The Currency
The currency of China is the yuan ($), also known as the kwai or renminbi (RMB), which literally translates as "people's money.” At the time of writing there were $8to the US dollar, $10 to the Euro and $16 to the British Pound Sterling. Paper money was introduced to the world by China in 806 AD and today bank notes come in various amounts, many of which show a portrait of the omnipresent Chairman Mao on the front and famous landscapes from around the country on the back. Denominations are $100 (red), $50 (green), $20 (brown), $10 (blue), $5 (purple or brown), $2 (green) and $1 (green or brown), along with the almost worthless 5, 2 and 1 mao notes (10 mao, also referred to as jiao = $1). The $2 and 2 mao notes are both green and look very similar – remember the lower value one is the smaller of the two. Counterfeiting is rife in China and even the smallest local store may have a UV scanner. While $10 notes are often copied, the one to watch out for is the $100 (see Warning – Scams). The quality of fakes is often high, but generally you can tell by the feel of the money, which is often a little too crunchy to the touch. In Hong Kong the currency is the Hong Kong dollar (HK$) and at the time of writing there were HK$8 to the US$, HK$10 to the Euro and HK$15 to the British Pound Sterling. In Macau the pataca, or Macau dollar (MOP$) is roughly equivalent to the HK$, which can be used throughout the territory.
Banks & Foreign Exchange
The Bank of China (not the Agricultural Bank of China, Construction Bank of China, Industrial Bank of China or any of the other similarly named institutions) is the only bank licensed to exchange foreign currency or travelers' checks. Their opening hours may vary but are generally Monday to Friday from 9 am-noon and 2-5 pm. Upscale hotels can also change money, although their rates tend to be a little worse.
In order to change money you'll need your passport and, often, a sense of patience, as each one of your crisp greenbacks or checks is meticulously inspected. Dollars are by far the most readily accepted exchange currency, followed by Euros and then Pounds Sterling. When China first opened its doors to tourism in the 1980s, foreigners had to use FECs (Foreign Exchange Certificates), which led to the development of blackmarket money changing. Now that tourists use yuan like everybody else, blackmarket money changers are rare – if you are approached with rates that sound too good to be true, steer clear as there will probably be a few fake bills among your wad. Note that you can't change Chinese yuan into other currencies outside of China so budget accordingly and spend all of your cash!
Unlike Mainland China, Hong Kong is overflowing with exchange booths and it's quick and easy to change money. Some of the best rates are generally found on the ground floor of Chungking Mansions on Nathan Road in Kowloon.
Travelers' Checks
Traveler's checks are a safer option many people choose, although you'll pay a small surcharge for each check cashed. Ideally they should be purchased from one of the better-known issuers such as American Express, as lesser known versions may not be accepted in smaller towns. Be sure to note down the serial numbers and keep them and the purchase agreement separate from your checks. Also don't countersign them until you're sure the bank teller is watching.
ATMs & Credit Cards
China has an expanding number of ATMs, which will usually accept Amex, VISA, MasterCard, Maestro and Cirrus, though you'll pay a small flat fee for each withdrawal and, outside of large cities, ATMs may be hard to come by. Also, while plastic seems a safe and easy way to carry your cash, bear in mind that ATMs can be temperamental (or empty), so they should be used as a back-up rather than your principal source of funds. In Hong Kong, ATMs are found on seemingly every corner, although the same precautions apply. For larger purchases, credit cards are often a good way to go. China is increasingly geared up to finding ways for visitors to part with their money and many larger shops, chains or "factory” outlets will accept credit cards, albeit with a surcharge of around 3%.
Money Transfer
If you're really stuck for cash, Western Union (www.westernunion.com) has offices around the country, often found in post offices. The sender has to pay a surcharge and you need to take along your passport to receive funds. Western Union outlets are listed where available.
