Highlights
Great Yarmouth used to be one of the wealthiest cities in the country. Before World War I over a thousand fishing trawlers were engaged in the industry, but over-fishing and competition from abroad led to a steep decline and the town today relies on servicing container ships, North Sea oil rigs and renewable energy sources. Yarmouth (as it used to be known) has been a seaside resort since 1760 and today boasts splendid sands and non-stop entertainment. It is a town of two very different parts: the holiday resort focussed on the marina, where golden sands are hidden from view behind the roller coasters, and the historic quarter of South Quay. Parking here can be tricky so leave the car along the seafront and walk across to the quayside.
While there is plenty for holiday makers to do in Great Yarmouth, the town has sadly become rather run down in recent years. It’s sorely in need of investment and a revamp, which the council have promised repeatedly.
The Pleasure Beach, Great Yarmouth.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Heritage Quarter
The town’s Heritage Quarter 1 [map] stretches along South Quay. Almost opposite the Town Hall the Lydia Eva (www.lydiaeva.org.uk; Apr–Oct Tue–Sun 10am–4pm; free) is the last surviving steam drifter of the herring fleet based in Great Yarmouth. A boat hand will show you round and talk nostalgically of the herring fleet in its heyday, when a drifter like the Lydia Eva would cast 65 nets out to sea. Cross the road for the Elizabethan House Museum (tel: 01493-855 746; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Apr–Oct Sun–Fri 10am–4pm), a much restored Tudor house built by a wealthy merchant and laid out to give you an idea of domestic life in the 16th century. Legend has it that a meeting to decide the fate of Charles I (death by execution) was held in the grander of the rooms, known as ‘the Conspiracy Room’. Cromwell is said to have visited the house on several occasions.
The Nelson Museum.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Continue along South Quay for the Nelson Museum (tel: 01493-850 698; www.nelson-museum.co.uk; Feb–mid-Nov Mon–Thu 10am–4pm, Fri and Sun 1–4pm), which tells the story of the national hero, covering his complex love life and affair with Emma Hamilton as well as his naval career. Children can dress up in period costume and walk the wobbly plank.
Behind the Nelson Museum, a series of narrow alleys known as The Rows originally separated medieval tenements. The alleys housed wealthy merchants at one end and bars and brothels at the other. Many of the Row houses were destroyed in World War II or demolished after the war, but the Old Merchant’s House and Row III have been preserved. The nearby Tolhouse (tel: 01493-743 930; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; Apr–Oct daily 10am–4pm), once a medieval gaol, dwells on the fate of criminals and the tales of gaolers. Housing a museum since the 1880s, this ancient building looks strangely out of place among the modern houses and offices. There are plenty of hands-on activities during the school holidays, often in conjunction with the Elizabethan House.
African animals
At Kessingland, south of Lowestoft, Africa Alive! (tel: 01502-740 291; www.africa-alive.co.uk; daily from 9.30am) presents the sights and sounds of Africa. Feed a meerkat, meet the aardvarks and see giraffes, zebras, lions, rhinos and many more species. There is ample to keep youngsters entertained including feeding and talks, a farmyard corner, a discovery centre and an adventure play area. Africa Alive! supports conservation projects in the wild to help secure the future of endangered species.
The nearby Time and Tide Museum (tel: 01493-743 930; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; early Apr–Oct daily 10am–4.30pm, Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun noon–4pm) covers the rise and decline of the fishing industry. The museum occupies the site of a Victorian herring curing works, where the aroma of smoked fish still lingers. Homes of local fishermen and a 1950s fish wharf are recreated and visitors can take the wheel of a coastal drifter. In the Seaside Gallery a collection of postcards and posters, souvenirs and a ‘What the Butler Saw’ Mutoscope celebrate Great Yarmouth’s heyday as a booming seaside resort. There are plenty of hands-on activities to keep children amused.
