Highlights
The ancient market town of Bury St Edmunds was named after Edmund, the last Saxon king of East Anglia who was slain by the Danes in 869 at Hoxne on the Norfolk border. His body was brought here for reburial in 903 and pilgrims came to worship at his shrine. Today Bury is a bustling market town, with monastic ruins and a large number of historic buildings. From here it is a short drive to the beautiful villages of the Stour Valley which owe their splendour to the wool trade that flourished in former times.
St Edmund’s Abbey ruins.
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Bury St Edmunds
One of East Anglia’s finest towns, Bury St Edmunds 1 [map] retains Georgian and Victorian buildings, immaculate gardens and sufficient ruins to give you some idea of the scale and splendour of its former abbey. It’s also a foodie’s delight with more than its fair share of tempting cafés and eateries.
Start in the centre at Angel Hill, a square of Georgian and other buildings, overlooked by the ivy-clad Angel Hotel. It was here that Charles Dickens gave readings from Nicholas Nickleby and David Copperfield. He stayed at the inn in 1835, 1859 and 1861 and was pleased with the ‘handsome little town of cleanly and thriving appearance’ – so much so that he organised for Mr Pickwick to visit the town a few years later. Today the Angel is a four-star boutique hotel and restaurant. On the south side the square is bordered by the Athenaeum, hub of social life in Georgian times.
Off Angel Hill are the immaculate and colourful Abbey Gardens (Mon–Sat 7.30am–dusk, Sun 9am–dusk; free) created within the walls of the former medieval monastery. Beyond the neat flower beds are the ruins of St Edmund’s Abbey, in some cases mere mounds of rubble. The most substantial ruins are those lying behind the neighbouring Cathedral. The abbey was named after King Edmund, who was buried here, and in the Middle Ages it became one of the richest Benedictine foundations in England. It was here in 1214 that 25 barons swore to exact their rights from King John, leading to the signing of Magna Carta the following year. In 1327 the abbey was sacked by the townspeople in a protest against monastic control and the Abbey Gate was destroyed. In 1539 the abbey was dissolved and most of the buildings dismantled. The finely preserved gatehouse at the entrance of the gardens dates from 1347.
Statue of St Edmund in the Abbey Gardens.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
St Edmundsbury Cathedral
The church you see today dates back to the 15th century but was only granted cathedral status in 1914. The Gothic-style tower lantern (seen from the far end of the nave) was built in 2005 with a grant from the Millennium Commission and local fund-raising. The tower has become a new city landmark. Exiting the cathedral you pass the Norman Tower, built as the main gatehouse to the abbey precincts.
St Mary’s church
Next along is St Mary’s Church (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, until 3pm in winter), built between 1290 and 1490 as part of the abbey complex. The finest feature is the hammer-beam roof, with 11 pairs of large angels, attended by lesser angels on the wall plates, and a procession of saints, martyrs, prophets and kings. It’s difficult to see the detail of the dark wood but the mirrored trolley helps, or you can ask for the lights to be switched on. Behind the altar at the far end of the church lies the very simple tomb of Mary Tudor, sister of Henry VIII. Her remains were brought here from the abbey after the Reformation.
The ornate interior of the Corn Exchange, which is now a pub.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Greene King Brewery
You will soon come to the Greene King Brewery (tel: 01284-714 297; www.greeneking.co.uk; guided tours Mon–Tue 2pm, Wed–Fri 11am and 2pm, Sat 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm and 3.30pm, Sun 11.30pm). Greene King has been brewing in Bury St Edmunds since 1799 and a guided tour gives you an interesting insight into the whole brewing process. The tour includes views of the town from the roof of the Art Deco Brew House and tutored tastings of the full range of beers in the Beer Café.
An exhibit at the Moyse’s Hall Museum.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Opposite the brewery, the delightful Theatre Royal (tel: 01284-769 505; www.theatreroyal.org) is the last remaining Regency-era playhouse in the country. It is run by the National Trust and puts on a lively programme of professional and community performances.