Costs
While not as cheap as some parts of Asia, China still makes for an inexpensive destination in terms of day-to-day living costs. The four main costs of traveling (apart from the price of airfare to and from your home country) are accommodation, eating, transport, and attraction entry fees. At the most basic, it's possible to live and travel on less than US$20 a day. However, this involves hunting out the cheapest lodgings, eating mainly street food, traveling by local bus or hard seat train (see Getting Around By Rail) and passing up shopping and more expensive tourist sites. A more realistic figure for most travelers would be in the region of US$50-150 a day, which incorporates mid-range hotels, eating in good restaurants, the occasional flight and entry to all the tourist sites you'd want to visit, along with a bit of shopping. If you want a more luxurious five-star tour, plan on a minimum of US$200 a day.
Tipping
Tipping is not an established practice in China and is only expected in places accustomed to dealing with tourists. Thus tourist guides or drivers are to be tipped, as are bellboys and waiters in better hotels. If you are on a group trip, tips are often arranged by the tour leader. Beyond this, any attempts to tip are generally politely refused, no matter how deserving you may feel a person is.
China Post is the national mail carrier and its green and yellow (or green and white) signed branches are found in every town. Here you can send and receivemail and parcels, buy telephone cards and sometimes make international calls. To receive mail, have it addressed to yourself at Post Restante, China Post, City, Province, China – you'll need your passport as ID to collect it. Standard mail to North America or Europe usually takes at least a week, although EMS (express mail service) is quicker and registers your mail. To send a postcard overseas costs $3.2, a letter costs $4.4, and parcels are around $85/US$10 per kilo (2.2lb) for surface mail or $160/US$20 per kilo for airmail. If you want to send a parcel home, you need to leave it unsealed so the items can be checked – there are packing services at post offices. China Post offices are generally open from 8 am to 6 pm, although in smaller settlements opening hours may be shorter, while larger cities sometimes have 24-hour brancheswhere you might also find Western Union money transfer offices (see Money Transfer). The staff will generally be able to decipher the destination, but to be sure you could get the country written in Chinese by your hotel (for a list of countries, see Language, at the end of this guide). If you can't get to a China Post, there are also a few green and yellow mail boxes dotted around some of the bigger cities. In upscale hotels you can buy stamps in the business center and they may send your mail for you too.
Telephones
China Telecom is the nation's telecommunications provider and their blue and white signs are found in all towns, very often next to China Post. Here you can make international calls by a variety of means as well as send faxes, and in some larger cities, check your e-mail. China Telecom business hours are usually from 9 am to 8 pm although larger cities may have 24-hour offices. There are private booths, where you are charged by the minute (around $3 per minute to Europe or North America) , IC phonecards, which slot into public telephones (similar cost), and, cheapest of all, Internet phone (IP) cards where you have to dial an access number, tap in your pin and number and are then connected internationally. You can also buy SIM cards for your cell phone here, but be sure your phone is tri-band and the SIM you purchase enables international calls if you want to make or receive them. If you buy a SIM, you'll then have to purchase "pay as you go” top-up cards as you need them (keeping the old one to show staff when buying a new one makes getting the correct card easier) and note that you generally pay to receive calls. There are also public telephones and private telephone offices found everywhere. If you're staying in a mid-range or above hotel, you'll probably have IDD (International Direct Dialing) from your room, although you'll have to give a deposit of some sort to open the line. Also be aware that the hotel may charge for a call even if you didn't actually get through, and they map slap on a hefty surcharge.
To dial internationally, you'll need to tap in the correct country code (see below) and drop the first zero of the regional code. Within China, for local calls you dial the number without the code (unless calling from a cell phone), only adding the code if you're calling from another city. In Hong Kong and Macau, local calls are free from hotel phones.
International Dialing Codes
Australia – 00 61
Canada – 00 1
China – 00 86
Hong Kong – 00 852
Macau – 00 853
New Zealand – 00 64
UK – 00 44
US – 00 1
The Internet is very popular in China and all towns and cities have Internet cafés (many of which are 24-hr) where you can check your e-mail account, although speeds, standards and rates vary considerably. Recently there have been stricter controls on Internet cafés after a fatal fire in June 2002, although some argue that this was just an excuse to introduce stronger web filtering and thus restrict access to sensitive websites (see Media, Internet, below). Along with firewalls, you currently also have to register your passport to use the Internet in some cities such as Shanghai. In the cheapest cafés ($2) connection may not be that good and you're likely to find yourself surrounded by swarms of adolescent online gamers. Better cafés charge a little more ($5 upwards) and can offer quieter and sometimes quicker access. Many hostels and backpacker cafés also have a few computers for Internet use, and some even have wireless connection if you've brought a laptop. Big hotel business centers are pricier ($20 an hour upwards) but should offer the same speeds and services as their counterparts in other countries. These days many mid-range hotels have Internet connection and maybe even wireless in their guest rooms – look for the @ symbol in the hotel listings in this guide.