Great Yarmouth rock for sale.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Marine parade
Be prepared for a neon-lit stretch of amusement arcades and a long row of garish attractions along the golden sands of Great Yarmouth Beach 2 [map] . If you have children in tow there are non-stop activities: rides and chutes on the beach; Pirates Cove mini-golf; the Merrivale Model Village, with its miniature garden railway and Old Penyy Arcade; and the Sea Life aquarium. And if that’s not enough there is always Pleasure Beach further south, with fairground rides galore. Alternatively just buy a bucket and spade for a good time on the golden sands.
The Royal Hotel
A few buildings along the front hint at Great Yarmouth’s heyday. Opposite the Sea Life aquarium, the Royal Hotel dates back to the 18th century. It used to be called the Post House, as this was the pick-up point for the Royal Mail and also for passengers of the London Stage Coach. Dickens stayed here in 1848 and you can see a signed copy of his dinner menu hanging up in reception. Another famous guest was Edward VII, eldest son of Queen Victoria, who (according to the hotel) entertained his famous mistress here, the actress Lillie Langtry. Lillie made regular appearances on stage at the Royal Aquarium.
Children will love colourful Great Yarmouth Beach.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
From Great Yarmouth take the Beccles Road, turning right at the roundabout before the road joins the A12. From here brown signs will direct you to Burgh Castle 3 [map] (tel: 0370-333 1181; www.english-heritage.org.uk; free). The impressive remains of the fort lie about 20 minutes’ walk from the car park. This was one of nine forts on the Saxon Shore, built in AD 300 but probably abandoned 100 years later. The sheer size of the surviving walls is remarkable and the site, overlooking Breydon water and the surrounding marshes, is spectacular.
Somerleyton Estate
Take the A143 going south, passing Fritton Lake Outdoor Centre (tel: 0333-456 0777; www.frittonlakeoc.co.uk) on your left, an adventure centre offering residential holidays and pre-booked activities. To reach Somerleyton Hall and Gardens 4 [map] (tel: 0871-222 4244; www.somerleyton.co.uk; mid-Apr–Sept Tue, Thu, Sun and public holidays 10am–5pm, gardens only on Wed), take the next turning left. A Victorian entrepreneur, Samuel Morton Peto, rebuilt this vast mansion in Tudor-Jacobean style. Peto went bankrupt and the house was sold to Sir Francis Crossley, whose family still own it. The interior features a splendid ballroom with white marble and crimson damask, but for many the highlight is the garden, incorporating a yew maze and a walled garden with glasshouses designed by Joseph Paxton (architect of London’s Crystal Palace). From Somerleyton rejoin the B1074 going east for Lowestoft (6 miles/10km).
Dickens’ Yarmouth
In 1848 Charles Dickens stayed at the Royal Hotel in Great Yarmouth with his colleague and friend, Mark Lemon, and was clearly impressed with the town as he used it as a main setting for David Copperfield. Peggotty, the Copperfields’ faithful housekeeper, tells David it was a well-known fact that ‘Yarmouth was, upon the whole, the finest place in the universe’.
Lowestoft
England’s most easterly town has seen better days. Once a thriving fishing port, Lowestoft 5 [map] now has no fishing fleet and the centre looks unloved and in much need of investment and revitalisation. The plus points are its golden South Beach and Oulton Broad. The glass East Point Pavilion is a striking building with a soft play centre and café. On Heritage Quay in the harbour, the Mincarlo (www.lydiaeva.org.uk; normally Easter–Oct Tue–Sat 10am–3.30pm but check website for details; voluntary donation) is one of the few reminders of Lowestoft’s heyday: the last of its sidewinder trawlers, built in 1961.
The gardens at Somerleyton Hall.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Lowestoft was built on the clifftops and in the early 19th century was famous for its ‘hanging gardens’ which cascaded from merchants’ houses to the base of the cliffs. The merchants had fishing or shipbuilding businesses and used ancient thoroughfares known as scores, named after local characters or public inns, to get down to the north beach area. Some of the scores can still be seen today, while the best examples of Lowestoft’s oldest houses, which survived World War II, can be seen along the High Street.
