Highlights
The Brecks is a strange landscape of rolling sandy heaths and large tracts of thick forest. Once covered with heather, grasses, gorse and bracken, many acres are now planted with lofty pine trees, while remaining stretches of heathland are vital habitats for wildlife such as the rare stone curlew and woodlark. The very earliest signs of life can be seen at Grime’s Graves, where Neolithic man dug over 400 mines and pits. Thetford Forest is a great spot for outdoor activities, while Thetford and Swaffham, both prosperous trading towns in medieval times, are the main market towns of the area.
Exploring Thetford Forest.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Thetford
In the heart of The Brecks, Thetford 1 [map] was the ancient capital of East Anglia and is traditionally thought to have been the residence of Boudicca, Queen of the Iceni Tribe. At the time of the Domesday Book it was the sixth largest settlement in the country and boasted its own cathedral. The ruins of the great Cluniac Priory can still be explored. The town was also birthplace of the famous revolutionary philosopher Thomas Paine. On a more frivolous note, Thetford features as Walmington-on-Sea in the hit BBC series Dad’s Army and now has its very own Dad’s Army Museum and a bronze statue of Captain Mainwaring sitting by the river.
Thetford Priory.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Along the central White Hart Street you’re unlikely to miss the charming timbered Ancient House (tel: 01842-752 599; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; Apr–Sept Tue–Sat 10am–5pm, Oct–Mar Tue–Sat 10am–4pm), a rare survival from the Tudor period and quite a contrast to Thetford’s many newer builds. It is home to the Museum of Thetford Life, and includes replicas of the Thetford treasure discovered with a metal detector in 1979 (now in the British Museum), exhibits on flint-knapping and warrening, and a section on Prince Frederick Duleep Singh (1868–1926), last Maharajah of the Punjab, who bequeathed the house to the town in 1921.
The Peddar’s Way
Castle Acre was built at the crossing of the Nar beside the 46-mile (74km) Peddar’s Way, the Roman road between central East Anglia and the Norfolk Coast, ending at Holme-next-the-Sea. Now a long-distance footpath, it is well marked and easy going. Castle Acre, with its tempting cafés and pubs, along with accommodation, is a popular stop-off point. For information on the trail see www.nationaltrail.co.uk.
Upon leaving the museum, turn right, passing the Church of St Peter, then immediately left for King Street and the statue of Thomas Paine. Retrace your footsteps, cross White Hart Street for Minstergate, then walk through the subway to reach Thetford Priory (Apr–Sept 8am–6pm, Oct–Mar 8am–4pm; free). After the graffiti-splattered subway these evocative ruins lift the spirit. Founded in the 12th century, the priory was home to treasured relics and became a magnet for pilgrims. Until its suppression by Henry VIII in 1546 this was the burial place of the earls and dukes of Norfolk.
Thetford Forest
For some memorable outdoor adventures, head northwest on the B1107 for Thetford Forest. Turn left when you see signs for High Lodge Thetford Forest 2 [map] (www.forestry.gov.uk/highlodge; daily, check website for closing times; vehicle charge). To explore the forest take a walking trail or cycle path (hire from www.bikeartthetford.co.uk), and let the kids loose at WildPlay or Go Ape (tel: 0845-643 9154; www.goape.co.uk; prebooking advisable), a great tree-top adventure course with zip wires, tarzan swings and rope ladders. You can even hire a Segway.
Thomas Paine
Thetford’s most celebrated son is Thomas Paine (1737–1809), regarded as one of the greatest radical political writers of the Enlightenment. Paine emigrated to America, where he advocated American independence from Britain in his free-thinking pamphlets, but his greatest work is the Rights of Man, in which he espoused the cause of the French Revolution. Paine is commemorated with a statue in front of King’s House, Thetford.
The bronze statue of Thomas Paine in front of King’s House.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Grime’s Graves
Exiting the forest turn right and take the first left, a narrow road towards Santon Downham. After the village follow the road north to join the A134. Turn left and you’ll soon see a sign for Grime’s Graves 3 [map] (tel: 01842-810 656; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm, Oct Wed–Sun 10am–5pm). This is a 96-acre (39-hectare), lunar-like landscape pitted with over 400 mine shafts. Late Neolithic miners, using antler picks and shovels made from animal shoulder blades, dug deep for the distinctive black flint, hacking through alternating layers of chalk and the paler, less desirable flint to reach the coveted third layer. One shaft is open to the public and visitors can don a hard hat and descend a 30ft (9-metre) ladder to the bottom of what was a working flint mine. The landscape here is rich in birdlife with skylarks, woodpeckers, nightjars and the very occasional stone curlew.
Green Britain
Just off the A47 north of Swaffham lies the Green Britain Centre (www.greenbritaincentre.co.uk; Sept–July Mon–Sat and Aug daily 10am–4pm; guided tours normally at 11am, 1pm and 3pm; visitor centre free, charge for turbine). The wind turbine here has a lofty viewing platform, designed by leading British architect Norman Foster. You have to climb up 300 steps for the view, but it’s fairly easy going.