The media in China is censored in all its forms, and editors may face jail time if they communicate unauthorized material. The state-run news agency, Xinhua (www.xinhuanet.com/english/), is the principal source of information and their choices about which stories to report and how to do so can be insightful. Hong Kong is a different story, with a wide variety of uncensored media.
Newspapers & Magazines
China's main English language newspaper, the ChinaDaily(www.chinadaily.com.cn/english), offers news reflecting the way the government would like foreigners to view China, along with a handy listings section, and it's available at bigger hotels throughout the country. The main Chinese language national is the People's Daily which is available in English online at www.english.people.com. There are also local English Language newspapers, such as the Shanghai Daily, which predominantly cover city and national news, but also give international round-ups. Magazines are principally Chinese-language and those that are in English are, as ever, heavily censored, but often contain interesting articles nonetheless – try China Today, which was established by Soong Qingling, wife of Dr. Sun Yatsen. In large cities you can find imported, unadulterated international magazines such as National Geographic, Newsweek and Time. Larger cities also have ex-pat-oriented magazines like City Weekend, which contain reviews, entertainment listings and stories that don't always toe the party line. You can find these magazines in bigger hotels and bars, restaurants and cafés popular with ex-pats, although some are available on the Internet – that's magazines (www.thatsmags.com) is one website to look for, with Beijing, Shanghai and Pearl River Delta editions.
Internet
In spite of the mammoth task it appears to be, the Chinese authorities are committed to controlling Internet use and thus they restrict access to certain websites, predominantly political or religious. But even Google was temporarily blocked in 2002and has recently agreed to remove websites that feature sensitive issues from its search results. On my most recent trip, www.wikipedia.com was inaccessible and in Shenzhen icons of police officers come up on screen when you enter a website or chatroom. Incoming digital documents are also monitored through a nationwide firewall that scans for combinations of suspect words. Thus, in terms of real news, the Internet can be a disappointing medium, but it offers insight on how the country operates, and it's worth trying to find what you want, since access levels vary.
Radio
On the radio you'll mostly hear a mix of Canto-pop and Mando-pop (see Music), opera, Taiwanese tracks and Western covers but, beyond music, unless you can understand Chinese, your options will be fairly limited. Some of the bigger cities have English-language stations such as Hit FM (77.7FM) and Easy FM (91.5FM), but otherwise it's a case of searching out the BBC World Service or Voice of America (see www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice and www.voanews.com for frequencies and schedules).
Television
A flick through China's TV channels can be an interesting experience, encompassing Beijing Opera, old war movies, ridiculous gameshows, costume dramas and authorized news. However, for English-language programs, unless you're staying in an upscale hotel, which might have CNN and international movie and sports networks, you'll need to check out CCTV9. This state-run English channel offers culture, news, sports and travel, all of it "approved,” although it can be informative nonetheless. You may even see Canadian Mark Rowswell (aka Dashan, meaning Big Mountain), arguably China's most famous foreigner, who has become a household name thanks to his flawless Mandarin, and still appears on CCTV educational shows. CCTV6 sometimes shows Western movies in English at around 10 pm. In Hong Kong, Pearl TV is the English-language channel and, as with most things in Hong Kong, it is far freer in its programming, with regular Hollywood movies and hit series such as Sex and the City and The West Wing.
If you come to China for any length of time there is a chance you could get sick, and indeed, in winter, half the populace seems to be ill, but a few preparatory steps should help minimize any impact on your trip.
