Meringues are miraculous things. By simply combining whipped egg whites with a little cream of tartar (the acidity helps stabilize the egg white proteins) and sugar, and baking them slowly at a low temperature, you can easily (and very inexpensively!) create an elegant dessert that is wonderfully versatile. Baked long and slow, they become hard and dry, a sweet crispy counterpoint to acidic fruits and cloudlike whipped cream. With the addition of cornstarch and a few simple adjustments in the recipe, you can create irresistible pavlova desserts with sweet marshmallow centers.
Meringues are simple to make, but it’s worth keeping these tips in mind for the best possible results:
• Older eggs are best for meringues, as the protein structure in the whites begins to break down as the eggs age, making them easier to whip. But fresh eggs will make meringues just fine, too.
• The meringue will begin to liquefy if left to stand, so be sure to prepare all the ingredients before whipping the egg whites. Bake as soon as the meringue is prepared.
• When added to egg whites for whipping, cream of tartar stabilizes the egg proteins, helping to achieve stiff peaks and the fullest volume from the whites. If you don’t have any to hand, a couple of drops of lemon juice or vinegar will do the trick.
• Pay close attention when whipping egg whites, as over- or underbeating can result in the mixture weeping a sugary syrup during cooking. Look for visual cues to know when the egg whites are at the right stage to incorporate the sugar: the stiff peak stage (or just before), where the whites stand tall on their own and cling firmly to the whisk. Overwhipping results in the egg whites becoming “dry,” with a clumpy, curdled-looking texture.
• Meringues are very sensitive to temperature, so use an oven thermometer to make sure the oven is not too hot. Too high a temperature will cause beading, coloring on the surface of the meringue, and cracking.
• For dry, crisp meringues, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon for the last hour of baking to allow any moisture to escape and encourage the drying process. For pavlova recipes, however, a sudden drop in oven temperature can cause the mixture to fall, resulting in a less tall marshmallow-like interior, so avoid opening the oven door during baking and let the pavlovas cool in the oven with the door closed.
• Avoid making meringues in very humid weather: The sugar in the egg white mixture absorbs moisture from the air, making it almost impossible to achieve thick, stiff peaks. Humidity may also cause meringues to weep or to soften once baked.
• Superfine sugar is recommended when making meringues. It is more finely ground than granulated sugar, dissolves more quickly, and helps prevent weeping or sogginess in the meringues. When the sugar is undissolved in the meringue mixture, there is a tendency for the baked product to weep. Superfine sugar can be made at home by placing classic sugar in a food process and grinding it to a finer texture.
• The classic ratio for most meringues is double the amount of sugar to egg whites. Since egg size can vary, you can use this formula to adjust any recipe. In general, 1 large egg white weighs about 1.25 to 1.4 ounces (35 to 38 g), so for 4 eggs whites, you will need 1 cup plus 6 tablespoons to 1-1/2 cups (280 to 300 g) of sugar.