Calamari in Umido

For this dish we use the very small baby squid at the start of their season. They are so tender and sweet, and perfect cooked this way as they almost melt when you eat them. If no small squid are available larger can be used but the bodies are best split open and scored with a sharp knife – on the diagonal first one way then the other so as to produce a diamond pattern – then cut into small strips so that when they cook they roll up into small tubes.

Serves 2

6 small squid, about 100g each, skinned and cleaned (with tentacles)

100ml olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced on a mandoline

½ dried bird’s eye chilli

10 cherry tomatoes (preferably Datterini), peeled

1 tablespoon shredded flat-leaf parsley

½ lemon

salt

Rinse the squid thoroughly and dry on kitchen paper.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan with a little salt, add the sliced garlic and chilli, and fry gently for a few minutes until the edges of the garlic just start to take on a golden colour.

Add the whole small squid with their tentacles and the peeled tomatoes and continue cooking, gently squeezing the tomatoes with a fork so as to release some of their juices. After 2–3 minutes the squid will have turned from translucent to pure white and a lovely emulsion will have formed from the oil and tomato juices.

Remove from the heat. Add the parsley and a good squeeze of lemon and season with salt to taste. Stir well, then serve immediately.

Calamari in Umido