Abbeygate and Cornhill
Return to Abbey Hill and walk up Abbeygate, a busy shopping street, to the Cornhill and Buttermarket. The neoclassical Corn Exchange is the predominant building, now occupied by a Wetherspoon pub. Nearby is Smiths Row, an inviting gallery of contemporary art with an affordable craft shop. Across the Cornhill Moyse’s Hall is one of Britain’s last surviving Norman houses; today it’s a tourist information spot and a small town museum. Bury’s market on the Cornhill and Buttermarket on Wednesday and Saturday mornings is a colourful affair and one of the best in the region. West of here, The Arc is the town’s latest (and controversial) shopping centre, also home to the Apex entertainment centre.
The Greene King Brewery
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Ickworth House
From Bury take the A143 southwest towards Haverhill. At Horringer follow the signs for Ickworth House 2 [map] (tel: 01284-735 270; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; house: mid-Mar–Oct Thu–Tue 11am–5pm, also Wed in school hols, Nov–Dec daily 11am–3pm, garden and park: daily 9am–5.30pm, until 4.30pm Nov–Dec). The estate is worth visiting for the grounds alone, with eight waymarked trails for walking and cycling. The neoclassical design of the house, comprising a huge rotunda with wings connected by curving corridors, was conceived in 1795 by the eccentric Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol. ‘When God created the human race, he made men, women and Herveys’. Attributed to Voltaire, the quote refers to the second Lord Hervey but has been used for subsequent and equally unconventional Herveys who have lived here. (The information plaques along the terrace will put you in the picture).
Pint-sized pub
The quaint Nutshell pub, by the Corn Exchange in Bury St Edmunds, has made the Guinness World Records as the smallest pub in the country. If you want a pint, bear in mind there’s only room for around a dozen drinkers – and no space for food. One of the famous curiosities within the olde-worlde interior is the mummified black cat hanging above the bar that was found during restoration work.
The landlord of The Nutshell, Britain’s smallest pub.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Today the estate is run by the National Trust. State rooms in the rotunda are richly furnished, with vast sparkling chandeliers (each one costing £3,000 to clean!), fine portraits by Reynolds, Gainsborough and Velazquez, and a stunning collection of Georgian silver. The servants’ basement gives you a good insight into downstairs life in the 1930s.
Shoppers’ delight
Bury St Edmunds has an excellent market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, and 60 percent of its shops are independently run. The prosperous wool villages have more than their fair share of antiques shops, art galleries and shops, with the occasional chic boutique. In June local artists open their doors for Open Studios (www.suffolkopenstudios.org) and you can buy direct from the artist. For local produce and hand-made gifts try the town and country markets.
Local crafts and gifts.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Clare and Cavendish
Turning right out of Ickworth follow the A143 for 8 miles (13km) and turn left at Stradishall (B1063), signed to Clare 3 [map] . The village lies 5 miles (8km) along this road, its centre dominated by the splendid ‘wool’ Church of St Peter and St Paul. One of Suffolk’s best examples of pargetting can be seen on the quaint Ancient House (the local museum) opposite the south porch of the church. Vestiges of the Norman keep and the old railway station buildings lie within the 25-acre (10-hectare) Castle Country Park, the starting point for waymarked walks.
Follow the A1092 east to the village of Cavendish 4 [map] . The scene of pink thatched cottages flanking the green, and the medieval church tower rising behind, is one of the most photographed in East Anglia. In more turbulent times Wat Tyler, leader of the Peasants’ Revolt in 1381, was killed at Smithfield by John Cavendish, arch enemy of the peasants, who lived in a house on the green. Cavendish was then beheaded in Bury St Edmunds by Tyler’s supporters.
Pargetting on the Ancient House in Clare.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Long Melford
Continue 4 miles (7km) along the A1092 for Long Melford 5 [map] . The village derives its name from a former mill and ford, the ‘Long’ appropriately describing the 2-mile (3km) road running through the village. This wide thoroughfare is lined by delightful 16th-century buildings, a remarkable number of them occupied by antiques shops, art galleries and specialist shops. The Perpendicular Church of the Holy Trinity, crowning the hill above the spacious green and seen from afar, is one of the most beautiful in Suffolk. The light-filled nave and chancel have over a hundred windows, and the north aisle has exceptionally fine stained glass, depicting friends and relatives of the Clopton family of Kentwell, the clothiers who rebuilt the church.
