Highlights
This route takes you from Wells-next-the-Sea to Cromer, taking in wide stretches of beach, marsh and mud flats, pebble shores and seaside resorts. At low tide the sea almost disappears into the distance leaving a wealth of seashells and shallow pools for children to play in. Inland the landscape is gently rolling with pretty villages, flint cottages and plenty of welcoming pubs. Be aware that the A149 is very narrow in parts and villages like Cley-next-the-Sea can become traffic-clogged in high season. The western stretch of the north Norfolk coast is covered in Tour 3 (for more information, click here).
Seal-spotting trip to Blakeney Point.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Before the silting up of the harbour, Wells-next-the-Sea 1 [map] really did sit next to the sea. It was a major port of East Anglia and whelks were its main industry. Although a shadow of its former self, it is still a working port. Fishing boats bring in crabs, lobsters and whelks, and coasters still anchor along the quayside. The Dutch North Sea clipper, Albatros, dating from 1899, is a permanent feature here, offering real ales and Dutch specialities above and below deck, live music at weekends (ranging from punk to Irish folk) and even bed and breakfast (www.albatroswells.co.uk). The resort has a lively centre with small shops, abundant cafés, chippies and stalls selling seafood. It also has a lovely leafy Georgian square, called the Buttlands, with two former coaching inns, both offering attractive accommodation and fine dining.
Colourful beach hut, Wells-next-the-Sea.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Retail treats
Cley-next-the-Sea’s High Street boasts a fine selection of little shops: the family-run Cley Smokehouse (www.cleysmokehouse.com) where everything is smoked on site, the neighbouring Made In Cley (www.madeincley.co.uk) with tempting pieces of pottery made on the premises, the Pink Foot Gallery (www.pinkfootgallery.co.uk) devoted to contemporary nature-inspired art and Picnic Fayre (www.picnic-fayre.co.uk), an award-winning deli in an historic old forge. Inland, Holt has some fine art galleries, two excellent bookshops, several stylish clothes boutiques, plus Bakers and Larners (www.bakersandlarners.co.uk), described by some as ‘the Fortnum & Mason of East Anglia’.
The beach
The vast and dramatic sandy beach, backed by pine-clad dunes, is a mile from the centre, and can be accessed either by foot along The Bank or on the narrow-gauge harbour railway. At low tide it’s over a mile down to the water’s edge, but when the tide turns it comes in fast and can catch tourists unaware. This is probably Norfolk’s best surveyed beach, equipped with a volunteer coastwatch (www.coastwatchwells.org.uk) and official lifeguards, on duty from early July until early September (10am–6pm).
Paddling at Blakeney Point.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Stiffkey
The A149 passes right through the little village of Stiffkey 2 [map] , traditionally famous for ‘Stewkey blues’, or cockles, collected from the salt marshes to the north of the village and coloured blue from the mud. Today, however, any cockles you find on menus or at seafood stalls will have come from King’s Lynn. The Rescue Wooden Boats charitable trust (www.rescuewoodenboats.com) is working to restore and re-use crab and whelk boats and other heritage working craft. Their Maritime Heritage Centre (Apr–Oct Sat–Sun 11am–3pm) is signed to the left off the main road.
Blakeney
Next along is Morston 3 [map] , where ferries depart from the quay for seal-spotting trips to Blakeney Point 4 [map] (tel: 01263-740 753; www.bishopsboats.com; mid-Mar–Oct daily according to tides; advance booking advisable). Blakeney Point is home to a colony of common and grey seals, which bask on the sands when the tide is low. Trips last roughly an hour but when tides and conditions allow, boats can also stop on Blakeney Point Nature Reserve, adding between 30 minutes and 1 hour to the trip. The tip of Blakeney Point is the summer home of about a dozen species of seabirds, including a large colony of terns.
Blakeney 5 [map] itself, a little further on, is a lovely little coastal village of flint-cobbled cottages, with a fine church and a tiny harbour with small yachts and footpaths along mudflats and salt marshes. Birdwatchers flock here all year round and it’s very popular for sailing. Like so many of the coastal villages, Blakeney was a major harbour before the silting up of the estuary. Now only small boats can navigate the waters.
