China is a vast country with an ever-improving transport network, especially between principal cities, but it is also still a developing country and, while some services are ultra-modern, others are super-slow. Some regions are ruled by the road, while others are served better by rail. Travel by any mode of transport tends to be good value, especially when the distances covered are considered, although bus is usually the cheapest and flying the most expensive. The duration and scope of your itinerary and the amount of money you have to spend are deciding factors in how you travel. To get to smaller or more out of the way places you may have to take a bus (often from a railhead town), although for anything longer than a few hours, if it's an option, the train is preferable, unless you have the money to fly. Even if money is no object, I'd recommend at least one long distance train journey for the experience. Indeed, implicit in the term "traveling” is the journey itself and, for some, getting from A to B is the best part of the adventure. China has an abundance of local transport options which, while often uncomfortable, give you real insight into the lives of the people. Wherever you're planning to travel, unless you speak Mandarin, be sure to take along your destination written in Chinese (see the Chinese language section at the end of this guide). While pronouncing the name may seem like a simple process, the tones of the language and the plethora of similar-sounding place names can cause confusion.
Below are some sample fares (quoted in US dollars) in order to give a rough idea of the costs of different modes of transport.
By Air
China has an extensive flight network incorporating hundreds of frequently served airports. There are several regional airlines (China Southern, China Southwestern, etc.), many of which are subdivisions of Air China, the national carrier. Most towns of any significance have a branch of the regional airline that can issue tickets and many hotels have travel agents who can book them for a small commission. In larger cities you'll find CAAC offices where you can buy tickets for most airlines and often get buses to the airport. Airports can be close to the city center or tens of miles away so check when you purchase your tickets. While Chinese air travel doesn't have a particularly good safety track record, things have definitely improved, both in terms of pilot ability and aircraft quality. That said, flying in China is a very different experience, from the frequent turbulence to the "lucky seat lottery,” although delays seem to be a worldwide feature!
Airline Details
By Rail
Rail is generally my favorite mode of travel in any country and China is no exception. More comfortable than by road and cheaper than air, train travel affords you some time to reflect on your travels as the countryside unfolds through the window to the gentle (and sometimes abrupt) clackety clack of the tracks below. It also offers the opportunity to meet locals (albeit, on occasion, too closely for comfort). And it can give you a look at the conflicts of modern China; the system is authoritarian in essence, with its smartly dressed, stern staff and regulated systems, but these days you can hire VCD players (some trains even have individual TVs in first-class sleeper compartments) and buy tacky toys along the way. Stations usually have shops and stalls selling all the goods you'll need for a long journey and there are dining carriages on many sleeper services along with platform snacks along the way. You'll also find checkrooms for luggage at stations and some stations have designated waiting rooms for first-class passengers (see Classes, below). China has an extensive railway network that covers all the major cities, now including Lhasa, which is the end destination of the high-altitude, ultra-modern Tibet line, part of the government's program to develop the west.
Categories of Train
Trains are categorized according to their speed. The new D trains are the fastest, with Z trains hot on their heels, followed by T and then K trains, which are still fairly speedy. Un-lettered trains are the slowest of the bunch and are worth avoiding if you have a long distance to cover, as they also tend to be older and thus less comfortable and clean. The faster the train, the more expensive the tickets will be.
Classes
Trains are divided into four classes and any train may have all or only one of these classes, depending on its route and speed. All classes have restrooms (though these are often squat and can get pretty filthy), a supply of hot water for tea, and generally some kind of food and drink provision, usually in the form of a buffet car and food trolleys.
