What do the crusty coating of fried potatoes, dark beer, chocolate, coffee, the mahogany surface of well-browned meat, and the burnished surface of brioche, cakes, breads, and a slice of toast all have in common? They get much of their color and flavor as a result of the Maillard reaction, also known as the “browning reaction.” The cooking “miracle” gets its name from the French scientist Louis-Camille Maillard, who studied the browning of foods in the early 1900s. As the surface of foods warms in dry heat, amino acids (proteins) and sugars react together and the surface becomes brown, crunchy, and fragrant, with a rich, deep flavor.
This, more than anything else, is what distinguishes the depth of flavor of meat cooked at a high heat (baked, fried, roasted, grilled, and panfried) from that of food that is poached, simmered, steamed, or cooked at a low temperature. Dryness and temperature are the two main factors that create the Maillard reaction. Searing, therefore, is an essential technique to maximize flavors when braising, stewing, and roasting. See the Roast, Grill, and Braise chapters for more searing tips using those techniques.
Tips
• The drier the meat, the faster the Maillard reaction occurs. Patting food dry with a paper towel will speed up the browning process, which is particularly useful if you are searing the outside of a cut of meat before cooking it using another technique such as braising or slow cooking, making sure the meat does not overcook while the browning occurs.
• The sizzle is the telltale sound that a nice, caramelized crust is forming on whatever it is you are searing. If the temperature of the pan is too low, or too much liquid is escaping from the food and pooling in the pan, you won’t get a good sizzle, meaning there is not enough moisture evaporation happening and the temperature will not rise to sufficient levels to create the Maillard reaction. So a hot pan is essential, as is not overcrowding the pan, which will also force down the temperature of the pan.