Just because we have access to tomatoes all year doesn’t mean they’re always good. Some people only eat fresh tomatoes in season, and stick to canned the rest of the year. If you can’t hold out, try to find those with at least a bit of tomatoey aroma and some give in the texture when gently squeezed. Let any tomato ripen at room temperature, until they are soft and deeply colored. And never refrigerate them (this makes them mealy) unless you feel you must chill them down for a salad. If that’s the case, no more than an hour, please.