-inch (6 cm) mini-muffin pan.
1 cup (140 g) hazelnuts
3/4 cup (6 ounces/180 g) unsalted butter
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (30 g) packed grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
6 large egg whites, free-range and organic
1/4 cup (about 55 g) packed sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. Spread the hazelnuts in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake, shaking the sheet from time to time, until the nuts are toasted and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Place the nuts in a clean kitchen towel and rub them to remove their skins. Transfer the nuts to a dish to cool, discarding the skins.
3. When cool, place the hazelnuts in the food processor and grind to a fine powder.
4. In a small, heavy-duty saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat, stirring as it melts. Turn the heat down to low and simmer the butter until the milk solids begin to brown and smell warm and nutty. Be careful, as the milk solids can burn quickly at this stage. The butter should not have any specks of dark brown or black. Remove from the heat and strain through the fine-mesh sieve into a bowl to stop the cooking process. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
5. With the pastry brush, use the brown butter to thoroughly grease the muffin molds. Place the muffin tin on the baking sheet.
6. In a large bowl, combine the ground hazelnuts, flour, cheese, rosemary, and salt. Mix to blend. Add the egg whites and mix until thoroughly blended. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and cooled brown butter mixture and mix until thoroughly blended. The mixture should pourable.
7. Spoon the batter into the molds, filling them almost to the rim. Place the baking sheet in the center of the oven and bake until the muffins are golden brown and spring back when pressed with a finger, 15 to 20 minutes.
8. Let the muffins cool in the molds for 10 minutes. Unmold. The muffins may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.