Eggplant is the star player in this popular Sicilian vegetable dish, so the goal here is to extract as much of its dense, smoky, earthy flavor as possible. To achieve this, I cook the eggplant separately, searing it to intensify and concentrate its flavors. I don’t agree with the common belief that eggplant should be cooked with huge amounts of oil: I find that if you sear cubed eggplant in a moderate amount of oil over fairly high heat and toss it regularly until soft, you don’t have to exaggerate with the fat. Likewise, I find the advice to salt eggplant slices to draw out bitter liquid an antiquated custom. Bitterness has been bred out of today’s eggplant, and in my experience, when eggplant is firm and fresh, it is never bitter.
MAKES 1 QUART (1 L), TO SERVE 4 TO 6
1 pound (500 g) firm eggplant, washed but not peeled, cut into 3-inch (7.5 cm) chunks
6 to 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1-1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 teaspoons fresh or dried oregano
2 medium onions, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-moons
4 celery ribs, with leaves, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) tomato sauce or one 8-ounce can diced tomatoes
1/4 cup (50 g) organic unrefined raw sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) best-quality red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons capers in vinegar, drained
Minced fresh oregano leaves, for garnish
1. In a large saucepan, combine the eggplant, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the oregano and toss to coat well. Sear the eggplant over high heat, tossing regularly to keep the eggplant from sticking, until the flesh is soft and charred on the edges, about 8 minutes. If the eggplant becomes too dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons additional oil and continue to sear until soft, about 2 minutes more.
2. In another saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons of the oil, the onions, celery, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and toss to coat the vegetables with the oil. Sweat—cook, covered, over low heat—until the vegetables are soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let the onions brown. Add the seared eggplant, tomato sauce, sugar, vinegar, and capers and simmer, covered, over low heat until very tender, about 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning.
3. At serving time, taste for seasoning again and garnish with minced fresh oregano leaves. Serve at room temperature as part of an antipasto assortment or as a side vegetable dish.
MAKE-AHEAD NOTE: Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.