The North Norfolk Steam Railway
The resort of Sheringham was a small fishing village before the North Norfolk Railway was established in 1887. It was axed 77 years later by Dr Beeching, but local enthusiasts were determined to preserve Norfolk’s most scenic stretch of railway, with steam services starting in 1976. The scenic Poppy Line of The North Norfolk Steam Railway (www.nnrailway.co.uk), operated largely by volunteers, carries over 165,000 passengers a year and chugs five miles (8km) between Sheringham and the lovely little Georgian town of Holt.
Conductor on The North Norfolk Steam Railway.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Cley-next-the-Sea
East of Blakeney, Cley-next-the Sea 6 [map] (pronounced ‘Cly’) became the first Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve in 1926. The combination of salt marshes, reed beds and lagoons attract a remarkable amount of birdlife, both breeding and migratory. Details of local sightings are on display at the excellent eco-friendly Visitor Centre (daily 10am–5pm, until 4pm in winter; free) of the Norfolk Wildlife Trust Cley Marshes Nature Reserve 7 [map] beyond the village on the right. Lazy birders can sit in the panoramic café with its wonderful coastal views, spotting birds using the telescopes provided. Serious ones will spend the day in the reeds and marshes, or in the hides that provide fine views over saline pools and scrapes. There is good birding all year round, whether it’s spotted redshank in spring, avocet or spoonbills in summer, waders in August and September or wildfowl in winter. Birds apart, Cley is a delightful village of flint and brick cottages and enticing little shops (for more information, click here). A prominent landmark is the 18th-century Cley Windmill, which has been converted into a very appealing guesthouse (for more information, click here). The architectural highlight of the village is the Church of St Margaret on the Holt Road, a glorious medieval church with a soaring tower, beautifully carved porch and fine carvings inside. Sadly the work on the church in the 14th century was never completed: the Black Death in 1349 killed half the population of Cley and work came to a standstill.
Cley Windmill.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Sheringham Park
Continue along the A149 through Salthouse to Weybourne, turning right opposite the church, then immediately left, following signs to Bodham. When you reach the A148 turn left. In about 1.5 miles (2km) you will see a sign for Sheringham Park 8 [map] (tel: 01263-820 550; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; daily dawn to dusk; free but parking charge for non-members), designed in 1812 by landscape gardener Humphry Repton. This splendid 1,000-acre (405-hectare) park has landscaped and woodland gardens with some stunning coastal views, particularly from the Gazebo, a tower at treetop height. The park can be explored on waymarked trails.
The walled garden at Felbrigg Hall.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Felbrigg Hall
Continue on the A148 for about 4 miles (6km), turning right on to the B1436, signed Felbrigg Hall 9 [map] (tel: 01263-837 444; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; early Mar–Oct Sat–Tues 11am–5pm, daily during school holidays), a wonderful Jacobean mansion filled with 18th-century furnishings and paintings collected on the Grand Tour. No less impressive is the extensive parkland, with woodland and lakeside paths and a lovely walled garden with espalier fruit trees, abundant flowering plants and an 18th-century octagonal dovecote.
Cromer Pier.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Cromer
The final stop is Cromer ) [map] , dramatically poised on a high bluff. This pleasantly old-fashioned seaside resort became popular with the advent of the railway. Behind the long sand and shingle beach the town centre is dominated by its parish church whose soaring tower, with 172 steps, is the tallest in Norfolk. Cromer is best known for its pier, whose Pavilion Theatre still packs in audiences, and for the famous Cromer crab, sold throughout Norfolk from Easter to October. You won’t have to go far in town before finding a stall or restaurant offering Cromer dressed crab.
Seafront supper, Cromer.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
The splendid Cromer Pier lies below the Victorian Hôtel de Paris, whose guest list includes the Prince of Wales (the future Edward VII) and Oscar Wilde, who stayed here in 1892. One of the few surviving piers along the East Anglian coastline, it has a restaurant, gift shop, a life boat station and the only ‘End of the Pier Show’ in Europe. Cromer’s Pavilion Theatre (www.cromerpier.co.uk) has been producing a live variety show since 1977. Shows take place from Easter to September and are full of glitz and glamour, with West End and Broadway-style song and dance numbers. Celebrities appear from time to time.
A tidal surge in December 2013 nearly put a stop to the show. This wouldn’t have been the first disaster. The wooden jetty built in 1822 was swept away in a storm, the replacement washed away before the paint was barely dry, the third lasted until 1897 when it was torpedoed amidships by a coal boat during a storm. Today’s pleasure pier dates from 1901. Despite an attempt to blow it up in World War II to prevent it being used as a landing stage by invading forces, damage wrought by the 1953 and 2013 tidal surges and a bulk barge slicing through it in 1993, it is still here today – a testament to Victorian engineering.
