Kimchi

Makes: 8 servings

Time: About 2 hours, mostly unattended

M V

You can easily find kimchi in refrigerated jars at supermarkets, but making it yourself gives you far more control over the level of spiciness. Plus some kimchi contains fish sauce and/or fermented shrimp; making your own allows you to keep it vegetarian. Refrigerated, this will keep for about a week.

Other vegetables that work: all scallions (use about 50, total, split in half lengthwise), or 2 to 3 pounds of daikon, black radish, or turnip, peeled and shredded.

• 1 head green, Savoy, or Napa cabbage (about 2 pounds), separated into leaves
• About ½ cup coarse salt
• 20 scallions, including most of the green, chopped
• 1 tablespoon red chile flakes, or more to taste
• ¼ cup soy sauce
• ¼ cup minced garlic
• ¼ cup sugar

1. Layer the cabbage leaves in a colander, sprinkling a little salt between layers. Let sit over a bowl for at least 2 hours. When the cabbage is wilted, rinse and dry.
2. Mix the scallions, red chile flakes, soy sauce, garlic, and sugar together in a large bowl. Chop the cabbage and toss with the spice mixture. Serve immediately. Or cover and refrigerate for up to a week; it will become stronger every day.