Years ago, this became a favorite in my Paris cooking classes, inspired by a dish chef Eric Trochon served me at Semilla, our local hangout around the corner from my cooking studio. As always, grinding your own poultry and meat improves flavor and texture dramatically.
MAKES 8 BURGERS
EQUIPMENT: A sharp knife; a baking sheet lined with baking parchment; a food processor; a kitchen scale; a 3-1/4-inch (8 cm) hamburger press (optional).
4 magret duck breasts, each about 1 pound (500 g)
5 ounces (150 g) smoked bacon, diced
1/4 cup (60 ml) toasted sesame oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
8 slices Comté and Paprika Brioche, cut into 4-inch (10 cm) rounds and toasted, for serving
Spicy Tomato Marmalade, for serving
1. Using the tip of a sharp knife, carefully separate the duck fat from the breast meat. Cut the meat into 1/2-inch (1 cm) cubes and the fat of 1 duck breast into 1/4-inch (0.5 cm) cubes. (The remaining fat can be rendered—melted over low heat until liquid—then strained to remove any solids, and used for cooking in place of oil or butter. Store it in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.) Spread the cubed meat and fat (keeping the two separate) in a single layer on the baking sheet, and freeze for 30 minutes. The edges of the meat and fat should be stiff but the middles still pliable. (Freezing will help the food processor blade cut the meat cleanly rather than tearing or smearing it, and keep the fat firm when mixed with the meat.)
2. While the meat is chilling, in a small, dry skillet, brown the bacon over medium heat until crisp and golden, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to several layers of paper towels to drain. Blot the top of the bacon with several layers of paper towels to absorb any additional fat.
3. Working in two batches, place the chilled meat in the food processor and grind it in fifteen to twenty 1-second pulses, until it looks coarsely ground. Transfer the mixture to a large platter and repeat with the remaining meat. Inspect the meat for any large pieces, regrind as needed, and discard any tough gristle.
4. Add the sesame oil, soy sauce, salt, cooked bacon, cubed fat, and pepper to the ground duck meat. With your hands, work the ingredients into the meat, until evenly seasoned and well combined.
5. Portion the mixture and weigh it on the scale. I find 4 ounces (125 g) per patty is just right. You can go to 6 ounces (180 g) for larger appetites. I like the look of a perfectly round patty, so I use a hamburger press or a round metal form with a “pusher” or metal topper to very gently press the meat and fat mixture into the form. But hand-molded patties are also perfectly acceptable.
6. Heat a dry nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot but not smoking, carefully transfer the patties to the pan with a wide spatula. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for about 2 minutes per side, turning only once, until the burger is well browned on the outside and still rare on the inside, or until cooked as desired.
7. Remove the burgers from the pan and season both sides lightly with sea salt and generously with pepper. Carefully place each burger on top of a toasted brioche. Serve with Spicy Tomato Marmalade.