Salt absorbs the aromas and flavors of whatever you infuse it with, and infused salts will become the stars of your pantry. My favorites include piment d’Espelette salt (used almost daily, sprinkled on pizzas, pastas, cottage cheese—anything that loves a touch of heat and hint of salt) and wild mushroom salts (cèpe and morel), used on simple fare such as pastas and mushroom soups. And of course during truffle season in Provence—from November to March—I always keep truffle salt on hand, though this salt needs to be kept in the freezer and taken out about 10 minutes before using. I find that 1:1 proportions are ideal, usually combining 1 tablespoon Maldon sea salt flakes (I prefer flaky salt here, perfect for the table and for the tactile enjoyment of rubbing the salt mixture between your fingers as you season) with 1 tablespoon ground powder or spice.
PIMENT D’ESPELETTE SALT: 1 tablespoon salt flakes, 1 tablespoon ground Espelette pepper
DRIED CÈPE OR MOREL SALT: 1 tablespoon salt flakes, 1 tablespoon Cèpe (Porcini) Mushroom Powder or morel powder
TRUFFLE SALT: 1 tablespoon salt flakes, 1 tablespoon minced fresh black truffle. (Store in the freezer for up to 6 months. Remove from the freezer at least 10 minutes before using to soften.)
TOASTED CUMIN SALT: Toast cumin seeds in a small saucepan over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a dish to cool, then grind to a fine powder in an electric spice grinder. For the salt, combine 1 tablespoon salt flakes and 1 tablespoon ground toasted cumin.
Clockwise from center top: Red Chile Salt; Dried Morel Salt; Piment d’Espelette Salt; Toasted Cumin Salt; Maldon Sea Salt Flakes; Saffron Salt; Dried Cèpe Salt
RED CHILE SALT: 1 tablespoon salt flakes, 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes
LEMON SALT: 1 tablespoon salt flakes, 1 tablespoon finely grated organic lemon zest. Combine in a spice grinder and pulse 5 times to blend. Store in the refrigerator.
SAFFRON SALT: 1 tablespoon salt flakes, 1 teaspoon ground saffron threads