The bottom of the scale is "hard seat” which is, on the oldest trains, literally that, just a hard wooden seat, though most of these have been replaced by (still fairly rigid) cushioned seats. This is where you'll get to mingle with the masses but, when you consider the price, it's really not that bad, although it can be taxing for longer journeys. Soft seat is the next level up and the seats and clientele reflect the jump in price. Soft-seat carriages are sometimes double-decker. Hard sleeper is the most commonly used class for longer trips and accordingly gets booked up the quickest. Although the name doesn't quite conjure up images of luxury, it's actually fairly comfortable. Here you'll have one of six bunks fitted into booths along one side of the train. Although the bottom level is the most expensive, followed by the middle level and then the top, there is debate among travelers as to which is best. The bottom obviously offers the easiest access and is the roomiest, but you'll have people sitting on your bed during the day. You get a little less room in the middle but more privacy, and on the top you feel away from it all, although you have very little space to savor this. Soft sleeper is the top of the line, where you'll reside in a private four-bunk compartment. As with hotels, the comfort of the train also depends on its age, thus hard sleeper on a new train can be almost as good as soft sleeper on an old one The most modern trains on major routes (Beijing to Shanghai, for example) have a new "business” class where you get a two-room compartment complete with restroom and TV! In the sleeper classes you're provided with clean bedding and a flask of hot water per compartment. On entering the train you'll need to exchange your ticket for a metal or plastic tag, which enables the attendant to make sure you get off at the right station. Indeed, you'll often be awakened a good hour before the train is due so they can turn your bed around for the next passenger. Although the incidence of crime isn't high, it's worth securing your luggage to a rail with a padlock and keeping an eye on your possessions
Buying a Ticket
Buying a ticket from the train station can be a confusing and time-consuming business, so many travelers elect to purchase them through an agent (often found in your hotel), for a small surcharge. For frequently served shorter routes it's easy enough to just arrive at the station and get a ticket for the next train. However, for longer journeys, especially during peak times or on popular routes, trains can be completely booked for days, so if you know your schedule it's worth buying your ticket on arrival in the city. If you do buy your ticket at the station, make sure you take along the written Chinese name for your destination (see language boxes in individual chapters), ask which line to stand in, then get ready for some pushing, culminating in the frantic decision-making process as the masses behind try to oust you from your number one spot! Some stations have designated foreigners' ticket windows, which are worth seeking out as the staff might speak English and the lines are often shorter. See the Language section at the end of this guide for the train classes in Chinese.
By Road
China's road network has undergone massive investment in the last decade and some journey times have been dramatically reduced as a result. The efficiency of the government is undeniable in making progress here. While environmental action committees and protests are often the norm when a new road is proposed in Europe, in China it's a simple case of get out of the way or face the consequences. This may show little concern for human rights, but it is certainly an efficient way of getting the job done and roads are finished in a fraction of the time it would take elsewhere in the world (safety considerations aside). New toll highways have been built between major cities and roads have often superseded former modes of transport (especially the rivers) as the way to get around. However, China remains an enormous country and, although some areas (the Pearl River Delta and the Yangzi Basin) have been dissected by new expressways in recent times, much of rural China is still connected by unbelievably bumpy dirt tracks, which get washed away every rainy season. Journeys on these routes can be crowded, uncomfortable, frustrating and scary. But, if you're not in a hurry, they are another great way to see the country and come face-to-face with the locals, baskets of chickens and all.
Buses
While seldom as comfortable as the train, buses are generally cheaper, more frequent and often quicker for shorter routes. In remote or mountainous areas buses may be the only transport option. Intercity buses are generally categorized as putong (ordinary) class or kuai (express). The latter use expressways where available and are thus faster, tend to be more comfortable and are around double the price.There are also sleeper buses that link cities across the country, sometimes taking upwards of 30 hours. Typically, these are rickety old affairs with flat bunk beds, but a new breed of upmarket express sleeper buses has recently come into being, with DVD players, fully reclinable chairs and restrooms. On shorter routes you might also find shuttle minibuses, which cost a little more than standard buses and are a little quicker once on the road, but you'll have to wait for them to fill up before leaving. With local services your luggage may go on the roof or have to be squeezed in with you, but on more modern vehicles it will probably be stowed beneath and you'll receive a tag to reclaim it. It's worth taking some food on long-distance services as break stops can be erratic, but on rural routes there may be a wealth of local snacks to choose from as passengers get on and off at small market towns. There are usually shops selling snacks at bus stations and there may also be luggage storage facilities.
