Master Recipe 
The Provençal town of Montélimar is famous for its nougat, generally a semisoft confection of egg whites cooked with local honey. This chilled version, a honey-based nougat glacé, is a dessert that can be made in any season, folding in all manner of nuts and candied fruits, and garnished with any fruit of the season. In restaurants, all too often, I am served a nougat glacé that is hard as a rock. I have found in my tests that lightly cooking the sugar, honey, and invert sugar syrup and pouring the hot mixture into whipped egg whites softens the mixture, and the result is a feather-light, creamy-textured dessert. I make this often and find that a collapsible pâté mold works like a charm, simplifying the unmolding process.
12 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: A 1-quart (1 l) rectangular loaf pan or a 1-quart (1 l) collapsible pâté mold l; a heavy-duty mixer fitted with a whisk; a large spatula or large spoon; 12 chilled dessert plates.
3/4 cup (185 ml) heavy cream, chilled
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
3 tablespoons mild honey, such as clover
3 tablespoons Invert Sugar Syrup or light corn syrup
3 large egg whites, free-range and organic, at room temperature
Candied Kumquats (recipe follows) or mixed berries, for garnish
1. Line the loaf pan with baking parchment, leaving a generous overhang.
2. In the bowl of the heavy-duty mixer, whisk the cream at the highest speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. Transfer the whipped cream to a large bowl. Wash the whisk and bowl of the mixer and reserve them to use to whisk the egg whites.
3. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, honey, and invert sugar syrup over medium heat. Whisking regularly, cook until the mixture is foamy and bubbling and has tripled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes.
4. In the clean bowl of the mixer, whisk the egg whites at the highest speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. Still whisking at the highest speed, slowly pour the hot sugar mixture into the egg whites and whisk until well blended. Remove the bowl from the mixer and spoon the whipped cream on top of the egg white mixture. Carefully fold in the cream by hand: Using the edge of the spatula or spoon, cut through the two mixtures until you reach the bottom, then draw the spoon along the bottom of the bowl. Turn your wrist to bring the spoon up the side of the bowl, lightly bringing the egg white mixture from the bottom to the top. As you do so, turn the bowl about 45 degrees, lightly overturning the spoon to fold the egg whites on top of the whipped cream. Turning the bowl as you fold will incorporate the mixtures more efficiently. Continue cutting into the mixture and folding until just incorporated.
5. Spoon the nougat mixture into the prepared pan or mold, using a spatula to smooth out the top. Carefully lift up on the edges of the overhanging baking parchment to loosen it and to ensure the mixture will not stick to the pan once frozen, then fold the baking parchment over the top. Cover lightly the nougat with aluminum foil and freeze until firm, at least 6 hours and up to 3 days.
6. To serve, carefully remove the frozen dessert from the pan, using the overhanging baking parchment as handles. (If the dessert is difficult to unmold, dip the bottom of the mold in hot water for a few seconds.) Remove the baking parchment. Cut the nougat glacé into 12 even slices. Serve on the chilled plates. Garnish with candied kumquats or mixed berries.
VARIATIONS
CANDIED CITRUS AND GINGER NOUGAT GLACÉ
Carefully fold in 1/4 cup (40 g) each of cubed candied lemon, orange, and ginger in step 3, or just use 3/4 cup (120 g) candied ginger.
For a tangier dessert: In step 1, combine 1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream with 1/2 cup (125 ml) thick Greek yogurt and whip as instructed.
Candied Kumquats
These shimmering orange candied fruits are great as a garnish on nougat glacé.
MAKES 1 QUART (1 L)
EQUIPMENT: Eight 1/2-cup (125 ml) canning jars with lids, sterilized.
1-1/2 pounds (750 g) fresh kumquats
2 cups (500 ml) fresh blood orange, mandarin orange, or regular orange juice
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1. Stem the kumquats, halve them lengthwise, and remove and discard the seeds.
2. In a large saucepan, combine the kumquats, orange juice, and sugar. Simmer over medium heat, skimming the surface as needed, until the juice is thick and the kumquats are soft and translucent, about 1 hour. Skim off and discard any seeds that float to the surface. Let cool.
3. Transfer to the canning jars and secure the lids. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
MAKE-AHEAD NOTE: The nougat glacé can be made up to 3 days in advance and kept frozen.