Dried wild mushrooms and their accompanying powder have become huge players in my infusion game. This forward-flavored sauce tastes remarkably rich yet is not the least bit heavy, since infusing the cream with cèpe powder and making a cèpe reduction imparts such intense flavors and bold results.
4 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: A small jar with a lid; a 1-quart (1 l) heatproof bowl; dampened cheesecloth; a fine-mesh sieve; a 10-quart (10 l) pasta pot fitted with a colander; 4 warmed pasta bowls.
4 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon Cèpe Mushroom Powder
2 cups (40 g) dried cèpe mushrooms
2 tablespoons salted butter
3 tablespoons coarse sea salt
13 ounces (400 g) best-quality dried spaghetti or fresh spaghetti (see Note)
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 cup (100 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1. If time permits, combine the cream and mushroom powder in a jar, seal, and refrigerate for 24 hours to infuse the cream with the mushroom flavor and aroma. (Alternatively, combine the cream and mushroom powder in a small, heavy-duty pot, bring just to a simmer, cover, remove from the heat, and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse the cream.)
2. Place the mushrooms in a colander and rinse well under cold running water to rid them of any grit. Transfer them to the heatproof bowl. Pour 2 cups (500 ml) hottest possible tap water over the mushrooms. Set aside for 20 minutes to plump them up. With a slotted spoon, carefully remove the mushrooms from the liquid, leaving behind any grit that might have fallen to the bottom; reserve the soaking liquid. Place the cheesecloth in the sieve and set over a large bowl. Carefully pour the mushroom soaking liquid through the cheesecloth, leaving behind any grit at the bottom of the bowl.
3. Transfer the mushroom soaking liquid to a large saucepan (big enough to hold the pasta) and cook over high heat until it has reduced to 1/2 cup (125 ml), about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms, butter, and infused cream.
4. Fill the pasta pot with 8 quarts (8 l) water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and stir to dissolve. Add the pasta and cook until al dente or slightly resistant to the bite. Drain, reserving 2 tablespoons of the pasta cooking liquid. Immediately add the pasta to the pan with the mushroom sauce. Add the reserved pasta cooking liquid and the thyme. Toss to blend and cook over low heat until the pasta is well coated in the sauce. Remove the pan from the heat, add the cheese and chives, and toss once more. Taste for seasoning.
5. To create spaghetti nests, scoop a generous portion of spaghetti onto a large fork or meat prong. Place the fork into a ladle and rotate the fork in a continuous motion to wind the spaghetti around on itself. Gently place the spaghetti nest in a warmed pasta bowl. Serve immediately.
NOTE: When buying dried spaghetti, choose a brand made in Italy and pay attention to the cooking time, as a longer cooking time usually indicates a higher-quality pasta. When following the instructions on the package, take the pasta out 1 to 2 minutes before the indicated time, as the pasta will continue to cook in the pan with the sauce.