Blickling Hall
Ten miles (16km) south of Cromer, Blickling Hall (www.nationaltrust.org.uk; daily noon–5pm; weekends only in winter noon–4pm; park free) creates quite an impact: a magnificent red-brick Jacobean mansion crowned by turrets, chimneys and gables. The interior gives you an insight into both upstairs and downstairs life in the Edwardian era but the extensive grounds are the main attraction with a lake amidst the park and woodland. There are several miles of footpaths and bridle paths and cycles can be hired.
Exploring the gardens at Blickling Hall.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Cromer museums and zoo
At the end of the promenade the Henry Blogg Museum (tel: 01263-511 294; www.rnli.org.uk/henryblogg; Apr–Sept Tue–Sun 10am–5pm, Oct–Mar until 4pm; free) is named after Cromer’s celebrated coxwain (1876–1954) who served for 53 years, saved 873 lives and became a national hero. The centrepiece is Blogg’s life boat, H.F. Bailey. Inland, next to Cromer Church, the Cromer Museum (tel: 01263-513 543; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun noon–4pm) gives you an insight into Cromer when it was a Victorian seaside resort with fine hotels. South of the town the Amazona Zoo (Hall Road; tel: 01263-510 741; www.amazonazoo.co.uk; daily mid-Mar–Oct 10am–5pm, Nov–Dec and mid-Feb–mid-Mar 10am–3.30pm) has animal species from tropical South America in a wooded setting. The zoo works with conservationists and the animals are not taken from the wild.
Eating Out
Wells-next-the-Sea
The Buttlands; tel: 01328-710 209; www.crownhotelnorfolk.co.uk; Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm and 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–9pm.
Part of The Flying Kiwi Inns group, owned by New Zealand-born celebrity chef Chris Coubrough, this boutique hotel offers fine dining in the restaurant’s spacious orangery. Afternoon teas are on offer too – with or without Prosecco. ££
Blakeney
Blakeney Hotel
The Quay; tel: 01263-740 797; www.blakeney-hotel.co.uk; daily noon–2pm and 6.30–9pm, Sat until 9.30pm.
One of the coast’s loveliest hotels, the Blakeney serves first-class food with fine views across the estuary. Non-residents are welcome at breakfast, lunch or dinner. Come for Blakeney fish soup, home-made burgers, whole dressed local crab, fillet of sea bass or roast Norfolk fillet of beef. £££
Morston
A149 between Blakeney and Stiffkey; tel: 01263-741 041; www.morstonhall.com; dinner daily at 7.15pm, lunch Sun at 12.15pm.
Luxury dining in a smart country-house hotel. Michelin-starred chef Galton Blackiston features local produce such as Blakeney lobster and Morston mussels on the menu. The dinner tasting menu of seven courses changes daily. Reservations essential. £££
Cromer
No 1 Cromer
1 New Street; tel: 01263-512 316; www.no1cromer.com; downstairs: daily noon–8pm, closes 7pm Sun; upstairs: Wed–Fri noon–3pm and 5.30–9pm, Sat noon–8.30pm, Sun noon–7pm; Ice Cromer: 11am–8pm.
Upmarket chippie opened by Galton Blackiston of Morston Hall (see above) and an upstairs restaurant with great sea, pier and sunset views. The short menu may feature Cromer crab burger, seafood paella and barbeque chicken supreme. End with a hot sugar donut or ice cream at Ice Cromer on the corner of New Street. ££
The Old Rock Shop Bistro
10 Hamilton Road; tel: 01263-511926; www.theoldrockshopbistro.co.uk; daily 8am–6pm.
Popular bistro billed as serving light breakfasts, tasty lunches and hearty dinners. Choose from Cromer crab specials or Thai fishcakes, freshly baked pastries to sticky barbeque ribs. £
Holt
The Folly Tearoom
4 Hoppers Yard, Bull Street; tel: 01263-713 569; www.follytearoom.co.uk; Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, also July–Aug Sun 10am–4pm.
Perfectly hidden away and with a delightful garden for summer eating, this is the quintessential English tearoom. All the ‘Folly’ menus are mouth-watering, from the ‘Full Folly Breakfast’ to ‘Folly Traditional’ afternoon tea. Light lunches available too. £