Buying a Ticket
In smaller towns and cities there may only be one bus station but in larger urban areas there can often be several, which serve different regions, as well as express stations in the center. For short hops you can generally just show up and get on the next bus, but for longer journeys it's worth buying your ticket in advance or arriving in the morning as buses are less frequent in the afternoons, and often finish at sundown during winter, unless there are sleeper services. Once you're at the station you may be faced with a daunting number of ticket windows but staff are generally helpful.
Car Rental
Forbidden until recently, car rental options are still limited in China unless you're a resident with a Z visa (and a valid license from your home country), in which case you can obtain the Chinese license necessary to drive here. Otherwise, your options are restricted to hiring a car with driver, which can be arranged through major international chains such as Avis (www.avischina.com) and Hertz (www.hertz.com.cn) or local companies – rates start from around US$40 a day.
Hong Kong and Macau are exceptions to the rule and you can easily rent a self-drive car in either – exploring Macau's coastal roads in the Cub and Moke jeeps they offer is great fun. If you live on the mainland and choose to drive, it soon becomes apparent that the rules of the road revolve around size – the bigger the vehicle the more you need to avoid it. Outside of the cities you need to pay particular attention at night as many drivers seem oblivious to the fact their cars have lights!
By Boat
Rivers and canals used to be one of the primary transport means for both people and freight in China, but these days they have been replaced by road, rail and air. Conversely, for visitors, river travel still offers one of the best ways to see idyllic rural China, with some of the country's most spectacular scenery as a backdrop. Of particular note are the Three Gorges, Guangxi's Li River and the Grand Canal. While you can organize most cruises while you're in China, if you want to guarantee a quality boat to cruise the Three Gorges it's worth booking from home – see the websites listed under Booking from Overseas. There are also ferries between Hong Kong and Macau and to Pearl River Delta destinations.
City Travel
Subway
These days many of China's major cities, including Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Shanghai and Beijing, have subway systems which are sometimes known as MTRs (Mass Transit Railways) and these offer a convenient, easy and inexpensive way to get around these cities. You usually buy tickets ($2-10) from machines, which have English instructions, and stations are marked (and sometimes announced) in English. Closest subway stations are given where appropriate throughout the book.
Bus
Every Chinese city has a cheap and extensive bus network and this often forms the backbone of the urban transport system. However, the fact that destinations are generally only marked in Chinese, and that buses can be very crowded and often aren't air-conditioned makes the subway preferable where it's an option. You normally pay ($1-2) onboard and often need to have exact change. Show the driver your destination written in Chinese and, if you're lucky, he or she will give you the nod when it's time to get off. Bus numbers are given where appropriate throughout the book.
Taxi
Taxis are the easiest way to get around China's cities. Although drivers seldom speak English, as long as you have your destination written in Chinese (see the language boxes) you won't go too far wrong. Flagfall rates vary from $4 to $12.5 for the first two km (1.2 miles) and then rise in increments beyond this. Make sure that the driver uses the meter ("da biao”). In some cities you'll also find motorcycle taxis, which are a speedy way to get through the clogged city streets but it can be difficult to get a fair price – see individual chapter listings for details.
Cycle Rickshaw
China still has cycle rickshaws and pedicabs, although in some of its cities these are exclusively the preserve of tourists and you need to bargain hard before you set out on your journey. If you're in a hurry they are hardly ideal, but to soak up the pace of the city they can make a fun change. See individual cities for approximate rates.
Bicycle
Although being rapidly superseded by scooters and cars, the bicycle is the traditional mode of transport in China. In spite of modernization, China has over half a billion cycles – by far the highest ownership in the world. Although cycling around the big cities can initially seem a little daunting, there are often designated cycle lanes and, as long as you move with the masses, you'll be fine. Bikes can be rented in most cities and offer an excellent way to get around, particularly in Hangzhou, Suzhou and the countryside. Rates vary from as little as $5 for a day, to $50 an hour from some upmarket hotels.
Ferry
The cities are also often best seen from the water – Hong Kong, Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou are testaments to this. Although seldom very practical (with the exception of Hong Kong's Star Ferry), ferries present a different side of the city and, if you're short of funds, they can offer a cheap alternative to a river or harbor cruise.