Minor Illnesses
Most people's fear is of stomach illness and in many countries around the world a change in cooking ingredients, oil and water can cause "Delhi belly,” "Montezuma's revenge,” "the Pharaoh's curse,” or whatever you want to call it. However, this is far less common in China, where fresh ingredients are cooked very quickly, at high temperatures. You can further reduce your chances of sickness by a few basic hygiene measures – wash your hands often, keep your nails clean and try not to share eating utensils. Water is another area to watch – drink only boiled or mineral water and brush your teeth with it as well. If you're going well off the beaten track it's worth taking water purification tablets along with you. In spite of precautions you could still end up with an upset stomach. If so, as long as it's nothing too serious, rest, plenty of water and rehydration salts generally resolve the problem. Try not to take diarrhea stoppers unless you have to travel, as they can make the problem linger. If you have longer-lasting symptoms, or blood or mucus in your stool, see a doctor.
Far more likely in this crowded country is a throat or chest infection brought about by a combination of germs from a billion Chinese spitting (see Etiquette), pollution and the difference in temperatures when changing from air-conditioning to sweltering heat. If it's nothing serious, lozenges can keep your throat lubricated; cold and flu remedies and rest should bring about recovery.
Mosquito-Borne Diseases
Mosquito-borne illnesses aren't a serious problem in most parts of China, but malaria and dengue fever do occur in the south, notably in Hainan and southern Yunnan. If you're visiting these regions during the summer, it might be worth taking anti-malarial prophylactics. While malaria is transmitted by the anopheles mosquito, which tends to bite from dusk onwards, the zebra-striped aedes aegpti,which can carry dengue fever, strikes in the daytime. But taking a few precautions should stop you from getting bitten in the first place. Keep covered up from sundown, wear repellent (containing some, but not too much DEET), burn mosquito coils and, if you have the inclination, buy a "hunter” – an electrified fly-swat in the shape of a small tennis racket available in Chinese supermarkets which, in very non-Buddhist fashion, eliminates the bugs.
AIDS, SARS & Bird Flu
While long denied by the authorities, AIDS is a serious problem in China, ever more so as the country relaxes its sexual attitudes. The situation is exacerbated by high levels of prostitution and the refusal of many men to wear condoms (which are easily available), along with increasing drug use in the south. However, the most worrisome of China's health risks are posed by potentially fatal new forms of flu viruses such as SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) and more recently bird flu. Although neither has, as yet, developed into the feared global pandemic, many experts say it is only a matter of time. If there is a suspected outbreak, travel can be seriously affected and then, of course, there's the risk posed by the disease itself, so see www.cdc.gov/travelfor the latest.
Getting Medical Attention
For more serious ailments or injuries, see a doctor, ideally at a hospital in a bigger city, where the chances of an English-speaking doctor (and better facilities) are greater. If there isn't anyone who speaks English, see Language, at the end of this guide. for some useful phrases. For less serious or longer-term problems it's interesting and sometimes beneficial to try some Traditional Chinese Medicine.
Before You Leave
There are a few things you can organize from home to further prepare for your trip. It's worth taking a small first aid kit with you, especially if you'll be heading off the beaten track. The following items make for a good, basic kit:
Secondly, it's also a good idea to have some basic medicinal drugs with you. Although many drugs are easily available over the counter in China, communication may be an issue and in smaller towns you might not find what you need. So taking along antihistamines (for allergic reactions), an all-purpose antibiotic, a basic cold and flu remedy, diarrhea stoppers and painkillers might be useful, but check with your doctor for what's appropriate for you.
Thirdly, while you're not required to have any inoculations to enter China (unless you've come from a yellow fever-infected area), check that you are up-to-date with your vaccinations, particularly hepatitis A and B, tetanus, typhoid, tuberculosis. And if you plan to spend a lot of time with animals or out in the wilds, a rabies shot isn't a bad idea. Register at www.tripprep.com for an up-to-date list of recommended travel vaccines.
