capers
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Capparis spinosa L. (Capparidaceae); kappers (Afrikaans); ci shan gan (Chinese); câpres (French); Kapern (German); kiari (Hindi); cappero (Italian); keepaa (Japanese); melada (Malay); alcaparras (Portuguese); alcaparro (Spanish); kebere (Turkish)
DESCRIPTION Capers are the small unopened flower buds, usually preserved in brine. The young fruits (caperberries) are also used. Both the buds and the fruits have a pungent, slightly bitter, sour and salty taste and a fragrant and fruity aroma.
THE PLANT It is thought to be a hybrid between C. sicula and C. orientalis that has been maintained as a cultigen for many centuries.1 The spreading to somewhat erect woody shrub has slightly thorny stipules and fleshy leaves. The attractive but short-lived flowers have a central stalked ovary surrounded by numerous stamens that develops into a fleshy berry.1
ORIGIN The caper bush is indigenous to the Mediterranean region, including Spain, France, Italy, Greece and Turkey.1 Remains of capers have been found in several prehistoric archaeological sites (dating back to 9000 BC) and the product has been recorded in ancient texts (e.g. Greek and Roman) as a popular condiment and food item.2
CULTIVATION Capers are collected from wild plants but are mostly grown commercially from seeds or cuttings. Germination rates are low and cuttings are not easy to root.2 Plants survive extreme summer aridity and can be productive for 25 or more years. Regular pruning is essential and irrigation and fertilizer application may result in improved yields, from as low as 1 kg up to 9 kg per plant per year.2 Spain, Italy, France, Turkey and Morocco are the main producers.2
HARVESTING Buds are hand-picked before sunrise, before they open – a very labour-intensive process. They are pickled in white wine vinegar or in brine (Sicilian capers), not only to preserve them but also to remove the bitter taste.2 The salt is washed off before use. The ripe berries are picked, stalks and all. These are later convenient when the fruits are eaten by hand.
CULINARY USES Capers are an important spice and condiment with a sharp, piquant and salty-sour flavour. They are used for caper sauce and many other sauces (tartare, remoulade, ravigote, vinaigrette, sauce gribiche and tarragon sauce) that accompany salads, rice, pasta, eggs, seafood and meat dishes (especially mutton and lamb).2,3 Capers have become popular as a garnish for pizzas, canapés and cheeses, and as a cocktail snack. Sicilian pasta colle sarde has capers as important ingredient (with sardines, parsley, pine nuts, raisins and tomatoes).
FLAVOUR COMPOUNDS The pungent taste is due to sulphur compounds, mainly methylglucosinolate (glucocapperin) that is enzymatically converted (by myrosinase) to methyl isothiocyanate).4 The flavour is also ascribed to numerous volatile compounds, including cinnamaldehyde, benzaldehyde, ethyl hexadecanoate, trans-nerolidol, 4-terpineol and linalool.4 Compounds with a raspberry-like flavour have also been reported, including α- and β-ionone, frambinone, frambinylalcohol and zingerone.4
NOTES Nasturtium, marigold and other types of flower buds are sometimes used as inferior substitutes for capers.
1. Inocencio, C., Rivera, D., Obón, M.C., Alcaraz, F., Barreña, J.-A. 2006. A systematic revision of Capparis section Capparis (Capparaceae). Annals of the Missouri Botanical Garden 93: 122–149.
2. Sozzi, G.O. 2001. Cape bush: Botany and horticulture. Horticultural Reviews 27: 125–185.
3. Rivera, D., Inocencio, C., Obón, M.C., Alcaraz, F. 2003. Review of food and medicinal uses of Capparis L. subgenus Capparis (Capparidaceae). Economic Botany 57: 515–534.
4. Romeo, V., Ziino, M., Giuffrida, D., Condurso, C., Verzera, A. 2007. Flavour profile of capers (Capparis spinosa L.) from the Eolian Archipelago by HS-SPME/GC–MS. Food Chemistry 101: 1272–1278.