The church and cottages on the green in Cavendish.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Melford Hall
Facing the village green is Melford Hall 6 [map] (tel: 01787-379 228; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Apr–Oct Wed–Sun noon–5pm), a mellow red-brick Tudor mansion with six octagonal turrets. The house was devastated by fire in 1942 but restored by the Hyde Parker family whose ancestors acquired the house back in 1786. Rooms open to the public include the original banqueting hall, the Regency library and memorabilia of Beatrix Potter, who was related to the family and frequently visited the hall.
Step back to Tudor England
Kentwell Hall is not just a Tudor house. History here is brought alive by Tudor re-creations, variously featuring medieval pageants, celebrations, activities and everyday life in Tudor times. Special events take place on many weekends throughout the year (see www.kentwell.co.uk for details). Youngsters can also enjoy the Hall grounds and the farm, which was built from scratch in Tudor style for rare-breed farm animals.
Tudor life re-created at Kentwell Hall.
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Kentwell Hall
At the northern edge of the village and signposted from the green is Kentwell Hall 7 [map] (tel: 01787-310 207; www.kentwell.co.uk; house: Apr–Oct days vary, see website for details, gardens and farm: 11am–5pm, house: noon–4pm), an Elizabethan red-brick manor house. The interior was devastated by fire in the 1820s and was abandoned until the 1970s when the present owners moved in. It has been redeveloped and today is best known for its Tudor or ‘Through the Ages’ re-creations.
Stained glass in the Church of the Holy Trinity, Long Melford.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Sudbury
Take the B1064 south for Sudbury, a market town on the River Stour best known as the birthplace of Thomas Gainsborough (1727–88), the great English portrait and landscape painter. His bronze statue stands at the top of the market square, and an outstanding collection of his art is on display at Gainsborough’s House 8 [map] (46 Gainsborough Street; tel: 01787-372 958; www.gainsborough.org; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm), a Georgian building where the artist was born and where he spent his early years. The works on display allow you to explore Gainsborough’s whole career, from early portraits and local landscapes to later works from his London period. The exhibition focuses on Gainsborough’s life as well as his works of art, with displays of personal memorabilia. The house runs a series of vibrant temporary exhibitions and events throughout the year, and hosts excellent print workshops and summer courses.
A carved wooden pillar on the Guildhall in Lavenham.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Lavenham
From Sudbury the route follows the B1115 and B1071 to Lavenham 9 [map] . This is the very finest of the wool towns, preserving an extraordinary number of medieval buildings, many of them half-timbered and tilting at alarming angles. Of the 350 buildings listed as being of architectural and historical interest, most date from between 1400 and 1500 and the old centre looks much as it did in that era. At one time this was the 14th richest town in Britain, richer than either Lincoln or York, and famous for the blue broadcloth which it exported to Europe. The town is heralded by the magnificent flint tower of the huge late-Perpendicular Church of St Peter and St Paul. This was funded primarily by local cloth merchants and the top of the tower carries over 30 coats of arms of the Spring family, the principal wool merchants of Lavenham.
The Little Hall in Lavenham.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Market Place
The stunning market place has one of the best examples of half-timbered buildings in the country. The Guildhall (tel: 01787-247 646; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Mar–Oct daily 11am–5pm, Nov–Feb Fri–Sun 11am–4pm) was the meeting place of the Guild of Corpus Christi, an organisation which regulated wool production. Since the decline of the trade, the building has variously served as a prison, workhouse, almshouse, woolstore and, during World War II, a nursery school, restaurant and home for evacuees. It has an exhibition on the wool trade and timber-framed buildings, along with an enticing Tudor tea room and garden.