Pew carving in the Church of St Peter and St Paul, Swaffham.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Rejoin the A134, and unless you want to go straight to Swaffham, cross the roundabout at Mundford, and follow the A134 for Oxburgh Hall 4 [map] (www.nationaltrust.org.uk; daily Apr–Sept 11am–5pm, Oct 11am–4pm; see website for winter opening times). This is an imposing moated mansion, castle-like in its appearance, with a massive Tudor gatehouse. It was built in 1482 by Sir Edmund Bedingfeld and the same family has lived here ever since. In 1950 the 9th baronet was forced to sell and the house was bought by a property developer who intended to demolish the mansion and replace it with 70 houses. But just in the nick of time, three female family members sold their homes and brought the house back to the family. It has been run by the National Trust since 1952. The interior is largely Victorian and features a priest’s hiding hole and needlework hangings executed by Mary Queen of Scots during her captivity.
The buttercross and statue of Ceres in Swaffham.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Swaffham
Continue to Swaffham via Cockley Cley 5 [map] , with a pub that boasts the unusual name of Twenty Churchwardens. At Swaffham 6 [map] the main focus of life is the Market Cross, a large square with fine Georgian houses and a buttercross (where butter-sellers once displayed their wares), crowned by a statue of Ceres, Roman goddess of grain crops. The square is the scene of a weekly Saturday market and an auction selling bric-à-brac. Off Market Place the Church of St Peter and St Paul has a superb double hammerbeam roof, embellished with 192 carved angels. Note too the pews with medieval carvings which include a small man and a dog on a chain. This is the so-called Pedlar of Swaffham. Legend has it that a Thetford man, John Chapman, went to London to seek his fortune and met a man who dreamt he had found treasure under an oak tree in Swaffham. Chapman found the treasure and with the proceeds funded the rebuilding of the church. The Pedlar features on the town sign in Market Cross.
Last but by no means least comes Castle Acre 7 [map] , marked off the main road going north from Swaffham. This is a jewel of a village, with rose-clad flint and brick cottages, heralded by the old bailey gatehouse. It is also a rare survival of a Norman-planned settlement, with extensive remains of a castle, priory and massive defences. All three were built by the family of William de Warenne, a veteran of the battle of Hastings. By the late Middle Ages Castle Acre had sunk into relative obscurity, the castle was abandoned and the priory suppressed in 1537. A path off Bailey Street in the village centre leads to the west gate of the castle (free) on a grassy mound in glorious green countryside. The castle is thought to have been built as a combination of fortress and aristocratic residence soon after the Norman Conquest. Wander around the earthworks at this peaceful spot, then head to the far side of the village for Castle Acre Priory (tel: 01760-755 394; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm, Oct daily 10am–5pm, Nov–Mar Sat–Sun 10am–4pm). One of the largest and best preserved monastic sites in the country, it is hugely atmospheric with evocative ruins in a beautiful, tranquil setting. The richly decorated west front, intended to emphasise the prosperity and piety of its founders, is the real show-stopper, but there are other substantial ruins, including the prior’s lodging with rooms intact.
Eating Out
Thetford
Elveden Inn
Brandon Road; tel: 01842-890 876; www.elvedeninn.com; food: Mon–Sat 7.30–9.30am, noon–9pm, Sun 7.30–10am, noon–8pm.
This award-winning pub on the Norfolk/Suffolk border is part of the Guinness-family-owned estate of Elveden, and much of the produce comes from the estate or from other local producers. The full house menu is served all day and there are various Sunday lunch options. Expect local cask ales and of course the best Guinness. ££
Oxborough
Bedingfeld Arms
Opposite Oxburgh Hall; tel: 01366-328 300; www.bedingfeldarms.co.uk; food: Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–9pm, Sun noon–8.30pm.
This late 18th-century coach house has well-kept ales, spring lamb and game from the family farm, vegetables and herbs from the kitchen garden. Offerings are a notch up from the average pub: pan-seared duck breast, Norfolk coast moules marinière or venison burger with bacon. ££
Cockley Cley
Twenty Churchwardens
Swaffham Road; tel: 01760-721 439; food: Mon–Sat noon–2pm and 7–9pm, Sun noon–2pm.
This 200-year-old ex-village school serves Adnams Ales and traditional no-frills pub grub, namely home-made pies with veg and gravy (the Churchwarden pie is a favourite). Full of local characters, especially on a Sunday. Cash only. £
Swaffham
CoCoes Café Deli
Strattons Hotel, Ash Close; tel: 01760-723 845; www.strattonshotel.com; Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 8.30am–5pm.
Set within the grounds of Strattons Hotel, this excellent family-friendly café serves all-day breakfasts, light lunches and a great range of home-made cakes. You can buy local deli products here, too. Dinner and afternoon tea are available at the hotel restaurant (booking required). £
Castle Acre
The Ostrich
Stocks Green; tel: 01760-755 398; www.ostrichcastleacre.com; food: daily noon–3pm, Mon–Sat also 6–9pm.
This inviting coaching inn, which also offers accommodation, has stood on the green for over 400 years. There’s a good mix of pub staples and pizzas, plus more exotic choices such as spiced chicken shawarma or grilled lamb kofta. Tasty vegetarian dishes too. ££