Antoine Westerman of Le Coq Rico in Paris’s 18th arrondissement taught me to value and appreciate the power of poultry innards, especially the livers and hearts, which he cooks in various magical ways. A favorite Provençal country restaurant—Le Dagobert in the Drôme—then taught me the magic of gently sweating, then forcefully searing tender lamb livers and richly flavored hearts with celery and shallots and showering them with fresh thyme leaves.
4 SERVINGS
4 celery ribs, rinsed and cut into thin half-moons
4 shallots, peeled and cut crosswise into thin slices
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
About 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 chicken livers, trimmed of any fat and gristle and cut into bite-size pieces
4 chicken hearts, trimmed of any fat and gristle and cut into bite-size pieces
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, for garnish
1. In a medium skillet, combine the celery, shallots, oil, and salt and sweat—cook, covered, over low heat—until softened, about 5 minutes. Set aside in a bowl.
2. In the same skillet, sear the livers and hearts over high heat, tossing regularly, until browned around the edges and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer the innards to the bowl with the celery-shallot mixture and toss to blend. Shower with the thyme leaves. Serve warm.
VARIATIONS: The livers and hearts can also be garnished with mint or tarragon, or teamed up with a few capers.