Nearby Little Hall (tel: 01787-247 019; www.littlehall.org.uk; Apr–Oct Tue–Sun 1–4pm, Mon 10am–1pm) is a lovely ochre, half-timbered building owned by the Suffolk Building Preservation Trust. Built in the 14th century for a local family of clothiers, it was enlarged and embellished in Tudor times. The antiques, paintings, china and other objets d’art on view today are the collection of the Gayer Anderson twin brothers, who restored the house in the 1920s.
Kersey
Beautiful old wool towns and villages are two a penny in this region. Tiny Kersey, 9 miles (14km) southeast of Lavenham, oozes charm and was described by the art historian Nikolaus Pevsner as ‘the most picturesque village in South Suffolk’. A timeless village of timbered houses and colour-washed cottages, it is set on a steep-sided valley and crowned by the flint tower of its church. Nearby Hadleigh is a market town with some good examples of timber-framed buildings and pargetting.
Harry Potter backdrop
Unsurprisingly, the medieval town of Lavenham has been the backdrop of a number of films and TV series: Stanley Kubrick’s Barry Lyndon, Michael Reeves’ Witchfinder General, Apotheosis 2 with John Lennon and Yoko Ono and the popular early 1990s TV series Lovejoy. More recently, in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Lavenham was the location for scenes in Godric’s Hollow, birthplace of Harry Potter and his wizarding headmaster, Albus Dumbledore.
Eating Out
Bury St Edmunds
Gastrono-me
2 St John’s Street; tel: 01284-718 665; www.gastrono-me.co.uk; Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm.
If it’s breakfast you want, this is the place, serving up a fabulous feast until noon. You get everything from granola and pancakes to eggs, bacon and ‘posh’ baked beans. For lunch there’s a wide range of dishes from the UK and beyond. Great value and good fun. £
Maison Bleue
30–1 Churchgate Street; tel: 01284-760 623; www.maisonbleue.co.uk; Tue–Sat noon–2pm and 7–9.30pm.
This is the best place to eat in town: outstanding locally sourced seafood in a charming 17th-century house, with chic contemporary decor. French fine dining is complemented by innovative twists highlighting flavour. Two days’ notice (and well-lined pockets) are required for the truly gastronomic plateau de fruits de mer. Meat dishes are also served and there are good-value set lunch and dinner menus. £££
Bildeston
The Bildeston Crown
High Street; tel: 01449-740 510; www.thebildestoncrown.com; food: daily noon–2.45pm and 7–9.45pm.
Former coaching inn, now an award-winning hotel, restaurant and bar owned by a Suffolk farmer who produces meat from his own Red Poll herd. Choose from pub classics, house specials or, for the ultimate dining experience, the seven-course tasting menu (for the whole table). Produce, whether it’s Sutton Hoo chicken or Suffolk Gold cheese, is locally sourced wherever possible. £££
Cavendish
The George
The Green, Peacocks Road; tel: 01787-280 248; www.thecavendishgeorge.co.uk; food: Mon–Sat noon–2pm and 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–3pm.
The George is a charming 16th-century restaurant with rooms in the pretty village of Cavendish, where you’ll find a regularly changing menu to complement the seasons, plus produce from the owners’ garden. Shell-on smoked prawns with treacle sourdough, followed by pork belly or the daily fish special, finishing with a pecan tart with blood orange salsa. ££
Long Melford
The Black Lion
The Green; tel: 01787-312 356; www.blacklionhotel.net; food: daily 7.30–9.30am, noon–2pm and 7–9pm.
This historic hotel, overlooking the green, lures tourists and locals alike for breakfasts, light lunches, clotted cream teas, full meals and Sunday roasts. Enjoy charred English asparagus in season, rosemary-crusted lamb rump or pan-fried sea bass in a very traditional English setting, with roaring log fires in winter. ££
Lavenham
Number Ten
10 Lady Street; tel: 01787-249 438; www.ten-lavenham.co.uk; food: daily noon–2.30pm and 6–9pm.
This wine bar and restaurant is located in a stunning 15th-century building. Its intimate informal ambience has a small but interesting menu to match. Seasonal delights include warm spring onion and stilton tart and fresh local raspberry crème brûlée. Sunday evening is a pizza and pasta menu only. ££