Restrooms in China are a far cry from North American norms, although things are no longer quite as bad as they used to be, especially in the big cities. Public restrooms are the lowest of the low, always squat rather than seat and often without partitions between users. And then there's the smell, which can be stomach-churning. In spite of all of these indignities there is often one more to add – having to pay (2-5 mao) to use some public toilets. You'll be able to buy tissues from the attendant since the restrooms obviously don't have them. Just one more point of note – the actual toilet is often just a trough, above which you squat and it's advisable to remove your sunglasses before you do so; many are the times as a tourleader that I heard shrieks from my guests as their expensive shades dropped into the trough, and some of them actually retrieved them! Of course if you've gotta' go, you've gotta' go, but whenever possible use restrooms in your hotel, a restaurant or a shopping center.
When compared to most Western countries China comes out as very safe, especially when you take into account the vast disparity between rich and poor. However, this isn't to say that crime is non-existent; indeed petty theft is increasingly common, although violent crime against tourists is almost unheard of. A few basic precautions should help you stay trouble-free. First, keep any valuables you have to take with you in a money-belt worn under your clothing. Second, be aware of your personal space (especially in crowded or heavily touristed areas) and if you're concerned about your other valuables such as your camera, keep them in front of you. Finally, avoid walking on unlit streets alone late at night.
If something does happen, then a few precautionary steps should at least minimize damages. Make photocopies of your passport including the visa page, insurance documents and tickets and leave one copy with friends or relatives and keep another with you, in a separate location from the actual documents. Always keep the aforementioned and your cash, credit cards and travelers' checks safely stowed in a money belt, or, if you don't need them, leave them in your hotel safe. Divide your money, only keeping a small amount out for your day's spending and keep an emergency stash of US dollars. If you have something stolen and want to make an insurance claim, you'll need a police report (see Insurance for details).
Warning – Scams
While China is a reasonably safe place to travel, there are those who will perceive you as a cashpot and who have invented ingenious ways of helping you to part with your money. The most common scam in China involves a couple of young women or teenage girls approaching you on the pretense of wanting to practice their English, which is invariably fairly good. After some chatting, they'll invite you either to an art display (usually owned by their "uncle”) or a café. In the case of the former you'll be pressured into buying overpriced art, while the latter will lead to you paying for the girls' food and drinks at inflated prices. If you refuse, the doors may be closed and a few heavies might appear, although I've never heard any reports of violence occurring – indeed if you stick to your guns, chances are they'll back off. But best of all is just to avoid the scenario. Another popular trick is claiming the bill you have given as payment is a fake and then demanding another, thereby sticking you with a forged note. This is particularly prevalent with $100 bills at phone card stalls – don't let your note out of sight.
A more alarming but less common scam is being offered some food or drink on a long-distance bus or train journey by someone you've been chatting with for a while. Later you wake up with a groggy head and no valuables. However, I must temper this tale with the fact that I've been traveling around China on public transport for years and have never fallen victim to this scam, or met anyone first-hand who has. There is a balance to be struck between caution and closing yourself off from the predominantly good and honest people of this land.
Emergency Services & the Public Security Bureau
If you need emergency assistance, the following numbers are applicable throughout the mainland: Police (tel.110); Fire (tel.119); Ambulance (tel.120) – see Emergency & Medical Services for the relevant numbers in Hong Kong and Macau. Although there should be an English speaker available at these numbers, try to have a Chinese speaker make the call. The police have far more extensive powers than their contemporaries in the West and while individual officers may be helpful to foreigners, it's probably best not to cross their path unless you have to, which you will if you have something stolen and need a police report – ask for the jing cha (police). The Public Security Bureau (PSB) deals with issues relating to visas (see Extending your Visa) but can also be contacted in emergencies – see individual chapters for PSB locations and telephone numbers.
Begging
While beggars are not as prevalent in China as in some other Asian or South American countries, as more and more rural Chinese flood to the cities, it is an increasingly serious problem. It's worth working out what your feelings are and how you will respond in advance as this will make situations easier to deal with. You may feel that begging begets begging and thus choose not to give anything to anyone, thereby hopefully instilling the concept that foreigners are not endless bags of money, and making the journey easier for those who come after you. Or you might choose to give food or pens rather than money, although this still ultimately leads to a form of dependency. As a tour leader, I once visited a small village that had probably never seen another foreigner. The people were a little bewildered initially but soon warmed up to be friendly and hospitable. As we were leaving, a member of my group gave a few bananas to the local kids, a seemingly innocuous gesture. On my return to this village a few months later with a different group we were immediately besieged by children demanding bananas!
