The word “salad” comes from the ancient word for “salt,” so the technique of salting ingredients to eat raw is rooted in early food preparation. When vegetables with a high water content come into contact with salt — exactly what happens when you dress them — they release their water. This both dilutes the dressing and prevents the greens from absorbing its flavors. If, however, you salt these vegetables before they go into salad, you can extract some of their water beforehand and make them firmer, crisper, and more flavorful. Their appearance also changes and looks almost translucent, partially cooked. These foods in particular benefit from salting:
Cabbage When slaws are made with salted cabbage, they are noticeably less watery, and stay crisp and fresh a few days longer. Put sliced cabbage in a colander, sprinkle with salt (about 1 tablespoon for 6 cups cabbage), and set aside to drain. After about an hour, rinse, drain, and gently squeeze dry, then proceed with the recipe.
Cucumbers Supermarket varieties especially benefit from salting. First peel, seed (see page 49), and slice them. Then use the same procedure as for cabbage. For extra crispness, rinse, then wring dry in a towel after salting; otherwise, just pat them dry after rinsing.
Radishes Sliced radishes may be salted like cabbage and cucumbers (they become milder and crisper) but only for an absolute maximum of 45 minutes, or they will become limp.
Onions As with radishes, you can make onions milder and crisper by salting them, either directly or in a saltwater bath (about 1 tablespoon salt per quart water). Let sit for a half hour or longer, then rinse and dry before using.
Tomatoes Lightly salting tomatoes improves their flavor and tightens their flesh, but they are fragile. Use less salt (about 1 teaspoon per pound tomatoes) and leave them for only 15 minutes or so. Put salted chopped tomatoes in a colander (set over a bowl if you want to trap the tomato water for another use, like that on page 98). Salted tomato slices and wedges work best put directly on towels or spread out on wire racks.
Lettuces and Greens Don’t salt — or dress — lettuce and greens until right before serving. They wilt fast and never recover.