Salt cod brandade is a classic French Provençal specialty, a creamy, garlic-rich puree of salt cod, milk, and oil, enhanced with a touch of nutmeg, a squeeze of lemon juice, and a hit of freshly ground black pepper. It’s an ideal appetizer, made for a dip with fresh vegetables or for spreading on toasted sourdough bread. It’s the poaching in a broth of garlic and bay leaves that gives it a dense, forward flavor.
8 APPETIZER SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: A food processor.
1 pound (500 g) boneless, skinless salt cod
5 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present
4 bay leaves, crushed and halved, to release flavor
3/4 cup (185 ml) whole milk
3/4 cup (185 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
About 12 best-quality brine-cured black olives (no need to pit), for garnish
Toasted sourdough bread, for serving
1. Place the cod in a large, shallow container and pour in cold water to cover. Cover securely and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times to desalt the fish.
2. Drain the cod and cut it into 4 pieces. Place the cod, garlic, and bay leaves in a large saucepan. Add cold water to cover. Bring just to a simmer over medium heat and gently poach the cod until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain the cod and the garlic, discarding the bay leaves. When cool enough to handle, break the cod into flakes with a fork.
3. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium-low heat just until small bubbles form around the edge of the pan. In a separate medium saucepan, heat the oil just until warmed.
4. Place the cod and garlic in the food processor. While pulsing on and off, add the warm oil in a steady stream; do not overmix the cod. When the oil is incorporated and the mixture is quite smooth, slowly add the milk in a steady stream, again pulsing on and off to avoid overmixing, which could turn the brandade into a gummy mass. The brandade should be light, white, and fluffy, not thin and runny; you may not need to add all the milk. Add the nutmeg and lemon juice to the mixture and pulse once or twice just to incorporate. Season with pepper and taste for seasoning. (If you do make the brandade too thin, pour the mixture into a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl to drain out excess liquid. Discard the liquid.)
5. Transfer the brandade to a shallow serving bowl, mounding it in the center, and garnish with the black olives. Serve with plenty of crusty, toasted sourdough bread.
NOTE: You will need to begin this recipe the day before in order to desalt the cod.