If you want to be left alone, giving may seem like the easy option, but in some cases this may actually end up attracting more beggars to pounce on the "soft target.” And if you do give, the big question is then, to whom do you give? The cute little girl who tugs relentlessly at your leg or the old man passed out on the sidewalk – often those who are the most needy are also the least likely to benefit. And this is to say nothing of organized begging syndicates that sometimes put children out on the streets to work in order to generate sympathy and thus revenue. So, heart-rending as it is, the simplest solution may actually be not to give to anyone, instead making a charitable donation of time or money.
Charitable Organizations
China is the most populous country in the world and, while there are plenty of people who seem to be getting rich in the cities, there are an awful lot more who struggle to feed themselves. Access to clean water, healthcare, education and legal representation is far from universal and what is a small amount of money to you can make a big difference to those in need. There are worthwhile organizations mentioned in the individual city accounts (look for the Putting Something Back callouts), and the following registered charities can also provide information about other projects and will gladly accept donations.
Photography
The old adage, take only photographs, leave only footprints, is a good one. This said, you should only take pictures of people who are happy to have their photo taken and also be aware that it's forbidden to take photographs at certain sites deemed of military importance (airports, bridges), and at some tourist locales like the Terracotta Warriors (although this rule is flagrantly ignored by many visitors). In popular tourist areas you may be asked to pay to take people's pictures – it's up to you whether you decide to do this, but bear in mind that, if you do, travelers who follow in your footsteps will certainly have to pay. The best way to get pictures of locals, though, is to strike up a conversation (or some kind of interaction) and offer to send them a copy of their picture. Make sure you fulfill your promise. For pictures of people, often you'll get the best picture by taking (or pretending to take) the posed photograph, then snapping another immediately afterwards, when the person has assumed a more natural posture or expression. While it's not always possible to coordinate your visit with the perfect time to take pictures, it's worth noting that early morning and late afternoon tend to offer the best light conditions. Mornings are also the time to catch the best street life, and many markets are at their busiest before the heat of day arrives.
When your camera memory stick is full you can take it to a photo developing shop and they'll put the images onto a CD (or print them) for you. For those who haven't joined the digital revolution, camera film is readily available and cheaper in China than at home. It's worth stocking up in reputable stores though, as stalls outside tourist sites are more expensive and the film may have suffered from sunlight exposure. Regardless of where you buy your film, you should always check the expiration date. There are also plenty of places, including Kodak stores, to get your pictures developed, but if you plan to have a lot of pictures processed, try one as a sample before committing yourself to rolls of washed-out photos. If you're a keen photographer and want taking pictures to be a major part of your trip then it's worth considering a photographic tour. Grasshopper (www.grasshopper adventures.com) runs excellent trips accompanied by Ewen Bell, an acclaimed photographer whose pictures are found in this book.
Etiquette
China's long history, so removed from Western civilization has left a minefield of different social customs that can initially be baffling to foreign visitors. Fortunately, the Chinese see foreigners as very different from themselves and in most situations cultural faux pas will be ignored. However, that isn't to say you shouldn't try to conform when in China – if you do your actions will be both noticed and appreciated.
Saving Face
While the Chinese often find Western self-flattery unseemly, they are inherently a proud people and one of the driving forces in Chinese etiquette is the concept of "face,” which can be likened to dignity. Activities such as arguing in public will result in loss of face for both parties and thus are to be avoided at all costs. Nevertheless, in a country where private space is limited and summers are swelteringly hot, tempers can fray and you may well come across furious screaming matches out on the street – once they've started it's the one that can hold on the longest who will save most face. Face can also mean that a request or opinion (especially from a more senior employee or elder) won't be challenged, because it will cause loss of face. Thus contentious issues are often avoided or, when they are brought up, the "right” responses are given no matter what the party concerned actually intends to do.