Maritime Museum
Lowestoft’s excellent little Maritime Museum 6 [map] (tel: 01502-561 963; www.lowestoftmaritimemuseum.co.uk; mid Apr–Oct daily 10am–5pm) is at the northern end of the resort, in a flint cottage below the lighthouse. From East Point Pavilion it’s about 35 minutes on foot, or a short drive through the town. Displays cover Lowestoft’s maritime history from fishing village to thriving port, with model boats, archive film footage and plenty of hands-on attractions for children.
Scroby Sands
Scroby Sands Wind Farm, one of the UK’s first commercial offshore wind farms, has the capability to supply 42,500 homes with energy. The visitor centre (June–Oct; free) has information on renewable energy. In summer boat trips leave regularly from Great Yarmouth beach to see the seals who bask on Scroby Sands bank – look for chalked-up signs on the beach.
Lowestoft has abundant aquatic attractions, but the most popular is Oulton Broad 7 [map] , the southern gateway to the Broads, just 2 miles (3km) inland from Lowestoft beach. You can hire a self-drive boat for the day to explore the broad and the River Waveney or hop on the Waveney Princess (tel: 01502-574 903; www.waveneyrivertours.com) for broad and river cruises. With sailings between April and October, you can glide through the Broadland landscape and maybe catch a glimpse of the elusive marsh harrier.
Beccles
From Lowestoft take the A146 to Beccles 8 [map] . Formerly a flourishing Saxon sea port, it is today an appealing market town and the gateway to the Southern Broads. The dominant monument is the Church of St Michael, where Nelson’s parents married. The handsome bell tower stands detached and offers far-reaching views from the top (guided tour only, enquire at the tourist office). Much of the activity in summer focuses on the marina, where you can feed the ducks, eat ice creams by the river or set off on a walk along the Marsh Trail. To discover the river take a trip on the Big Dog Ferry (tel: 07532-072 761; www.bigdogferry.co.uk), stopping off at the lovely Locks Inn at Geldeston 9 [map] (see below).
Eating Out
Great Yarmouth
The Seafood Restaurant
85 North Quay; tel: 01493-856 009; www.theseafood.co.uk; Mon–Fri noon–1.45pm and 6.30–10.30pm, Sat 6.30–10.30pm.
This outstanding fish restaurant is a family business that has been going for more than 35 years. All the fish is fresh and, where possible, local. Norfolk oysters, spicy seafood soup or crab claws in garlic butter can be followed by sea bass, skate, turbot or sole – or, if you’re pushing the boat out, one of the lobsters from the tank. £££
Somerleyton
The Duke’s Head
Slugs Lane; tel: 01502-730 281; www.dukesheadsomerleyton.co.uk; food: Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm and 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–10.30pm.
This gastropub on the Somerleyton Estate (for more information, click here) places a strong emphasis on locally sourced produce, including Welsh black beef, Norfolk horn lamb and seasonal game from the estate. ££
Oulton Broad
Fancy Cakes Patisserie
142 Bridge Road; tel: 07593-332 253; www.fancycakes.net; daily 9am–6pm.
Ideally located opposite Everett’s Park at Oulton Broad, Fancy Cakes delivers first-class treats for takeaway or to have in the café. The light lunch menu includes soup, a wide range of sandwiches, salads and jacket potatoes. You need to book for the full executive afternoon tea. The mocktails are delicious. £
Beccles
Wine Vaults
2 Blyburgate; tel: 01502-713 381; www.winevaultsbeccles.co.uk; food: Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm and 6.30–9pm, Sat noon–9pm, Sun 10am–9pm.
Expect a warm welcome at this bar and restaurant in the heart of Beccles. The main menu offers sophisticated choices including dishes from the chargrill; the bar menu has good-value traditional meals – fish and chips, local sausages and steak and ale pie. ££
Geldeston
Locks Inn
Lock’s Lane; tel: 01508-518 414; www.geldestonlocks.co.uk; food: summer daily noon–9pm, check website for winter closures.
The riverside setting, cosy beamed interior, award-winning ales and decent pub grub bring in a steady stream of boaties, walkers and anglers. Despite its remote location it is often heaving on Sundays when entertainment is on offer. Most people come by boat, foot or ferry from Beccles and finding it by road can be tricky. Live music on Thursday and Saturday nights, and pagan festival celebrations throughout the year. £