Do's & Don'ts
Eating throws up a host of potential pitfalls for the visitor. While breaking wind, burping, sometimes spitting and generally making as much noise and mess as possible are all acceptable, other seemingly innocuous activities, such as using a toothpick, are not. If you wish to pick your teeth you should do so by hiding your mouth with your other hand. Chopsticks also offer more than just the problem of picking up your food with them (see Chopsticks callout). Likewise, drinking has a few associated protocols; toasts are so important that at formal dinners it's rude to drink without one, and you should try to keep your companions' glasses full, for they will surely do the same for you.
When meeting people, particularly in business, it is customary to make a small bow while clasping one hand over the other fist, although Chinese familiar with meeting Westerners may well just plunge straight in with a handshake. When presented with anything, you should receive it with both hands and, while a business card should be scrutinized before being carefully tucked away, a gift should be opened at a later time when not in the presence of its giver.
Studying & Working in China
Since China opened up in the early 1980s, people have been curious to come and experience life in the Middle Kingdom. Many come here to study traditional arts or the language and to teach English but, since China has found its economic feet, more and more people are coming here to do business (see Business Travel below).
Study
If you want to study the language, universities are the best bet – your local embassy should be able to provide you with a list of suitable universities, but there are also a host of other types of schools, including some where you teach English (see below) in return for your lessons. There are also schools that use traditional arts (such as calligraphy, painting, kung fu and tai chi – see Martial Arts for the latter two) as vehicles to teach the language. Wherever you choose to study, you'll get better results if you fully immerse yourself and cut yourself off from the English-language world. There are language and cultural studies schools mentioned in the relevant chapters, although some of these are aimed at short-term visitors. Good websites for cultural studies and language studies include www.educasian.com and www.worldlinkedu.com. Officially enrolled students with school identity cards will enjoy substantial discounts at all major sights.
Teaching English
In order to legally teach you need a working visa, which can be obtained with the school's help, although some places will let you carry on teaching with a standard tourist visa. Good schools might require you to have a degree or TEFL qualification, but plenty of places just want a foreign face to look good for the parents. Salaries typically range from US$400 to US$800 per month and hours might be as few as 15 or as many as 30 a week. Many places offer accommodation, food and maybe even a bicycle as part of the bargain!
If you're serious about your teaching, then it's best to head for a high school or one of the major private schools where you should find all the teaching materials and staff support you need; some of the cowboy operations will just send you into a classroom of mixed-age, mixed-ability children with no preparation whatsoever – "OK kids, today we're going to learn about Christmas.…”
Other Jobs
If you're posted to China by an international company, then many of your relocation needs are likely to be met by a specialist company that can help arrange moving, housing and domestic care. If, on the other hand, you arrive by yourself with no prospects, just a burning desire to work in China, do not despair. It's fairly easy to pick up some kind of work, perhaps teaching English, to support yourself in the beginning until you find the job you're after. Expat websites such as that's magazines (see Information Sources) have job listings, as does China Daily. Speaking some Chinese will improve your prospects. In all work categories the highest wages are found in the big cities, but obviously the cost of living is also higher.
Business Travel
As China opens itself up to more foreign trade, the number of business visitors is increasing. Opportunities are predominantly in joint venture companies and, with such great potential for both manufacture and consumption, it's no wonder the race is on to grab a piece of the pie. However, doing business in China is not the same as in Europe or North America and many newcomers find these differences frustrating. The Chinese are master business tacticians and, while they are gracious and hospitable hosts, they are operating in their own country and have a few moves up their sleeve. Thus, the better you're prepared for your trip, the more profitable it is likely to be and, to this end, the tips below should help.
Business Do's & Don't's
Family Travel
Traveling as a family is becoming increasingly popular and can be a thoroughly rewarding experience if you plan your trip well. One of the most important things to think about is balancing your itinerary well so that you're not too rushed and can take in sights that appeal to all the family. While you might be fascinated by Taoist temples and historic monuments, visit more than a few with young kids and you may have a mutiny on board the family ship. The Chinese place great importance on children (even more since the one-child policy went into effect) and traveling as a family unit you will be warmly welcomed everywhere you go. There are some great places to visit as a family, particularly Yangshuo and Hong Kong, and the other cities have attractions kids will love, from movies to theme parks and shows. Each chapter of this guide has a "For Families” section detailing a few good options. Entry into most major sights is half-price for children under 3.9 feet high. If you'd like to go on a tour with other families, there are tour companies that run trips with itineraries which take the needs of the whole family into account (see Specialized Tours).To enjoy some time away from the kids (or vice versa …), international chain hotels often have babysitting facilities, starting from around $30 (US$4) an hour. Baby strollers can be a problem since access to sights, restaurants and hotels isn't always easy and sidewalks can be decidedly uneven. If you're traveling with a baby, you'll find formula, baby food and disposable nappies available at supermarkets.
Adoption
The enormous population, historic preference for boys over girls (see Gender Imbalance), and the one-child policy have all contributed to the large number of orphaned children in China. In 1993 several Western countries signed the Hague Convention on inter-country adoption and, later the same year, China instituted formal regulations to allow foreigners to adopt Chinese babies. Since then over 50,000 babies have been adopted, 80% of them by Americans. The children come from all over the country, but the White Swan Hotel in Guangzhou is where many adoptions actually take place. If you would like to adopt a child, www.childrenshopeint.org and www.travelchinaguide.com/essential/adoption offer detailed information on the subject.
Disabled Travelers
Although there are a great number of disabled people in China, provision for the disabled is still very limited. As the country's economy booms, many cities resemble construction sites and there are countless hazards, such as uneven paving, bridges and gaping holes to negotiate. Public transport is seldom wheelchair-friendly. Wheelchairs are available from hospitals and at some tourist locations, but you can't count on these. Ensure that you bring all required specialist equipment and medication with you. Your trip will also be made smoother if you find out as much as possible about where you're going and what the facilities are before your trip. Hong Kong and, to a lesser extent, Macau, offer better provisions for disabled visitors, which are detailed in the tourist office's Hong Kong Access Guide for Disabled Visitors and on the web at www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/travelneeds/disabled.index. Certain hotel chains, including Holiday Inn, the Hyatt, the Sheraton, the Shangri-La and the Marriott, have facilities and rooms suitable for disabled people, although it's worth checking before you book. Listed hotels with rooms suitable for the disabled are marked DA, while those with wheelchair access mention this in the description. Going on an organized trip can alleviate some of the planning, but if you want to go it alone, the following organizations can help:
Female Travelers
When compared with many other developing countries, travel for women in China presents few problems. Although you may well be stared at, this is invariably more of a curious gaze than an intimidating ogle. Indeed female travelers are more likely to be ignored than hassled. This said, in the far northwest more vigilance is advised and, as with anywhere, you'd be wise to take a few basic precautions, such as avoiding unlit areas late at night. Dress for women is fairly liberal and in the cities mini-skirts and skimpy tops are commonplace, though in rural areas you may feel more comfortable in conservative clothing.
Gay Travelers
Although homosexuality was long regarded a foreign peculiarity it is increasingly prominent in China, and loosely tolerated, if officially denied and illicit. The big cities have gay bars where foreigners may be approached, but be aware that public displays of affection are likely to cause a stir. Check out www.gay.com or www.utopia-asia.com for more on China's gay scene.
Electrical Current
Mainland and Macau electricity supply is 220V through flat two-pin and angled flat three-pin plugs, although you'll also find round three-pin sockets! In Hong Kong the voltage is 200V and plugs are of the square three-pin variety (the same as the UK). Thus, a travel adaptor is a good idea.
Time Zone
Remarkable as it seems, all of China follows the same time zone, eight hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 13 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, 16 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time and two hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time.
Weights & Measures
China predominantly uses the metric system, most obvious as kilometers for road distances (one km=0.62 mile). Market goods such as fruit are measured by the jin, which is half a kilogram (1.1 lb) and cloth is measured by the meter (3.28 ft).